The Panopticon
Introduction
The Panopticon is in the next valley to the south of the Colosseum, and contains an extensive amount of rock. A fun day out for mortals, especially in winter.
Named after Panoptes, the Greek mythological giant with a hundred eyes, the views from the crag are superb. Port Arthur Prison was modelled on the Panopticon - the prisoner thought they were being watched from the central watchtower even when they were not.
Panopticon left has quality routes from around 18 upwards, Panopticon right has some excellent routes from 12 to 22 and classy longer routes at quite moderate grades, with some harder test pieces in between.
Peregrines nest in the Far East, either at the head of the valley or across on the shady side, which may require seasonal closures. Look out for them August - December. If you notice them nesting, keep well away from the nest and out of line of sight, and let the climbing community know on thesarvo.com or the CCT facebook group.
Access
Walk down (PLEASE do not drive down due to erosion!) the old logging track from the car park till the track turns to the right. Veer off left (marked with cairn) and follow a taped line (orange tape) down to the creek and then straight up the hill on the other side to the base of the cliff at the Jail House Rock. The developed crags are mostly to the left, about 30 mins walk from the car. Limited access to private land has been negotiated right to the (cooler) “Twin Towers” on the Western side. These cliffs are about 3 minutes walk right from Jail House Rock.
The various crags are described left to right - which is the opposite from how you encounter them if you are climbing on the eastern crags. The Jail House Rock is a minute's walk left from where the track meets the cliff. The track then leads past Buddy's and Rawl's Slabs, Bentham Wall, Foucault Buttress and finally Shape Shifter Arete, beyond which lies the Far East with Wednesday Buttress, Terrace Wall, Gin and Tonic Buttress and Xanadu. The Far East, the first crags to be described, are about 10 mins walk left from the Jail House Rock.
The Far East
Xanadu Buttress
Xanadu Buttress is the 30m high buttress at the head of the valley, with the Pleasure Dome cave on its right side visible from Terrace Wall. Easiest access is to walk one minute past Side Show Alley to a track junction, now marked by cairns (2026). Traverse at this level for a further 2 minutes (overgrown with dead sticks and bushes in July 2026) to Wednesday Buttress and a further 2 minutes to Xanadu Buttress. Scramble uphill to the Pleasure Dome and cross it to start Kubla Khan or continue along the base to the start of Xanadu.
At the cairned junction if one climbs up the hill following the base of the wall one reaches Gin and Tonic Buttress and Terrace Wall.
To the L of Gin and Tonic is Hybrid Vigour with a fixed handline to reach it, still there in July 2026. Below this are two U bolts which give an abseil down to the Pleasure Dome and another access to Kubla Khan.
The Pleasure Dome is bisected by its beautifully sculpted white pillar - and it would be a shame if someone desecrated this unique formation with bolts! It is worth visiting here just to marvel at the wonders of geological time.
Xanadu Buttress from Terrace Wall
Xanadu Buttress from the ground
The interesting technical crux comes in the first 5m. Continuing up Kubla Khan on the easier upper arête as the climb was originally conceived makes for a nice 30m pitch.
Dave Stephenson, June 2018
The adventurous arête to the left of Pleasure Dome cave - terrific positions and thoughtful climbing follow the initial less than perfect rock. It can be started in several ways: walking or abseiling to the Pleasure Dome cave at the middle level and then starting up the initial thin rib from inside of the cave, or by stepping around the rib to the left and climbing the slab behind the gum tree; or as a continuation of Xanadu, following the arête all the way from the bottom making for a 30m pitch.
Dave Stephenson and Neale Smith, June 2018
This is a lovely area of great rock and even better ambience, high up. Access is to climb uphill one minute from Side Show Alley, follow a couple of cairns at the track junction, uphill along the base of the wall to Gin and Tonic and Terrace Wall. Hybrid Vigour is located down and L of Gin and Tonic buttress, and just near Freeloader, From that route head up and left using the hand line.
A nice little route. Short but sweet. Funky climbing down low and a steep finish.
