Risdon

20-45 mins
Sandstone

Introduction

There are some sandstone boulders near Risdon Brook Dam. The rock is quite mixed, and it’s a bit of a walk up the hill, but there is some good climbing to be had quite close to town.

Access

From Lindisfarne drive north a few kms to the round about and turn right to go to Risdon. Just past the roundabout is a left turn into the Risdon Brook Dam area. The gate closes at 4.30pm, so park here if you are going to be later than that, otherwise drive up the hill to the parking area. From the parking area walk down the hill and along the eastern side of the lake. About halfway down the lake the track turns right to follow around a bay. A few metres after this there is a fire trail heading up to the right. Pass through a gate, and after a few hundred metres of uphill the track goes over a rise and then slightly down to where it forks into three tracks. Take the middle one straight across the hill, and after a minute or two you should start seeing some scrappy rock above the track. Keep going until you can see the overhanging wall of the main crag, and then head up to it. The approach takes 20-25 minutes, and about half that by mountain bike.
For Butterfly and Grasstree boulders, take the straight-ahead track at the fork and follow it up the hill then back left for 5 minutes to the boulder just up R of the trail.
TasWater close the park when there is a severe weather warning (sigh), check the BOM http://www.bom.gov.au/tas/warnings/ before you go (TasWater don't seem to list it on their site). Also note the closing time of the park so you don’t get locked in.

GPS

Main Wall

Unnamed

V?(Highball, Stand)

Project - Off large hueco to blank slopey top out

Unnamed

V?(Highball, Stand)

Project - up lay-away flake, large dyno to dish and slopey desperate top-out (Big!)

Green Glass Doors

★V7(Stand)

Start as for 2, but head right around arete to finishing holds of 3. Optional topout (it's usually rather dusty!).

Party in Paris

★V6(SDS)

Traverse right to left along the obvious line to the jug. Optional topout.

Hammer Strike

★★★V11(Highball, SDS)

Sit start on left side of cave, climb up through middle of cave and head straight up the crack and edges to the slopers on the lip. High delicate mantle top out. Classic

Adam Bogus, 2017

Unnamed

V8(Stand)

Start hanging on the lip and mantle onto the slab. The sit start is a hard project.

Unnamed

V0(Stand)

Slab

Blue Tongue Cave

Follow the lower Main Wall track passed the Main Wall for a couple of hundred meters until you pass a tree close to the track on the upper bank. Head straight up the hill from here to the cave.

The cave is about 5 mins further along the track from the Main Wall. The cave is difficult to see from the track.

Wombat

★★V2(SDS)

Start on the jug flake. Worthwhile.

The Flake of Fear

★★V4(SDS)

Start at the back on rounded pedestal. Finish with a classic high heel roll over.

10.

Cobwebs

★V3(SDS)

Start on the hanging flake with feet under roof.

Butterfly Boulder

This free standing boulder is up and to the right about 50m from the main area, just above another fire trail. There are some easy/moderate problems that look like they were cleaned at some stage.

Grasstree Boulders

Follow the fire trail next to Butterfly Boulder for another 1km up the hill. After it goes up the hill up some zig zags past Split Rock, it goes back left past a series of good boulders right next to the trail, along the edge of a fence. The rock here is quite a bit better than lower on the hill. It's about 40-45 minutes and 2.7km total walk from the carpark, or 20-25 minutes on an mtb/ebike.
They are described left to right as you look at them from the trail.

The first problems are up to the left of Zero Day.