Shady Side

Upstream pinnacle with horizontal break, above the walkway with a line of U's on the right arete. 23 for climbers 6 foot and up ramps up significantly if shorter

Vegetated easy angled jam crack on LHS

The jamb crack 2m to the left of The Trap with a block in the crack at the top.

Step off the rails and on to the black face with 4 FH, 70 steps on from the Prince of Darkness abseil point.

The offwidth on the right of the buttress.

The upstream most of this trilogy of climbs. Climb the features to a hand crack at mid-height then continue on up the arête.

The climb ascends the blocky crack in the middle of the buttress to a small roof then up a thin crack to the sloping ledge.

Up blocky crack as for POD to small roof, traverse left just under roof/bulge to gain next ascendable sectoon, finish at fence/walkway.

FA solo,1994.

Start 2m right of POD and head up the ramp to the off-width which can be climbed with-out having to resort to any off-width techniques and then up the top face.

The best pure bridging corner in the lower gorge. 30m downstream of POD climbs an easy corner to a large belay ledge. Technical stemming protected by good RPs to a DBB.

A beautiful piece of rock, starts down right in the chimney to thin crack. Pull through roof via spike and begin traversing left via hand crack. DBB high on face around left arete.

Thin face climbing around the left-hand crack.

The long crack on the right of the main face.

Hand crack left of chimney groove

A short finger crack, not visible from the walkway, on the right of the buttress downhill from the main Disgorge cliff, opening up at the top.

Beautiful looking offwidth.

Jam crack on left of face.

2 eye-bolts to finger crack and pro. Stick clip the first eye-bolt. Looks like it could do with another dose of agent orange. DBB.

The hand crack on the left hand side. DBB.

The thin crack opening towards the top on the blunt arête 3m right of Ned. DBB.

Shares the same start chimney and first FH as TBTSFBG. The route only becomes visible when you move left on the first big ledge. Step in from the block at the base and bridge up the semi open book corner. A few delicate face moves on small holds. Shares the same top anchor as TBTSFBG.

The arete on the left hand end of the buttress with 5 FH. A good route after the chimney, which is bolted for accessing the climbing above. DBB at top. Re-named as it was named for a slightly offensive song no one now knows.

The slightly overhanging rounded arete straight off the path on the right hand end of the buttress. A hard start and 2 bolts of somewhat dirty rock leads to a horizontal break. Then sustained, powerful and technical climbing on excellent rock through 3 more bolts to lower offs. One of the better hard lines in the Gorge.

The main line up the face of the alcove. Climb past 3 FH to stand on pedestal, place some gear in the crack, from here some holds out left lead the way to the top. DBB on ledge.

Three bolts up a very blank looking rounded arete/face via side pulls lead to an easier crack.

Wide crack on far L of main face.

The blunt arete with 3 FH right of the squeeze chimney. For the full grade, make the clips and don't build a stack of cheat stones. By the admission of the FA, kinda contrived, but it's likely 5 min from your house. Take a couple of larger C3's for the crack at the end of the hard climbing and a 0.75 camalot for just before the top. There is an alternative start that utilizes the large hold on the left arete and traverses in which is easier and formerly thought to be 'silly' but is very Beta Park / modern bouldering!

Offwidth corner on the leftside of the buttress with some loose chockstones

About 25 steps upstream from the main Double Dozen Buttress is a hand crack opening up to off hands at the top. DBB.

The left hand crack and corner.

Boulder problem start to the steep crack then exit out right of the block at the top. Add a grade for the direct finish. DBB.

Climb the start of Double Dozen (Classic 22 trad route) to the ledge up slopy crimps in the corner.

Up the thin double cracks on the right above the “booga” graffiti. DBB.

The bolted face 5m right of No Right Turn. DBB.

The line of bolts up the arete right of It’s in the Veins.

Takes the corner and thin crack left of Pipedreams. Thin gear in the crack and bumping an extended #6 up the corner is a good backup. Build a nest before committing to the top crack and blast to glory.

Climbs lest side of face to a big ledge and up sharp corner.

Walk up the right side of Double Dozen Buttress and climb up the fixed rope to the old pipes. Follow these pipes to your right. All up it’s 30m from Future World. Up pillar past 3 FH to a DBB.

The leftmost route on the buttress up a blunt arête past 3 bolts. The crux (a balancy double-clutch move) may feel easy if done perfectly and impossible if not - potential ingredients for frustration. Note: the current anchors are far up and right from the top of the route making cleaning interesting.

Visible from the walk-way it is the left hand crack on the upstream face 4m left of the very thin twin cracks (which are waiting a first ascent). DBB way over the back.

The twin cracks. Climbed without stripping the gear between lead attempts. Get your tallest friend along to place a high micro-cam!

The arete with 5 fixed hangers 2m right of the very thin twin cracks. DBB at top. The best climbing at the grade near Launceston.

The bolted wide crack and arete near the right hand end of the buttress. Can be done with varying degrees of directness; climbs particularly well if the large ledge on the right is avoided.