Ben Maddison, Neale Smith & John Fry December 2018
Great climbing on excellent rock. A nice 21 climb is spoilt by a couple of heinous moves between bolts 3 & 4. Still a project for the moment
Ben Maddison, Neale Smith
A nice little route down L from Gin and Tonic buttress. A slightly less impressive analog to Freerider.
Hard start to undercling at overlap and reach R around arete to jugs.
Ben Maddison October 2018
Gin and Tonic Buttress
Gin and Tonic Buttress
Small buttress of polished stone left of Terrace Wall, with a pair of routes that will lift your spirits.
Some strong moves up the left side of the buttress.
Tony McKenny and Dave Stephenson, May 2018
Refreshing sequence on the right side of the buttress with two cruxes, at the very bottom and the very top. Start at the thin seam just right of the nose.
Dave Stephenson, May 2018
The buttress just right of Tonic. Up and onto the flake, move R a bit then straight up.
Neale Smith and Ben Maddison. Sept 2020
Terrace Wall
This north-facing wall of superb polished stone offers an outstanding concentration of vertical to slightly overhanging short routes. It is uninterrupted by ledges, so don't expect many rests! Located on the top level of crags directly above Wednesday Buttress, it's reached by walking five minutes past Shape Shifter Arête. A flat ledge runs along the base providing a convenient warm belay on a sunny winter day, but be wary of the drop off below.
Terrace Wall Left
The left hand arête provides a lovely sequence of moves, with the crux coming near the top.
Bob Bull, May 2018
The farthest left route of the wall proper, just right of the left hand arête. A thinnish start then fun moves to the top.
Stu Scott, May 2018
The second line. Interesting technical crux between 2nd and 3rd bolts leads to a slight jog left and a vague rest in the scoop, followed by sustained but easier wall climbing to the lower offs.
Dave Stephenson, May 2018
Thin start then sustained, thoughtful climbing up the left leaning third line. Great fun.
Stu Scott, May 2018
The fourth line. Nice.
Ben Maddison, May 2018
The fifth line, with the crux layaways coming near the top.
Ben Maddison, May 2018
The sixth line up the vague crack weakness - very pleasant.
Bob Bull, May 2018
The seventh line. Interesting moves to a thin finish - worthwhile.
Stu Scott and Bob Bull
The overhanging right hand arête - excellent.
Bob Bull, May 2018
Terrace Wall Right
Wednesday Buttress
This delightful buttress has a brace of worthwhile routes. It is low down only ~2 minutes R of Xanadu Buttress. Two access methods. 1. Traverse around the hillside at low level from the cairned track junction mentioned above for 2 minutes as for access to Xanadu Buttress and Kubla Khan, which are a further 2 minutes along. or 2. Drop down left at the pagoda-type cave en route to Terrace Wall, finding abseil anchors on top of Wednesday Buttress. 20m abseil, and pull rope.
Start up the short corner on the LHS of the buttress (not shown on topo), to the main flake crack . Up the channel between two flakes trend L up juggy steep rock to lower off.
Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland November 2017
A good sport route. The line L of Channel Highway. A delicate start leads to some tasty flake work in the upper half.
Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland November 2017
A nicel open-book groove. A crimpy but short lived crux on excellent rock.
Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland November 2017
A good companion to Wednesday Groove. The line to the L of the cave at 2/3rds height.
Ben Maddison, Neale Smith, Bob Bull & John Fry 2018
Panopticon Central
From where the track hits the cliff line at Trail End Crag and continues leftwards to Shape Shifter Arête and Side Show Alley, there are a range of buttresses with a concentration of quality routes from the high teens to the low twenties.
Side Show Alley
80m further on from Shape Shifter is a nice little wall that you walk under on the way to Terrace Wall area. It is 7 minutes along from Buddy’s Slabs.
The left hand line on the wall. Nice. A slabby crux at 2/3 height.
Bob Bull, Neale Smith, Ben Maddison August 2019
A nice face climb on good rock. You don't have to tread lightly, as such
Bob Bull, Neale Smith, Ben Maddison September 2019
Nice face climbing.
Maddison, Smith & Bull August 2019
The nice face up the RHS of the wall.
Maddison, Bull and Smith, August 2019
Short but fun stepped R arête of Sideshow Alley.
