Pinmatik - Rocky Cape
10mins
Afternoon sun
Quartzite 10-25m
Acknowledgement
by Tony McKenny (based on an original guide by Neale Smith, Nick Williams and Rima Truchanas), originally published in Craglets 6.
Introduction
Opportunities for quality climbing are a bit thin on the ground in the Northwest of the State but the Pinmatik - Rocky Cape crag is a gem. Located at the western end of the National Park, these orange and white quartzites are amongst the oldest rocks in Tasmania, dating from around 1.5 billion years ago when this part of Tasmania seems to have been part of North America.
The crags offer a range of climbs in idyllic settings beside the sea. The main crag above Cave Bay has superb quality rock particularly at the north (L) end, hard and glassy, and steep although the rest of the crag is a bit more broken and a little loose in places. Most of the climbs can be climbed in one (at times, long, rope stretching) 50m pitch although many were climbed originally in two pitches or more.
Decent from the cliff can be made with 2 or 3 rappels on fixed slings to the right of Zoro. There is a slung boulder at the very top of the ridge and end of pitch 4 of Zoro. The next point is 5m right of the top of the third pitch of Zorro. A 60m rope at full stretch should get you from here to the ground, alternatively there is a third point at the end of the second pitch of Zoro.
This area is of great spiritual significance to the Tasmanian Aboriginal people, and Aboriginal sites such as the cave and middens are fully protected by law. Please respect the historic and spiritual values they represent by leaving them as you found them. We strongly recommend that climbers avoid the routes round the North Cave area in particular. The old descent gully should also be avoided for this reason.
History
Glen Kowalik was the leading mover and groover back in the early seventies with ascents of Zorro and Shelob Stairs, two quality lines, but the main period of exploration was in the late seventies and early eighties. Local activists from the north west coast including John Richardson, Tony McKenny, Robert (Bird) Hamilton and Bevis (Fred) Dutton were responsible for pioneering a number of the better routes including the excellent Vader and Jamboree, but it was the dynamic duo of a youthful Nic Deka and Neale Smith, backed up by Nick Williams, who pushed up the grades, and the quality, with classics such as Juggernaut, Virgin on the Ridiculous and the desperate Scary Monster.
Access
The main climbing areas, about one hour drive west of Burnie, are reached via the C227 (Rocky Cape Road), turning off the A2 about 2.5 km west of the Rocky Cape township. After about 3 km take the first turn R to the Burgess Cove crags, or the second turn R to the Light House (signposted) and the main climbing area. Park at the start of the walking track to North Cave (GPS RCP000).
National Park fees apply and can be purchased from the General Store at Sisters Beach, the Rocky Cape Roadhouse (on the highway as you turn into the park), and Service Tasmania statewide. Camping is prohibited in the Park and there is no fresh-water near the climbs. The nearest camping is at the Rocky Cape township, Peggs Beach just past Port Latta on the way to Stanley (free camping, no water), or Boat Harbour. Toilets are available at Burgess Cove and Mary Ann Cove.
Phytophthora, root rot, is a problem in the park so please make sure your boots are clean before and after your visit.
Peregrine falcons nest on the cliffs so keep away from any nest and out of sight during the breeding season from August through to December. The most common site of nests has been near North Cave/Ramps are, so there is a standing seasonal closure of extending from Zorro wall to the ramp area (inclusive). If they do appear anywhere else, and you get persistent “hecking” calls from a falcon during the nesting period, back off.
Crag Steward
Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (sistersbeachrockycape@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
GPS
Pinmatik / Rocky Cape Cliff
Zorro Wall
The northern (LH ) end of the crag finishes with a very distinct orange wall (Zorro Wall) above Cave Bay. A rough track can be followed past the Lookout, down to the Bay. An obvious feature on the Wall is a ramp leading L from the high water mark which provides the first pitch for a number of climbs and which stops you getting your feet wet. However, the first few climbs are still best accessed at low tide.
Note seasonal closure for peregrines Augto December.
Scary Monster
★15m23Located in the back gully behind (round to the L of) the Zorro Wall. At the top of the gully, on the RH gully wall. Overhung finger crack into bottomless groove and then up the bulging headwall moving slightly R to finish on slabs of Ent. Poorly protected and probably unrepeated.
Neale Smith, Nic Deka
One Crowded Hour
★15m21Takes the weakness up the very overhanging wall about 5m R of Scary Monsters. If you're feeling strong, have a go.
