North Ridge
30-35 mins
West facing - sun after midday
Introduction
North Ridge is the ridge directly opposite the valley from Plebians Wall. It has patches of excellent rock, and typically morning shade. Anxiety Buttress gets morning sun.
Access
Red Taped Track - This track provides access to the North Ridge and alternative access to the left side of the Colosseum at the climb ‘Crossing the Rubicon’. Walk down the trail ~100m from the car park and turn left at the first cairn. Turn left at the junction ~10m BEFORE the usually dry river bed (~500m downhill from the first cairn, just past the track that turns left to the Firewall crags), look for red tapes!! There is a large tree fallen down over the river bed, cross here and follow the tapes North (upstream) just past the river bed. The North Ridge junction is ~500m past the fallen tree with easy walking through the valley. The junction is up a little rise where two streams meet. From here continue North (purple/pink tape, uphill ~500m) to go to North Ridge or East (red tape) to continue to the Colosseum. The track zigzags up the ridge, then contours around left to the buttresses.
GPS: -42.51065, 147.72551
See contour map below.
Map facing North. 4x4 car park (W green dot) to Panopticon (SE black dot). North Ridge (N black dot). Red taped valley track (centre black dot N to green dot). Blue taped track to Eldorado (lowest yellow dot) up to Super unknown Buttress (NE yellow dot). Sand River (blue line) is appropriate at best. Map created with AllTrails.
Sunbeam Buttress
Follow the track 50m past Romance Buttress.
The orange streak. Glorious jug hauling leads to a harder finish.
Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Oct. 2018.
The wall to the right of Stella's Climb.
Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Oct. 2018.
Nice to revisit techniques from the olden days. Climb the crack clipping the bolts on Sunbeam. When this becomes too difficult, run it out trad style or place one or more 1/2-2 cam units (also trad style). Clip the Sunbeam anchors.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut Oct 2018
Interesting climbing on the left side of the turret.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Sep 2018.
Tier Wall
Between the Sunbeam and Tough Love Buttress is a large steep wall split by a small ledge about 2/3rds of the way up.
A journey into the world of Bryophytes. Takes the distinct crack line through the initially balancy corner, until a small vegetated ledge is reached. After this, work the layback crack (crux) up until the step in the buttress is reached. From here, pick your poison of another set of distinct lines L-R: vegetated chimney, thin face climb, burly off-width or the jug wall/off-finger crack (original FA). Top-out above the triangular headwall boulder and belay/rap off trees at top. About as shit as it looks.
If anyone wants to throw bolts around here, please go ahead (retro-bolting welcomed by FA's).
Jay Borchard, Christoph Speer, Jan 2021
Tough Love Buttress
The buttress just to the left of Romance Buttress.
Tough Love Buttess
Nice climbing up the overhanging arete, starting from the base.
David Stephenson and Neale Smith, October 2019
Romance Buttress
The big buttress you come to after the track crosses a big broad gully.
Up thin hand crack until into finishes, avoid shrubs, clip the bolt on Valentine and then up finishing up through the crux of Valentine.
Fraser L-R and Alix Halle
The splitter finger crack in the middle of the North facing grey wall of Romance Buttress. Up the crack with crux where crack fades. Steep and fingery on great rock.
Neale Smith, Bob Bull, Feb 2019
The right arete of the grey wall. Starts at base of Valentine and moves across the wall with a couple of thin moves(crux) then up the arete. Lovely position.
Bob Bull, Neale Smith, Feb 2019
A fine climb up the left side of the front of the buttress, with a couple of crux sections.
Neale Smith, Dave Stephenson and Bob Bull, September 2019.
A great mix of styles up the right side of the prominent buttress. Holds appear when desired. Will improve with age.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Oct 2018.
Romance Buttress
The more than obvious corner crack and overhang to right of Romance is All in The Wrist. No further guidance required. Grade Updated - 18-20 following a number of ascents.
Neale Smith and Bob Bull, Feb 2018
Anxiety Buttress
This is the orange/yellow buttress at the top of the hill. Approach by scrambling up the gully before Romance Buttress, or traverse across the tops of the lower cliffs from the right.
Bring your psych! Great climbing that feels very exposed for such a short climb. Nice jugs to the main lip, turn this as gracefully as you can then up the superb headwall.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut Nov 2018
Project - Jon & Dave - the steep nose of the buttress
Takes a line to the right of the nose. Steep, juggy and fun.
Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Jan 2019.
Project
Project - Jon & Dave - roof 3m right of Smokey Bear Mode.
Steep face to the right of the cave. Climb the steepening wall.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut Dec 2018
Split Buttress
A shorter buttress at the right hand side of the big, broad gully, right next to the path, and split by an overhanging yellow crack.
The overhanging crack. Steep and exciting climbing on good rock.
Matt Crawford and Tony McKenny, Sept 2019.
Superstition Wall
A nice little crag easily overlooked on way to North Ridge Main Area. Head up to North Ridge to where hill first flattens. You will have passed access to Big View Wall. Look up to right and identify cliff with cave like feature in middle - this is it (see topo).
Superstition Wall
The left of the 3 climbs on the wall. Up a little wall to start and head to L edge of cave feature. Traverse left a bit and find a way up seam. Hang on until anchors clipped.
N Smith & Bob Bull - March 2021
The middle route. Start towards R end and trend L to R side of cave. Up a little and commit to move out on to wall R of cave. Head up. May feel quite steep through middle for the grade.
Bob Bull & N Smith - Late 2020
Start up Voodoo Child for 1st 2 bolts. Work way up to and over bulge. A bit of a crank to veer slightly R immediately above bulge and then up steepish wall.
N Smith & Bob Bull - 6th Nov 2022
Big View Buttress
Follow normal route up to North Ridge. Instead of heading Left when you are nearly at the crag towards main North Ridge buttresses (Split Buttress, Romance etc), head Right and follow base of cliffs until locating this compact buttress which faces South -looking back over valley towards Colloseum/Plebians Wall. Nice pocketed rock with a good selection of short vertical routes in the 16-21 range.
Big View Buttress
Takes a journey up the L end of buttress - facing West. Steepish.
Neale Smith & Bob Bull - January 2020
Has been toproped - will be bolted. Will be quite ok despite proximity to routes L & R.
First route on L end main face (South). Looks easy but offers solid resistance. It has been said that you can't live on kangaroos and dreams - hopefully you do!
Neale Smith and Bob Bull - January 2020
Squeezed in. Another fingery climb on this wall. Consistent. Thoughtful.
Bob Bull and Neale Smith - Feb 2020
Pretty much up the middle of the wall. Head for the squarish block sticking out from the top. A good selection of holds - most of which are not that good. Will keep you entertained until the final clip.
Neale Smith and Bob Bull - January 2020
Start up the easy crack towards R end. Stand on a small ledge in comfort and then fondle the smooth wall above. Surprisingly awkward move or 2 followed by easier, but potentially pumpy climbing to the top.
Neale Smith, Bob Bull, Tony Mckenny & Dave Stephenson - January 26th 2020