Neale Smith/Ben Maddison September 2019
Baby Buttress
The tiny buttress just left of Shape Shifter has a couple of short but worthwhile climbs.
Baby Buttress
Juggy moves up left side of blunt arête.
David Stephenson, September 2020
Fun bridging up right side of blunt arête.
David Stephenson, September 2020
Pinball Parlour
Immediately L of Shape Shifter arete is a steep gully, the Avalanche Couloire. Head up this via a couple of fixed handlines. After 2nd handline another 15 m up will land you at base of Pinball Parlour cliff. There are 4 routes available for your climbing pleasure - all on good rock and in a nice location.
Pinball Parlour - Cliff
Pinball Parlour
The proud prow to L of main wall. Up short wall, mount the bulge and continue up airy arete to lower offs. Architecturally and sensationally pleasing.
Bob Bull, Neale Smith, Andrew Davies - Nov 5th 2020
L line of bolts on wall, R of obvious corner. Start behind small gum tree and head up. Stay on L side of small rooflet and follow vague weakness until blankness becomes increasingly obvious.
Neale Smith and Bob Bull - Oct 2020
To ascend SDTM (straight down the middle) you will need to climb SUTM (straight up the middle).
SDTM is a work of art and a fine example of the genre. Lovingly prepared to provide the up and coming with a mix of emotions from joy through to despair as faith and fingers fade whilst contemplating the puzzling crux sequence. The climb has a genuine big wall feel, high above the valley with eagles and falcons soaring, gliding and hoping to feed their young with human carrion should a mistake be made. Work your way up to the shallow corner beneath the small rooflet, a bolt at this point will provide scant reassurance as the ledge above is gained. Calm the nerves as a second bolt is clipped and quell the fear as you leave the security of the ledge for the unknown. Bolt 3 will have you quaking in your TC Pro’s as the crux sequence commences. Search for the inevitable jug to guide upwards progression – you won’t find it, there is none in existence. Levitate, gravitate but don’t hesitate on the path to bolt 4. Relax at your peril, it’ a bit early yet, the headwall will surprise and those tiring fingers begin to unfold. Bolt 5 will save a ground fall – just. The summit is near. Centimetres out from your last bolt a launch for the greasy sloper on top is marginal, hope and prayers are your friends here. Clip the anchors quickly and slump – SDTM is complete but not conquered. The body will take time to recover, the mind may never!
Andrew Davies (London Import), N Smith & B Bull - Nov 5th 2020
Towards R of buttress. Head straight up and enter small cave at around 4 m from ground (1st bolt on wall inside cave - careful getting to it). Exit cave on L edge and head up. Trend R to obvious seam and follow this to top. It is possible to continue further R to arete and climb this for an obvious easier, less direct version. Or accept the challenge and stubbornly follow the seam for best value.
N Smith & B Bull Oct 2020
Shape Shifter and Sick Day
To the right of Avalanche Couloir, about 100m left of Foucault Buttress are a couple of sharp arêtes.
Shaper Shifter - Sick Day
Arête climbing with some interesting positions and nice balancy moves.
Bob Bull and the Plebs
The wall to the right of Shapeshifter. Pull up onto wall then left and up to arête finish.
Bob Bull and Neale Smith. September 2020
Round to the right of Sick Day is another small buttress, a well-featured wall with two routes and shared rap station..
Left hand line. Steep and fun.
Jim Duff and Tony McKenny, June 2022
Aka "The Day of the Jackal". Where old carrion eaters congregate ready to steal a route from unwary young climbers...
Start just to the left of the first bolt and then a direct line to the rap station. Steep and thoughtful climbing, easier near the top. A very thin alternate start to the right goes at a grade harder (DB)
Jimmy Duff with Tony (the Jackal) McKenny, Dave Stephenson and Bob Wilson all nipping at his heels. July 2022. Alt start D Brannigan,, Nov 2022.
Knowledge and Power Buttress
The small buttresses just left of Foucault Buttress, with the red overhang on the right side.
Knowledge and Power Buttress
The left hand buttress with a prominent gum tree halfway up. Up the buttress then climb the upper arête on the right hand side to the top.
