Sand River
10-40 mins
Mostly sunny
Sandstone
Introduction
Bouldering at Sand River will likely be extensive. To date most of the problems are at the base of existing steep climbing areas.
Access
The developed crags are on publicly owned Forestry and Crown land. The public land extends as far south as the Panopticon, but further south than that it's private. The range of hills to the north of the Colosseum is the southern boundary of the Buckland Military Training Area - stay out!
Please don't jeopardise access:
* Don't explore, climb or develop in the Military Training Area, or on private land without previously negotiating access with the landowners
* Don't block the roads, it really pisses people off. And don't leave any valuables in your car, as theft and vandalism here is a distinct possibility (although it hasn't happened yet).
* There are many obvious bird roosts on the cliffs, and Peregrine Falcons and Wedge Tail Eagles frequent the area. If you find a raptor nesting, keep away from the nest and out of line of sight, and let the climbing community know on thesarvo.com or the CCT facebook group.
* No fires
* Keep dogs under effective control
* Leave any fixed or stashed gear exactly as you found it - it all belongs to someone working hard to develop the crag.
To get to Sand River:
Drive to Buckland, about 60km NE of Hobart on the A3, then turn left on the C318. After 3km, turn turn right onto Sand River Rd. About 8km along this the road takes a sharp left land turn, with some dirt tracks coming off it. This takes a bit under an hour from Hobart.
Access to the bouldering areas are from two car parks:
Barbecue car park: Take the left hand track. Only goes about 100m before a small car park (3 cars)
Main car park: Take the right hand sandy track. If you have the clearance drive along this for another 500m to a flat clear parking area before it heads down hill, otherwise park at the start.
GPS
Barbecue
After turning off the dirt road take the left fork for about 100m. Park at the flat area (room for about 3 cars).
Walk along the track until you get to the boulder sitting on an outcrop above the road. Head down hill for about 30m here then turn left towards the obvious overhangs.
Sandy cave is the first cave you pass. This cave is unusually sandy for Sand River but looks to clean up ok. Plenty of slopey roof problems and small iron rich bands.
Past the sandy cave is an expanse of the usual superb Sand River rock.
Barbecue left side
Low sit start with the lowest chalk crimps. Climb the arete to finish on a large flat jug at the base of the headwall.
Climb the crack from a sit start.
T. Krauss, 2017
Stand start with good crimps. Big and committing moves, but a great landing. Finish on the chalked jug on the high horizontal break.
M. Hitchcock 2017
Barbecue main cave
Start on the two left most flats heel hooking the arete, follow the jugs on the rail then finish up White Bread. There are a range of variations for this, some harder some easier.
Dave Humphries
Start on jug and crimp. Stop at the big flat jug.
Dave Humphries
Classic roof jugging. Start on the slope and gaston, to finish on the outside of the White bread jug.
Dave Humphries
Sit start with jug and sloper. Somewhat contrived (skip the good holds on Sausages), but good moves nonetheless.
M Hitchcock 2017
Sit start on slopers and crimps. Head directly through the roof to gain a good hold on the lip (dark streak). Throw left to the finishing jug.
Probably V9 or harder
Sit start low on good holds. Head out the roof straight up and trend slightly right. From the holds on the lip, and right hand on sidepull far right, throw up to the horizontal. Surprisingly good and independent line.
T. Krauss, 2017
Start at the jug on Lowering the Tone and traverse left. After a couple of tricky moves there is a veritable smorgasbord of holds to choose from. Finish up Sausages, or whatever.
Sit start with jug. Finish on horizontal flat hold on the break.
Twenty metres to the right is the low bulge of the salad bar.
Easy mantle problems your elbows will thank you for.
Same problem three different methods. 1. Stand and pop into a mantle. 2. Hang and push straight up into the mantle. 3. Hang then heel up and roll into the mantle.
Dave Humphries
Another 20 or so metres along is another cave
The Firewall
To access the Firewall: From the main car park, walk down the old fire trail for about 50m, and then follow a red taped track off left through the bracken then down the spur line (as for the Colosseum). The spur ends at the top of a small cliff (Riverside) just above the river. The left side of the Firewall area is visible about 100m to the north (left as you face downhill). The red taped track to the Colosseum descends to the river to the north of Riverside. Part way along this descent, a yellow taped track leads about 100 metres across north to the Firewall. Overall it’s about a ten minute walk from the car park.
Right to left traverse finishing in corner
H. Jackson
Right to left traverse starting in black corner, folllow high horizontals, finishing on high jugs on Glowing Embers.
T Anderson
Left to right traverse, through prow using edges finishing on jug.
T. Anderson
Low traverse around prow, finishing as per Backburner. Careful not to lose left slipper!
H. Jackson
The Coloseum
The Colosseum offers a large range of steep roof problems under and around the climbs. If you can carry your mat for 40 mins it is worth a visit.
To access the Colosseum: From the main car park, approach as per the Firewall, but keep going past Riverside Crag down to the river, then follow the tapes north up the river for about a kilometre through the dense forest which is surprisingly easy walking. Once you're down in the river bed you can't see much, but you will get glimpses of the west facing slabby cliffs up to the right (the left end is Eldorado). Keep following the tapes upstream to where the cliff changes direction to face north, and take the right fork of the stream. Cross the stream and follow the tapes up the hill, arriving under the massive roof of Crossing the Rubicon, about 35-45 mins walk from the car, depending on your speed.
Starts on jug in the roof then pulls to crimps and mantles to the top
Classic
G Phillips
Stand start to topping out
C Hylander
Start at the back on double underclings at right hand end of the first roof section (4m left of the climb "Caligula"). Climb out and right on large pinches and slopes to finish on the jugs around the corner.
Straight out to finish in the big dish above the lip .
G phillips
Same start as the v6 but head right. Jump to lip and finish on jugs on the head wall
C hylander
Same start as the v7 but at the lip traverse left along the lip and up to jugs
G phillips
Sit start.
Out through roof to the lip . Then up to jug.
C hylander
Eldorado
The prominent freestanding boulder visible from the base of the crag. Requires a short but sweet jaunt through the bracken.
Access via the Coloseum, then walk around the cliff to climbers right. ~200m (approximate!)
Low start. Great moves all the way!
D. Lehmann & N. Bisas September 2017
The next boulder is 20 metres behind the one above.
Classic.
D. Lehmann & N. Bisas September 2017
Panopticon
Problems here may be more scattered than at other areas, and the steep approach may deter some. However there are some good problems that scrub up well with probably more to be added in the area.
To access the Panopticon: it's in the next valley to the south of the Colosseum, to the SE of the main parking area. Walk down the old logging track from the car park right down till the track turns to the right. Veer off left and follow a taped line down to the creek and then straight up the hillside the other side to the base of the cliff. The crag is the first major buttress to the left, about 30 mins walk from the car.
This first boulder is located at the base of the crag where you arrive following the tapes/cairns.
Start low on the arete, moving on to the face. Nice moves
D. Lehmann & N. Bisas. September 2017
This steep boulder is about 20 metres down the hill and to left of the base of the routes.
Start on low crimps and ascend the steep face with the assistance of the diagonal crack. Brilliant!
D.Lehmann September 2017
This line is just past the obvious roof, visible to the left of the routes and the boulder above.
Fun moves up the slab to the crack under the roof, follow this up and over.
N. Bisas. September 2017