Originally called Pipeline, but known by the above name for many years. It is 15m around the corner from Morehead’s Corner and easy to identify now because the council has put cables over a potentially loose boulder at the top. Climb the left hand crack/corner then traverse right onto the black face past 3 carrots and the macrame. DBB. Ng and Vincent 1992. A direct start has been done at the same grade (for tall people) but doesn’t add much to the climb.

Crack to the right of Road to the Lost City.

Next crack to the right.

The arete with 2 eye-bolts and wires. DBB.

The off-width looking crack.

The crack 2m downstream of Only the Wheel. DBB.

3 bolts up the right hand arete.

Corner right of arete.

Climb the fused corner for 2m before moving out to the left arête for another 2m and then back to the crack. Sounds contrived, but who knows I haven’t done it.

The arete right of In Cahouts with 3 FH and a 1 friend at the top. DBB.

Pleasant crack climbing up the middle of the face.

Climb up the easy face to a ledge with a DBB. These are actually to facilitate measuring of rock movement and were placed by council. Nice of them hey! Move right around the arete to a black face with a thin crack up it. Climb this then move left at half height to an easier crack to finish at a DBB.

A natural pro sports route. This route is yet to see an ascent placing gear on lead. Otherwise it’s something of a hassle since you have to rap down to pre-place gear! Climb the face left of the off-width heading left at the top.

Jam crack to offwidth. Take a #5 Camalot.

Great moves up past 4 FH to a DBB.

On the downstream side of the pinnacle. Scramble up ramp, slightly wide crack with a fused section after the horizontal break. The anchors for history maker can be used for a toprope anchor with a long chord and it is best to rap off those same bolts.

The finger crack up the left hand side of the buttress.

The very thin crack left of the chimney.

Up the prow of the buttress.

Right of STG and left of the chimney.

The same pillar as The New Move just sticking to the upstream face. Contrived but fun and the tourists won’t know the difference. 2 FH to the same DBB as The New Move.

Call it what you will just do it! 2 eye-bolts to a DBB.

Corner to the R.

The middle arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB.

The downstream arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB.

Obvious offwidth/squeeze chimney.

A thin crack that opens up to hand crack towards the top. It’s climbability is often threatened by the encroachment of ivy. People have been threatening to clean it out for years. You could be the one.

The bolted open-book dihedral 10 steps right of Ivy Crack. Climb thin crimps up the dihedral and pull the roof trending left to mantle on a ledge. A long reach up and right guards the anchors. If your too short to reach the hold from the ledge without jumping, this is probably more like 29.

Climb the corner or boulder up the arête 10 steps from FTA. Continue up the slab past a tree branch and 3 bolts to a DBB.

Up past 2 FH on the left of the arete. Same DBB as TMMT.

Contrived but worthwhile. Climbs the face and arete around the corner from Fighting the Authorities without useing any holds on the Fighting the Authorities face. the Same DBB as TMMT.

Around the arête from FTA or 20 steps upstream from POTR. 2FH. Starts in the corner, under the roof. Up to clip the first bolt, then out left onto the face and up. DBB.

An old neglected McMahon route that hadn't had been seeing much traffic. Recently revived by the addition of a DBB which makes getting down much easier. Great sustained and tricky finger locking for a few moves up the nice crack. Harder if you avoid bridging across to the hanging arete on the left.

More like “path of the idiotic”. When concerns were raised about the poor bolting quality (protruding carrots and lack of lower offs) on this climb the first ascentionist saw fit to hack them off but not replace them with something better. If you really want to solo it (or better yet, if an altruistic individual retro-bolts it) the route starts 15 steps from FTA on an face left of a small roof around the arete from Heckle.

Up arete through low roof to join the top of Heckle

The off-width that hits you in the face as you walk from the toll gate. 155 steps from the start of the bottom end of the track. For those interested in history McMahon thinks this may have been the first climb done in the Gorge. DBB.

The corner 3m right of Heckle.

The high quality compression line straight up the face of the left most pinnacle. 4 U bolts and lower-offs

unbolted face with DBB

The hardest open project in the Gorge and possibly the hardest line in the gorge if it goes. Takes the blank left face and sharp arete to DBB

Right side of arete to DBB

The pocketed face and left arete to DBB

Obvious crack RHS of "Hot Pockets" to shared DBB. Avoid large loose block at start.

On the up-river face, an offwidth groove to chimney

Rough finger crack with a little roof

3 bolts in the middle of face.

Best climbed at low tide. Access is on the other side of the foot bridge and scramble to the base of the lower tier. Thin hands to #4 or 5

The obvious short stemming corner 5m left of The Great Willy.

Excellent face and slappy arete climbing. Climb the bolted face of the obvious double arete/seperate pillar. Start at base of pillar, using chockstone for left foot if needed once climbing. DBB.

The crack that forms the right side of The Great Willy. Offwidth easing to hands.

Choose your path up the face and arete's to the DBB. Stick clip the first bolt to avoid falling down the gully.