S.North, C.Watson, B.Bull. December 2017
The wall to the right of Copacetic. Up to bulge then a tricky move onto slab (crux) and up to steep last move before lower offs.
Neale Smith, Bob Bull. July 2020
Left of overhanging arête, with interesting moves up the bulging wall, finishing up top arête.
Dave Stephenson, Nov 2017
Short and sharp. Overhanging orange arête on right, then overhang, finishing on blunt upper arête using last bolt and lower offs as for Knowledge.
Dave Stephenson, December 2017
Foucault Buttress
Right of Power Buttress and left of Bentham Wall is an area of slabs, then a prominent right facing corner which arches into a roof at the top. The routes are a bit longer than those at Bentham Wall. The rock quality is not quite as good as Bentham Wall but the architecture and positions are excellent.
Foucault Buttress
Another piece of nonsense on the left hand end of Foucault Buttress, to the left of Bittersweet. Climbed six year after the original older codgers first line on the Panopticon and probably their last new route given they are now in their late seventies- but never say never!
Neat climbing, the unclimbed (and unbrushed) head wall proved too hard so an open invitation to anyone who wants to try it!
Tony McKenny, Jim Duff, Bob Wilson, Neale Smith, November, 2023.
Start in the middle of wall 12m right of Power and to the left of Deconstructionism. Up crack line, traverse right and then climb excellent brushed slab, keeping left at the top. An extender on the farthest bolt right reduces any rope drag.
Tony McKenny and Dave Stephenson, December 2017
The steep wall to right of Bittersweet. Bouldery start, needs a clean.
Sharp arête on left wall of big corner leads to a step right over the top of the roof to follow blunt arête to right. Balance up the polished slab below the upper roof, finishing with hanging corner at top.
Dave Stephenson, Oct 2017.
Start at slab just right of enormous right facing corner, directly below a disused falcon perch high in the corner. Follow corner above, then before reaching the falcon perch make exciting moves up and left across the overlaps, and continue up the wall above to the lower offs.
Dave Stephenson, Oct 2017.
Slab climbing to the right of Power over Mind. The bolts are spaced near the ground - not a first climb for a beginner leader.
Chuck McGibbon, Bob Bull, March 2018.
Slab to the right of Port Arthur.
Chuck McGibbon, March 2018.
Definitely the best of the three slab climbs - the steepening slab right of Guantanamo Bay, left of Prohibition.
The Old Lags, out on day release - Jim Duff, Tony McKenny and Bob Wilson, Feb 2022.
Bentham Wall
Five minutes left from The Jail House Rock is Bentham Wall. To the right are Rawl's Slabs with a couple of long routes and more to come, and to the left is Foucault Buttress. The area is named after Jeremy Bentham who designed the Panopticon. Great for those with a fetish....
Bentham Wall Left
A nice trad route. God forbid! Up the crack to lower-offs.
Ben Maddison, Ingrid Crossland & Neale Smith, Oct 2017.
Left hand variant of Good Yard. Break left after fourth bolt of Good Yard. Finish up slab leading to lower-offs for Prohibition.
Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland, October 2017
The tricky groove leading to a roof, right of Prohibition. Above roof trend right to lower-offs.
Ben Maddison and Ingrid Crossland, October 2017.
Really classy climbing for repeat offenders. The line right of Good Yard, surmounting the bulge above the orange wall.
Ben Maddison and Ingrid Crossland, Oct 2017.
The Pleasure Algorithm. Thin and complex climbing on a beautiful piece of rock. Entertainment to satisfy the most discerning hedonists.
Stu Scott and the Plebs
Short and sweet with an inky pinky finish.
Stu Scott and the Plebs
Bentham Wall Right
"The greatest Happiness for the greatest number". The crack to lower offs. Nice.
Chuck McGibbon and the Plebs, Oct 2017.
Bentham's motivational theory had two parts..... Pain, when it is intense, is sometimes described as "exquisite". This is.
Stu Scott and the Plebs
"The fine line between Pleasure and Pain". It actually is... fine!?
Stu Scott and Plebs, Oct 2017.
A short climb that will feel much longer. Straight forward fun.