Nic Deka, Roxanne Wells
Follow LH skyline.
Bevis Dutton, Mike Norris
Follow obvious diagonal chimney to meet with left hand leaning ramp and belay. Move left and follow widish crack to meet with Ent.
Robert Hamilton, John Wood
Climb diagonally up a chimney and continue on through the second pitch of Zorro to belay. Pitch 2.Continue on the diagonal line, jamming awkwardly through the roof. Maintain a diagonal line through to the end of cliff.
Neale Smith, Nick Williams
1. Climb leftwards-leaning ramps as for Zorro, to same belay as above. 2. Continue straight up over small roof and into corner above. Move slightly L to exit.
John Richardson, Neale Smith
Superb climbing, great position. 1. Climb the leftwards trending ramp to where it meets the R leading diagonal. Belay. 2. Move diagonally R (quite awkward) to a belay beneath the roof, below the large patch of guano (look also for rotten slings). 3. Step L, climb roof and face above until it eases. 4. Head to middle of steep headwall and climb directly up this. Continue to the very top of the ridge. A direct alternative to pitch3 climbs through the roofs straight above the belay at the end of pitch 2 (17).
Glen Kowalik, Phil Robinson
Climbs the prominent prow a couple of metres to the L of Virgin on the Ridiculous.
Nic Deka, Neale Smith
Direct start to Zorro. 1. Climb slightly overhanging orange face to belay point on second pitch of Zorro. 2. Exit up Zorro or via the direct finish over the roof (17).
Neale Smith, Nic Deka, Nick Williams
1. Climb straight up to LH edge of Juggernaut and pass over roof at this point. Continue awkwardly to same belay point as Juggernaut. 2. Finish up either Zorro or Juggernaut.
Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Mick Ling
Superb climbing and solid for the grade. Locate triangular roof RH side Zorro Wall. 1. Climb directly up and turn this to the R to a belay. 2. From belay, up three metres, then traverse R three metres, climb overhanging pink face above.
Neale Smith, Nic Deka, Robert Hamilton
Locate curving roof on far RH wall. Climb directly up gully to this, and traverse L underneath, continuing across face and finish up in region of third pitch of Zorro.
Tony McKenny, Nick Williams
Climb chimney at RH end of Zorro wall. Finish can be made either up the corner or moving out R up slab.
Nick Williams, Neale Smith
Pink Elephant Area
Please note seasonal closure for peregrine nesting Aug to Dec.
1. Climbs orange overhanging prow 10 metres R of Lazy Sunday to leftwards-leaning chimney. Belay just above chimney to avoid rope drag. 2. Continue on prow to the top.
Nick Williams, Neale Smith
Just R of Rockwork Orange. Climb leftwards leading diagonal line. This eventually meets up with Rockwork Orange and follows this to top.
Robert Hamilton, Graeme Marshall
Locate obvious chimney R of Nazgul. Pink Elephant climbs the face immediately L of chimney.
Glen Kowalik
Climb chimney. Steve Brown
After the first three metres of Ate, step right and climb diagonally R under overhang, then straight up face above.
Robert Hamilton, John Wood
Up three metres as before, traverse R up ramp approximately 3 metres and cross overhang at this point. Continue straight up face above.
Tony McKenny, Fred Dutton
Start on ramps to R of Ate. 1. Follow these to a belay under largest part of obvious overhang. 2. Climb through overhang at weakest point and swing airily L. Continue straight up face above.
Robert (Bird) Hamilton, Bevis Dutton
1. Climb same ramps as for Birds Line but continue through to their extremity. Continue straight up to a belay just R of a tree-choked gully. 2. Climbs crack in the face above to finish.
Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Vance Murphy
North Cave Area
This area is of great spiritual significance to the Tasmanian Aboriginal people, and Aboriginal sites such as the cave and middens are fully protected by law. Please respect the historic and spiritual values they represent by leaving them as you found them. Climbers should avoid climbing around North Cave, the old routes are included here for historical interest only.
This is the line left of Sickle. A shallow corner near the top provides the main difficulties of the climb.
Basil Rathbone, Ross Mansfield
1. Climb up L edge of North Cave and through small overhand heading L slightly to a belay to avoid rope drag. 2. From belay follow a rightwards line to top.
Robert Hamilton, Graeme Marshall.
