Feltham Area

Thin crack up to steel spike. One of the best finger cracks in the gorge.

The off-width on the arete.

Climbs the underclings to thin crack to spikes. Finishes up the double arete to the top with no protection for the last 4m

Corner 5m upstream from Bad Mouth.

Left hand off-width to hand crack then on to the face of the top pillar.

A difficult start up thin crack and corner before easing to hand jams. Continue up crack above.

Starts up Thylacine and then traverses on to Pygmy Possum after the off-width.

Scramble up the gully on the right of the Pygmy Possum Buttress to where it is possible to climb the arete/pillar with 3 eye-bolts and some natural gear (oh no) to a DBB.

Corner crack just to right of French ethics

Thin crack with a slight overhang at the start. Begin with finger pocket and through the crack to finish.

Nice hand to fist crack with large block obstructing the top. Traverse right below block to top out.

Pleasant climbing up the crack behind the tree.

The main face of the buttress with 2 fixed hangers. Follows small rails and pockets at the bottom to large laybacks and slopers at the top. Bring 2 extended draws for DBB.

On the right of the crag, climb the small face with flared horizontal crack half way up. Stand start using small edges and slopers to top out.

A little further upstream, directly above Feltham Buttress. A corner crack

Start in cleft on the far left up to overlap and crack above.

Climb the arête 1m left of Aqua-Slick with 3 U-bolts. Good climbing though the crux is avoiding stepping into Aqua-Slick. DBB.

The hand crack just 1m right of Suflower.

The right-hand face and crack with a hard start.

Line of 3 bolts right of Down to the Canvas.

The first crack on the downstream end of the buttress.

Face climbing up the left-hand line of 2 U-bolts.

Climb to the 2nd bolt of The Night Dweller and traverse right at that level crossing Third Rising at the 2nd bolt and then across to Feltham. Easier for the tall and easier going right to left.

The face left of Westham with 3 U-bolts. Starts 2m left of Westham. A variant start on the block another 2m left goes at 17.

The classic corner/crack system.

The orange face with 2 bolts and then exiting up the finger crack on the right.

Climb the arête right of Third Rising using the same bolts and finish as for that climb, but somehow avoiding Lingham all the way.

Classic hand jamming.

Wide arête 2m right of Lingham, this time avoiding going into either Lingham or Feltham!

Up right trending ramp to block then back left to hand crack.

Just 4m around the corner from F.

Starts 2m right of Smart Pig up broken corner and off-width.

3m right of Pork Hunt go up crack through small roof.

The thin crack past the rusty old piton.

Take the left hand crack.

Climb face to single U-bolt, then up to flake and on to top. First bolt can be easily clipped from right before starting to avoid awkward fall.

5m right of Jelly boy. Climb up to overlap and up crack on the right.

The third of 3 cracks around the corner from Cunningham. Needs a clean.

The last corner.

Thin corner with crack widening at the top.

A must for all! Arête with 3 eye-bolts to a DBB.

Up behind block and then up left.

Behind block and up right.

Starts at the bulge and then up to finger crack.

From hanging belay climb face and crack via steel bracket.

Avoid the steel bracket by going right.

The bolted arete upstream of Ezra. Two home made hangers sit on top of the cliff above the route. Contrived but good grade 23 if you avoid the block on the left. Alternatively, use the block and the climb becomes a rubbish 21/22.

The first hand crack of the downstream end of the buttress. An excellent jamming excursion.

The face 1m right of the Wrong Man, up to an eye-bolt and then the thin crack.

Thin face with 2 eye-bolts then exit up crack on left. Can be done starting up the chimney on the right and then moving left but take off two grades.

First finger crack on the next face.

The next crack starting as a finger crack then opening up to a hand crack.

Starts up corner with thin crack to ledge and then easier crack.

The right line, the last of the 4 cracks.

Arête with 3FH and small wires.

Corner/thin crack 2m right of Ng Man.

Corner/finger crack 2m right of In-between Man.

Blunt arête with 4FH. Go directly up

Up awkward corner to the large hand crack.

The finger crack on the left hand end of the buttress which opens to a small corner and hand jamming.

Corner and crack 3m right of Getting Dark...

The hand crack near the arête.

Same start as Straight Arm then move right at 1/3 height to the next crack.

Go up the overhanging flake to right diagonal crack and along it to the twin cracks.

The main corner and crack.

Up thin crack 3m right of Rhubarb.

Left slanting off-width.

A very short finger to hand crack - almost "diminutive".

Off-width with a dog-leg at 1/3 height.

Finger crack 4m upstream of Skylight.

Short corner but long compared to the previous 3.

Step right from ledge onto arete and fixed hanger then head up. Originally done direct but a crucial hold has broken off and still waits for an ascent this way.

10m right of Fingal Fling. Up short corner and flake to move left to hand crack.

Bolted line right of lady midnight. Climbs the face and arete, with delicate climbing between a couple of powerful moves. DBB

Thin face and crack climbing on face 3m left of Joan Of Arc.

The crack you just abseiled past. Climb thin crack to gain left hand edge of cave then move back left to hand crack.

Climb the face right of Joan of Arc past a FH up to the cave and then up finger crack.

Traverse to the second corner upstream of Arc of Joan, preferably when the tide is out, then climb the hand crack.

Abseil from 10m upstream of Lady Midnight to the water for a hanging belay. Climb the crack.

Rappel from anchor located at the base of dreams of Broken Glass (down and right of lady midnight). Rappel to hanging belay. Climb out the shallow corner finger crack. Best done at low tide.

About 10m upstream of Italian Club. Climb up and left to the overhang and then up crack.

Best approached from the upstream side or even The Gully. Start at the water level go up the slab to the small roof and jam crack.

the pinnacle furthest downstream. Climb the small crack and arete via one bolt, DBB

The left of the two major chimneys.

This climb is on a new cliff just past Right Man buttress on the way to Fat Man buttress. Left leaning line/crack with 5 bolts to rap point. Stick clip the first bolt.

10m upstream from Bonanza is a thin crack widening to offwidth. A perfect beginner trad climb