Stu Scott and the Plebs, Oct 2017.
The arête. Use the last couple of bolts on Pleasure to reach the top. Inky Pinky start. A nice warm up for the Benthemite Trilogy.
Chuck McGibbon and the plebs, Oct 2017.
Rawl's Slabs
To the right of Bentham's Nose is a complex of slabs, broken about two thirds up by a wide ledge creating the unusual possibility for a two pitch sports climb. But first, another rarity, a trad crack and slab...
Rawl's Slabs Left
Good moves, well protected (small wires and medium cams) but dusty. The line on the left hand side of Rawl's Slabs. Up the corner at the left side of the slab, into a fine groove and flake to lower-offs.
Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland October 2017.
To the right of First Offence are a series of good quality easier slab climbs. The first two lines take the slab and wall to left of the tree.
To the right of First Offence. Climb the smooth slab to ledge, step right and then head up wall, moving left at top to finish at First Offence rap station. Harder if you climb direct without moving right.
Matt Crawford (Grandson)and Tony McKenny (Grandpère), Ben D, Edith A, March 2021.
Anyone who has spent a day "on the brushes" at Sand River will understand the name...
Line immediately left of the large tree. Neat climbing, excellent for the grade, on really good, clean rock. Up the short wall and continue up to left of crack. Finish at rap or continue up Addendum.
Tony McKenny, Matt Crawford, Bob Bull and Dave Stephenson, March 2021
A second pitch for The Meditative State and/or Swansong. An odd bouldery move up the corner and over a small roof to a nice hanging slab.
T. McKenny and J.Duff, Nov 2022
Line to right of tree. Again, neat climbing on great rock. Finish straight up the steep slab at the top or climb Addendum to the top rap station.
Tony Mckenny and some Plebs, May 2021
Jim Duff, Stu Scott, Carol Hurst with technical assistance from DB Sept 2020.
A mammoth cleaning undertaking has unearthed this lovely route just right of jugular. Thin start at 15 with slightly easier but sustained interest to the lower offs.
Jim Duff and Renae Ferrar 14/11/2020
Intricate thin start with good technical climbing left of The Parting Glass. Probably more like 18 if you climb straight up to the first bolt! Needs a bit more cleaning but rather nice.
Jim Duff, Dave Stephenson, Tony McKenny September 2021
Difficulties short but sweet. Climb past the obvious hole and blast directly up the blunt bulging arête. After the steep sequency crux the difficulties ease to pleasant climbing up the slabby arête and into groove
Domhnall Brannigan, Jim Duff and Jo Kippax 23/11/2020
About 20m round the corner to the right of Rawl's Slab is a massive cave high up and above a short slab.
Start at bottom right hand corner of the wall, bouldery moves straight up to a corner, through the overhang and on to the hanging slab above. Screw gate on first bolt is safer, and keep right when lowering off to avoid the cave!
Alt start to left is easier but can be a bit dirty from the loose stuff in cave.
Tony McKenny with Jim Duff, Nick Eccleston and Oliver Crawford, Sept, 2020.
Line on buttress to the right of Zippety. Crux moves out to right of the vegetation in the middle section. Steeper than it looks!
Jim Duff, Tony McKenny, Neale Smith and Bob Wilson, November 2023.
Hee Haw Buttress
Right of Rawl’s Slab is a small trackside buttress split by a central crack
Left line up the little buttress - longer than it appears at first glance
Jim Duff, Renée Farrar 12/20
Wall up the right of the buttress. Crimpy, but with a dynamic move
Jim Duff, Renée Farrar 12/20
Rib and Slab Buttress
50m right of Rawl's Slab is a buttress close to the track with a slab at its right hand side at the top.
So named as three generations of the family completed first ascent. Start at the left hang side of the buttress at a short crack, step right onto the buttress trending right to finish up the arête of the slab at the top.
J.Boucher, Cadi & Eli Pritchard, Lex,Toby & Bob.Bull. Feb. 2018
Up the dusty ramp right of 3G and the big cave is a rib topped by a short slab. Climb these - the crux is at the cleanest part of the slab. Rock slightly crumbly - take care - it should clean up with traffic.