Climb face to R of cave heading for the apex of cave itself. Step airily across lip of cave onto a slab leading to the L. Follow this slab and then head straight up face above.
Nick Williams, Nic Deka
Climb to apex of cave via Mystery Tour. Instead of heading L climb shallow corner straight above apex.
Shane Pinner, Murray Hewitt
On face R of Cave, climb the two obvious cracks in face, moving slightly L near top. This climb provides some 'quite awkward' moves.
Glen Kowalik
The climbing is better than the name - well, it has to be, doesn't it. This is the corner immediately R of Anal Interruptus. A few layback moves start the climb. These moves lead to a ledge with a tree. Climb slab immediately above ledge.
Bevis Dutton, Robert Hamilton
To the R of Doggy Do, near lowest point of the cliff line before the gully. Climb the spur, heading towards the bulge with the layaway edge (appears to be an off width from the ground).
Neale Smith, Nic Deka, S. Ridgeway, R Dowling
Just R of Countdown. Start around the corner to the L. Long reaches between jugs.
Neale Smith, Nic Deka, S. Ridgeway, R Dowling
The Ramp Area
Follow base of cliff around past Rocket Man to a large gully (descent gully). Locate the largest slab on the face and find an obvious overhanging crack at the bottom edge. This is Vader.
Please note seasonal clsoure for raptor nesting.
1. Climb crack on awkward jams and pull strenuously into vertical position. A belay can be made on ledge at the top of the crack. 2. Traverse awkwardly R across face to the obvious ramp and climb this to the top.
John Richardson, Robert Hamilton.
1. Climb the wide slab from which Vader starts, to a point below a shallow corner where the slab runs out. A belay can be made here. 2. Climb corner, strenuous and fairly poor protection to top.
Neale Smith, John Richardson
1. Start slightly R of bottom of gully up a longer obvious crack line to a belay below a slab which runs R parallel to Silent Slab but on a lower level. 2. Climb slab R to where it finishes and head up prow to top.
Mark Chin, Glen Kowalik, Rick Roles
This is a narrow slab below Shelob Stairs and parallel to it. 1. Start up first four metres or so of Shelob Stairs and step R on to narrow slab. Climb this until it finishes and belay. 2. Step across gully and finish up slab out to the R.
John Richardson, Neale Smith, Robert Hamilton
Locate cracks which lead up steep wall to a point halfway along Narrow Steps. This is a strenuous and technically difficult climb. Finish up Narrow Steps.
Nic Deka, Shane Pinner
Takes a line of weakness from half way along Golden Stairs directly to the top.
Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.
Climb slab R of Skywalker. As the name suggests the rock is mainly orange in colour. Excellent beginners climb.
Graeme Marshall, John Richardson.
Another in-filler, takes a line 10m to R of Golden Stairs, joining it at half height.
Tony McKenny and Nick Williams
A little difficult to locate. Right at start of Golden Stairs is another slab which although reasonably wide is very short. About one third of the way up this, a very shallow corner system leads continuously leftwards to a finish just R of the Golden Stairs finish. The climbing is on sloping holds and is quite strenuous.
Nic Deka, Robert Hamilton
Girdle Traverse
★★18A girdle traverse has been made of the whole cliff from L to R, reversing Tripping the Light Fantastic and taking a mid-line above the caves to finish up Golden Stairs.
Tony McKenny, Nick Williams, 1982.
Burgess Cove
There are two cliffs at Burgess Cove, both impressive on first site but a tad disappointing on close inspection.
Flagpole Cliff
Park by the start of the walking track to South Cave, and the crag is directly beside you. The routes are fairly obvious from the topo and need little description. Of them all, the Little Gem's name says it all really.
On the L of the crag.
Tony McKenny and Lynne Dutton
Best of the bunch. Up the pillar to the L and then step R onto main face. Straight up to top.
Tony McKenny and Bevis Dutton.
Bevis Dutton and Mick Norris.
Come in from the R.
Bevis Dutton and Graham Marshall.
South Cave
This area is closed to climbing after recognition of important the Aboriginal Heritage values in this area, and speifically in and aroundthis cave, which was an occupied shelter for many thousands of years..
Continue past the Flagpole Cliff to the severly overhung, orange cliff of South Cave, about two minutes walk. About 20m to the R of this is a similarly overhanging white cliff with a wide ramp as a base about 3 to 4m above the level of the cave. Halfway up the ramp is a nearly horizontal roof with a pile of fallen blocks that created it underneath.The following climb starts at the RH end of the roof.
