Roches Beach bouldering
5-10 min
All day
Dolerite
Access
Drive along the Acton Park Rd (either from Lauderdale or Acton Park) until it meets the Roches Beach Rd. Turn and drive along Roches Beach Rd then turn left onto Nowra. Drive along Nowra for 150m then turn right onto Kirra Rd. Parking is at the end of Kirra Rd where the Tangara trail can be accessed by a track beside the last property.
Walk along the Tangara trail until you can walk down to a small beach. The problems are around from the Northern end of the beach. The walk from the car is about 5 minutes.
GPS
The Main Area
The main area comprises a grouping of slabs, block and steeper cave area.
A little contrived in avoiding the big foot hold on the next line at the top out.
The Block Area
The Block Area is 5mins past the Main Area.
Walk along the Tangara trail past the main area (small beach) until a fork that goes towards the water. Follow the fork towards the water until near a big dead tree. Head for the top of the waterside cliff trending right (South). Follow the cliff top until you can access the rocky beach and blocks.
The Block area has a range of nice problems to while away some time in pleasant surroundings. Many of the problems are well above the waterline so should be accessible at high tide.
Sit start with hands on the low protruding nob, step up onto it and finish direct up the wall above.
Jack Colbeck 31/10/22
Sit start just left of the corner with the chockstone. Trend slightly left to the top.
Kat Colbeck 31/10/22
The left arete of the wall on its right side, starting at the low break.
Jack Colbeck 29/10/22
Up the wall between the left arete and the crack, starting at the low break.
Jack Colbeck 29/10/22
The nice thin hand crack, starting from the low break.
Jack Colbeck 29/10/22
Sit start on the ledge, block for feet, straight up.
Jack Colbeck 29/10/22
Sit start below the prow and climb directly over it.
Jack Colbeck 29/10/22
The easy stepped crack.
Jack Colbeck 29/10/22
The nice technical face on small holds.
Jack Colbeck 29/10/22
A nice problem on the back side of the Monumental Block. Standing start, up to undercut, then good holds in the middle of the wall. Make a fairly long move up and right and then to the top. Quite high and not the best landing.
Jack Colbeck 29/10/22
Start with left and right sidepulls
Start on jug.
The Mouth is a small cave to the right of the Monumental boulder. Topping out the problems involves easy climbing and a long walk (otherwise downclimb or jump off when standing above the lip). Seems like there are a few options for traverses and variants to the obvious lines.
Start on lip jug and pinchy undercling. Head left to the arete and up.
Low start to Lip Servant, adds a couple of moves. Start with left hand on obvious square corner and right hand on small flake down and right under the roof.
Jack Colbeck 18/11/22
Sit start on the two sidepulls down and left of the crack, left hand up to good hold on Lip Service, then reach right to the crack and layback up it. The direct start from the hidden rail down and right still needs to be done.
Jack Colbeck 11/11/22
Burly.
Start on the hidden rail, to the right of the crack.
Traverse the low break left to right.
Jack Colbeck 29/10/22
Start on the ledge on the south face.
Start on the big undercling and throw to the top.
Stand start, up to the roof then head left and mantle onto the ledge.
Jack Colbeck 29/10/22
Start on the upper left corner on the block. With hands on top, traverse downhill and all the way around the block, back to where you started. Pumpy.
Jack Colbeck 29/10/22
Start with the high right crimp and mid left arete. Pop to the top then mantle it out.
Look to be three variations the lower the RH starts the harder the problem.
Sit start with hands below the perched block, reach out to the arete, work hands up then rockover onto the slab.
Jack Colbeck 31/10/22