Jim Duff, Neale Smith, Tony McKenny September 2021
Rib and Slab right
The Fall Zone
20m further on right, just before Buddy's Slabs, is another short buttress just by the path.
The Fall Zone
Short line up the sub-buttress left of Widow Maker
Jim Duff and the Plebs September 2021
Jim Duff with Oliver Crawford, Nicholas Eccleston and Tony McKenny, September 2020.
Jim Duff with Oliver Crawford, Nicholas Eccleston and Tony McKenny, September 2020.
Buddy's Slabs
Left of The Jail House Rock is a relatively easy angled slab. The scene of some epic cleaning but with worth while results as this provides some of the best introductory slab climbing in the area as well as a couple of easy trad routes.
Buddy’s Slab left
Buddy's Slabs
Starts left of the trad crack, takes the narrowing face (crux), then steps right over the roof and finishes up the pleasant juggy wall. Climbs rather nicely. Cumulative age of the first ascent party totalled 344 years.
Domhnall Brannigan, Jim Duff, Tony McKenny, Bob, Alex and Henry Wilson, and Murphy - June 2026
A rising left to right traverse - a bit of fun! Climb to second bolt of Murphy’s Eye, traverse right under the roof (extended protection can be arranged here in the cracks - a MOAC was placed on the first ascent), then across the third bolts of Dust Up and Brush Off, cross the crack of Join the Circus, clip the fifth bolt of Klink and finish at the DBB of Feeding the Rat. There are good cam or nut placements in all the cracks crossed. Needs a bit more brushing.
Domhnall Brannigan, Jim Duff 7th July 2026
A compact line at the LH end of the slabs, following the crack up the ramp and through the roof. Originally belayed from trees at the top, but the slope above is sketchy. With the subsequent addition of "Murphy's Eye", it is suggested that these anchors are used if climbing "12 or not".
Jacob Fisher & Brandon Exner, Oct 2019.
Lovely technical climbing with the crux between first and second bolts, then sustained interest to the top
Jim Duff, Domhnall Brannigan with emotional and technical support from The Plebs, 26/1/20
The crack line in the middle of the slab. Sustained and solid for the grade. Excellent.
Bob Bull and Plebs
A really nice trad crack climb. The crack immediately R of The Brush Off, climbing past the tree. Near the top either finish straight up to the Klink rap station, or under-cling off left to finish as for The Brush Off.
Ingrid Crossland & Ben Maddison November 2017
The wall and slab just right of JTC crack line. A delicate start followed by lovely slab work.
Jim Duff and the Plebs
The mean looking off width crack R of Klink. Not as worthless or dirty as it looks, though would be better with lichen removed. A pleasant easy solo or beginners climb, bridging with plenty of holds. No jamming or thrutching.
P.Robinson March 2026 ( May already have been climbed by some old codger to access the top and start their diligent and welcome lichen scrubbing)
Buddy’s Slab right
The long slab right of the chimney crack. Tidy climbing on good rock, good for the grade.
Tony McKenny, Stu Scott and the Plebs
The next two lines share a final bolt and the rap station at the top, and are cunningly bolted so you can mix and match to make your own variant (or possibly we got the bolts a bit too close together!).
The first line right of FTR. A wall, through a little roof and easy slab to finish.
Tony McKenny, and Bob Bull, Dave Stephenson, November 2019.
More of a wall climb than a slab. The line right of Yin,at the edge of the slabs. Move left at the top to the final bolt on Yin, and rap station.
Tony McKenny and Bob Bull, Matthew Crawford, Dave Stephenson, November 2019.
A bit of nonsense really but surprisingly good fun! Climb up to the 1st bolt on Yang, and make an ascending traverse up left, passing the 2nd bolt on Yin, the 3rd on FTR, the 4th on Klink, across to the 4th on The Brush Off, a move or two up and then across to the rap station on The Dust-Up
Dave Stephenson, Tony McKenny and Bob Bull, November 2019.
The Jail House Rock
Walking left a few minutes from where the track first meets the cliff line, this is the very prominent bolted buttress.
Jail House Rock
Climbs the left hand arête.
Dave Stephenson, Stu Scott and Tony McKenny, June 2017.
