Taroona
1 min
All day sun
Dolerite
Introduction
The Taroona boulders have some nice problems on wave sculpted dolerite. Access is very easy and they have a pleasant location. An ideal after work area. At high tide a lot of the boulders are under water, so check the tide before coming.
Access
For Marys Grange Boulders, drive down Sandy Bay Road and continue on into Taroona. Turn left down Grange Ave and park at the bottom of the hill. Follow the short track to the beach and emerge at the first boulder. For Crayfish Pt Boulder, continue on for a km or two until Taroona Cr. Drive down this to the shore, and park at the far left of the park. Take the bitumen path along the shore past Bachelor's Grave. Just past this are some steps which lead down to a pump house on the shore. The boulder is just past this.
GPS
Marys Grange Boulders
The first, largest boulder which is pretty obvious when you get to the shore line:
Climbs the arête/face furthest left (around the corner), staying predominately on the left face. Technical with a couple of intricate foot moves and a thought-provoking, slopey topout. A great problem!
CW
Sit start on left of face and follow diagonal line up and right
Start as for the previous problem but go straight up via crack.
CW
Up friction slab and face.
Project? - arete
Stand start from good edge, up and slightly right to small holds in seam, top out
Up slab
Up groove
Up on right end of face
Traverse diagonal line right to left and top out
There are a couple of short poxy problems on the blocks in front
Sitstart and mantle
Sitstart and mantle
Further on there are a couple of squarish blocks with some easy problems. Further on again is a free standing block with an overhung north face.
Sitstart on edge on left side of overhang, up and right to jug then to top
Same start as for Salty, match jug then bust to sidepull crimper. Topout in middle of boulder.
Sitstart under arete to the right of Salt Encrusted, with one hand either side. Climb up the arete, topout on right.
There are some more blocks further on that have not been developed yet due to the fact they need a very low tide.
Crayfish Point
Left face
Seam on left side of steep front face. The sit start is a hardish project.
The right arête of the front face. Easiest by going up right, harder if you go direct. The sit start might go.
Unnamed
V0(SDS)Sit start just left of the back right arête.
Unnamed
VE(SDS)Easy angled arête at the back right.
Unnamed
V0(Stand)Slab on back of the boulder.
Crayfish Ridge
★VE(Stand)The prominent nose above the track about 30m past the punp house as you walk from Taroona beach offers a pleasant problem.
Eli Pritchard