Burnt
35m18A classy climb with a suprising pump! 1. 30m. Climb along the diagonal lines of rock to the nose, high above the cave. From here, continue directly up past some loose rock to the large bushy ledge. 2. 5m. Climb easily up the L corner to top.
H. and M. Jackson, Dec 1992.
Burgess Cliff
Drive to the parking area at the east end (R) of the beach. Walk along coastline east and up to the crag, a couple of hundred metres in all. Again, a bit disappointing as the angle of the slabs is quite low. Still, worth a look. Most of the lines are pretty obvious from the topo.
Bevis Dutton and Mick Norris
Robert (Bird) Hamilton and John Richardson, Bevis Dutton.
Robert (Bird) Hamilton and John Richardson, Bevis Dutton.
Robert (Bird) Hamilton and John Richardson, Bevis Dutton.
A harder connecting line, up the steeper wall between Psycho and Big Slab.
Nic Deka and Vance Murphy.
Cathedral Rock
Probably climbed on in the past (please feel free to edit if aware of any prior ascents/history). Fun little crag in a stunning setting - climbing here on a sunny summer's day is a wonderful experience. Just under an hour of pleasant walking from the carpark (Rocky Cape Rd) on Postman's Pass track. After twenty minutes or so you will come to Postman's Pass, turn left and walk along the coastal track for another twenty minutes or so. You will be able to see cathedral rocks on the left. The king line is Rorogwela, which is probably one of the best trad routes in the North-West. Definitely worth a visit for aspiring North-West tradsters. Please note that this was developed as a trad only area and is a 'no bolt' zone.
![IMG_20170203_125155[1].jpg](/images/8683551/IMG_20170203_125155%5B1%5D.jpg)
Pablo's Predicament
★★20m12An excellent outing with good exposure up the rounded orange arete. Plenty of big holds where it steepens. Finish by squeezing into the chimney at the top, or (better) step left and up the unprotected lichenous slab.
C Arvier, I Cornes Jan 2018
Not a particularly pleasant experience. Up the obvious right hand crack of the face you first get to with some bushes about 5m below the top.
M Lopez, YC Foong 2015
As the name implies, a slightly more pleasant line compared to its neighbour. The crack to the left of Manual disimpaction.
YC Foong, M Bassett 2015
![IMG_20170203_124906[1].jpg](/images/8683551/IMG_20170203_124906%5B1%5D.jpg)
The first 10-15m is pleasant steep climbing. The next line left of Hands-free manual disimpaction.
O Cameron, YC Foong Feb 2017
Thoughtcrime
25m15Not bad. Start at the wide crack just right of Rorogwela. Romp up over a couple of ledges and finish as for Groupthink.
C Arvier, I Cornes Jan 2018
Rorogwela RHV
★★25m22As for Rorogwela, but avoid the top crux by heading right out of the pod with the use of a large jug on the arete. A good option if the swallows are nesting.
C Arvier Jan 2018
A stonker of a route, probably one of the best trad routes in the North-West. Named after a Solomon Island folk tune which was plagarised by the French band Deep Forest without due recognition. Obvious line on the seawards face of the crag. Start on block in the middle of the face, up this for about 5m, then move right to the start of the left-trending flake. Up this until there is a massive rail on the left - from here go straight up the the pod halfway up the climb. Have a breather in the pod in a stunning position. Then up with a slight leftward trend to top - a fun crux sequence with incredible exposure.
YC Foong, O Cameron Feb 2017
As above - at the massive rail on the left traverse left on this, up and then rejoin the line at the pod. Avoids the first reachy crux on Rorogwela.
YC Foong, B French Dec 2015
Start about 3 metres to the left of Rorogwela. Up faint line, then up to the middle break. Straight up over a steep finish.
B French, YC Foong Dec 2015
Obvious gully to the left of Grandma Buzz. Easy down scramble.
The lichenous looking crack 3m to the right of Chocolate and cruskits. Actually not a bad line with good exposure for the grade.
YC Foong, O Cameron, Z Gilovitz 2015
Some would say a terrible idea. The wide looking crack in the middle of the landwards face.
O Cameron, YC Foong, M Bassett 2015
The crack 3m to the left of Chocolate and cruskits.
YC Foong 2015
Meh. The line opposite the actual crag with a flake at the top. Title is self-explanatory.
YC Foong 2015