Starts at base of thin crack, a couple of metres right of arête. A hard bouldery start followed by varied climbing to the final crack finish.
Tony McKenny, Stu Scott and Dave Stephenson, June 2017.
Climbs the steep wall a couple of metres right of Guilty as Charged, finishing up the arête.
Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson and Tony McKenny, June 2017.
Climbs the right hand arête and trends right, sharing a bolt at mid height with Impeachment before climbing the steep head wall on the right.
Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson and Tony McKenny, June 2017.
A good alternative combination, at about the same grade, is to climb the first section of Special Prosecutor to the shared bolt, and finish up the top arête of Impeachment.
Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson and Tony McKenny, June 2017.
Jailhouse Rock Right
The trad crack several meters to the right of the Special Prosecutor arete. Nice jamming to an inconvenient tree, then follow the easy low angle crack and corner to the Special Prosecutor DBB.
B. Armstrong and J. Ridgers, Oct 2017
Tricky technical slab start (beware one flat hold tenuously attached) up via joyous jugs through first overhang with a mantle onto the hanging slab, then easier through second overhang and second hanging slab to DBB. Really neat climbing at the grade
Jim Duff, Domhnall Brannigan 3/2/2021
Nice climbing at an amenable grade right of IY, and just left of the slightly blocky arete. Thin start. Much better than a first glance would suggest - some lovely holds.
Jim Duff, Domhnall Brannigan 3/2/2021
Jailhouse Rock Right
Trail End Crag
The buttress just left of where the track meets the cliff, culminating in a massive orange overhang at its right hand end.
Climbs the left side of the blunt arête between Last Gasp and China Shop finishing through the slightly fragmented territory above.
Jim Duff and the Plebs September 2021
The thin crack on the left, passing over several small overhangs.
Bob Bull and Stu Scott, April 2018.
Trail End Crag
The wildly overhanging crack line in the middle of the buttress is a fine struggle with good gear and reasonable rock in the difficult sections. A number of large 'death blocks' have been removed from the top section and the climb is now approachable. Take left line on top section (rock up right line very fragile). You can either trad belay then move across to lower from FS anchors, or with long slings on top section belay might be possible from FS anchors.
Hamish Jackson
Just to the right of the corner on the left facing wall. Easy moves up to short wall then tricky move to arête and up over overhang and up easy angled slab to rings. Worth belaying here and savouring views down the valley before rapping off.
Bob Bull. Ben Maddison. Neale Smith. March 2018
Panopticon South
This area contains the best easier routes at Sand River combined with some neat test pieces. The rock is great and some of the routes are comparatively long.
You will soon enter private land. The farmer is great but he has clearly stated NO DOGS.
The track meets the cliff near a large cherry tree with a short, steep crag behind, Larceny Wall. Walking right for a few minutes leads you past a number of small crags before reaching Twin Towers, the two prominent buttresses joined at the top by an arch over a deep hole that are clearly visible from the other side of the valley. You are now on private land (the boundary is marked by a large painted pink arrow beside the track) for which limited access to Twin Towers has been negotiated by the CCT. Access has not been given for other cliffs on private land - do not jeopardise this and any future access issues by exploring further.
These crags mostly face west and are cooler than the north facing crags, not getting the sun until midday.
Larceny Wall
The steep wall has three excellent climbs on very good rock. Just a pity it isn't taller!
The steep and pumpy crack to the left, moving right at the top to the rap station.
T. McKenny and N. Smith, March 2018
The smooth bouldery wall just right of Chutzpah. Finish at Chutzpah rap station on left.
T. McKenny and O. Gervasoni, April 2018.
Climb the middle of the wall on layaways. Finish as for Chutzpah.
Stu Scott and the Plebs, April 2018
Around the corner to the right on the south facing wall. Climb a short hand crack, followed by exciting moves up the steep wall above. Excellent.
Bob Bull, March 2018
A different style of climbing is required for this steep line.
Neale Smith and the Plebs April 2018
A short walk further right leads to a prominent corner.
Kaiden Fox
Named after the land owner's son who waves at all the cars going past his house. Wide open book corner with small roof. Nice moves to the very last.
Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson, Neale Smith. April 2018
Traditional Cherry Pie
The nice looking trad crack just right of the Cherry Tree with double lower offs. Solidly protected with smallish to medium cams.
Carol Hurst and Stu Scott March 2018
Strolling Bones Buttress
Strolling Bones Buttress overhangs the track before reaching Black Face and Twin Towers.
Strolling Bones Buttress
Pleasant climbing up the steep red corner on the left, with the crux on the overhanging left-hand arête above, then easily up and right to lower offs.
Dave Stephenson, Bob Bull, Neale Smith. March 2018
Up the middle, crux going over the roof then the juggy overhanging wall above. Classy.
Dave Stephenson, April 2018
The overhanging right-hand arête. Easily up the crack on the right to the crux 1.5m roof (which may feel very similar to Let Them Lead!). Continue up the overhanging but juggy right-hand arête to lower offs; which is pretty cool - definitely worth doing in addition to LTL.
Dave Stephenson, March 2018
Redneck Buttress
The track passes beneath the next steep red buttress, with a prominent corner crack on the right hand side.
Redneck Buttress
Starts in the corner with an overhang in the middle of the red buttress. Steep in the first half then a nice slab to finish. Continuously entertaining.
Dave Stephenson, May 2018
The juggy corner crack, finishing with a harder move to reach the anchors on the left wall.
Chuck McGibbon, April 2018
Black Face
Black Face is the long black stained wall well above the track, running to the left of the Left Tower, reached by ascending “The Giant's Stairs” (another amazing construction from the Chucky Gnome).
Black Face Left
On the far left side of the Black Face. Crux passing a short bulge at the base, then straight up moving slightly left at the top past a second bulge and easier crux to the lower offs.
Dave Stephenson, Stu Scott and Neale Smith, February 2018
Just right of Paint it Black, on the left end of the Black Face. Gymnastic start and inky pinky finish. Fun climbing.
Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson and Carol Hurst February 2018
Follow the crack through various widths to the Stephen Hawking lower offs.
Chuck McGibbon, April 2018
He spent most of his adult life thinking about black holes.
Chuck McGibbon, April 2018
Black Face Centre
Up the slab and then climb the right facing corner. Dirty, and loose at the top.
Chuck McGibbon, April 2018
Left Tower North Face
Short routes on the left side of the Tower, accessed by ascending the Giant's Stairs below Black Face.
Left Tower North Face
A thin technical crux leads past the steepening.
Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson, Bob Bull. January 2018
Bridge up the short corner, then climb over the bulge and face above. Shares top bolt and lower offs with Tynee Tips.
Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson, Bob Bull. January 2018.
Left Tower West Face
Left Tower West Face
Slab then the pocketed wall above, finishing via several bulges on the left hand arête.
Dave Stephenson, Stu Scott and Bob Bull, February 2018
The prominent corner in the centre. A little bit of everything - wall, slab, roof, jams and layback, and all on superb rock. Lovely jubbly!
Tony McKenny and the Plebs, February 2018.
Bridge up short corner in middle of West Face, continuing up steepening above to finish up right arête.
Dave Stephenson and Stu Scott, January 2018
Right Tower West Face and Flying Buttress
Right Tower and Flying Buttress
Clean now. Start at a short corner, then follow the bolts up the middle of the face. Excellent.
Bob Bull, Lisa Summerfield, Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson. January 2018.
A clutch of excellent easy but fun climbs on really good rock grace the flying buttress to the right and below "Twas just a Dirty Thing".
Straightforward climbing but watch out for the sting in the tail! Climbs the left leaning diagonal and up the steep wall to finish on left.
T. McKenny, S. Eccleston, M. Crawford, , March 2018.
A steep, clean line on good rock up the corner that splits the buttress. Climb past the twin U bolts to finish as for Little Rocket Man.
T. McKenny, March 2018.
Takes the steep narrow buttress to the right, past the twin U bolts to finish as for Little Rocket Man. A testament to the efficiency of Chuck's portable leaf blower!!!
T. McKenny, March, 2018.
The crack on right of BITW.
N. Smith and T. McKenny, March 2018.