Waverly Park
5 min
Sunny
Sandstone
Introduction
Waverly Park on the eastern shore of Hobart provides some nice sandstone problems with easy access. The park contains four areas - Rosny Rocks, The Reservoir, Bellerive Boulder, and Clarence Crag. Access for each is described below.
GPS
Rosny Rocks
Drive over the Tasman Bridge to Rosny. Just after you pass the shopping centre you will reach a roundabout. Turn left at this and continue past a couple sets of traffic lights, then turn right onto Quarry Road. Drive to the end of this road and park at the gate of Waverly Park. The boulders are visible up the hill on the left. Walk up the track for a few minutes and then turn left onto another track just before a large stump. This track goes pretty well straight to the boulders and takes about 5 minutes. Follow the line of boulders to the left to the obvious overhanging prow on the first topo. There are a few more easy problems on the aretes and slabs up to the left.
Up slab
Sitstart at right side of overhang, up to slot then straight up
Start as for previous, out to chipped jug, then straight up
The steepest section of the overhang is very hard on small holds. The landing is pretty bad though, so a top rope may be prudent as the hardest moves are at the top. The Jacksons have managed to do this problem without using the chipped holds as 'a worthy statement against the absolutely crap chipping effort'.
Start on the jug on the right side of black cave behind the steep prow. Traverse leftward on small pockets
Just down to the right is a small cave
Start in the cave on underclings and climb out
The vertical wall to the right. The following problems all have lichenous topouts, brush them before climbing.
Arete
Up face to lichenous mantle
Juggy face to hairy topout
Pockets on face 1m left of crack
Crack
The right hand side of the face
Arete and face
Start at arete and traverse leftwards to finish up 1
Up face and capstone
Go right up face
Further down to the right are the first rocks you encounter when accessing the area. The landing is pretty bad.
Up arete and face
Rightwards up face
The Reservoir (aka Mornington Rocks)
These nice boulders are one of the best spots for after work bouldering in Hobart. They also stay reasonably warm on winter afternoons, but seep after heavy rain. Follow the map and park where marked, at the gate off Aruma St. Walk up the road to the reservoir. Skirt around on the left and follow some dirt tracks to directly behind the reservoir. The top of the boulder is another 20 - 30 meters just before the hill drops off, facing down the hill towards the highway. The rock is a little sandy in places, but the access is very easy, so its worth a look. Be careful of the rock here after rain - quite a few holds have broken off when they have been damp.
Erosion has been an ongoing problem at this boulder. Erosion matting has been placed to try and stop the landings heading down the hill. If its showing through at all get some dirt and leaf litter and scatter it around over the landing areas. Please don't remove ground cover.
The small boulder to the left of the main face has a couple of short and very easy problems good for absolute beginners or kids.
The Left Side
Left arete of face
Project - start as for Mr Brown and traverse the whole crag rightwards to finish up Scorpions
SDS and up the left side of the face to slopey top out
SDS and up centre of face to nasty slopey top out
Start at right side of face, up and slightly left to jug then straight up left side of groove to top out
Start as for Mr Blonde up to the jug, then traverse leftwards along the line of jugs, and finish up Mr Brown. A great warm up.
Start as for Mr Blonde, but go right up seam then up right side of groove to desperate top out.
Start as for no. 6. but traverse rightwards on thin holds along lip to finish up Reservoir Dogs
Up diagonal crack from awkward sitstart, either on slopers or underclings. Most people use the big flat sloper on Reservoir Dogs as well.
Start as for Nice Guy Eddie, at the start of the crack. Move up to side pull / underclings in crack then straight up using sandy pinch. Up to lip then exit up right.
Sit start on the big flat slope and up. Some people think this is pretty hard for V3, but my response is - go see how hard a V3 is in Hueco!
The Right Side
Start as for Reservoir Dogs, do the first two moves to the slopey crimp and traverse right via big move into Dis-Abeled and finish as for same.
T. Krauss Feb, 2013
SDS on the jug, climb straight up, avoiding the left hand diagonal. Can be done as a stand start at about V3.
A better line that Dis-Abeled as it's not contrived by not using the left hand diagonal. SDS start on the Dis-abeled jug, make a move straight up to the bad crimp above the big right hand side pull, instead of going straight up head slightly right using series of side pulls for the right hand and slopey crimp with the left.
Simon Bischoff, Alex Hartshorne 2020
Project - sit start just right of the arete, up to lip then straight up line of slopey side pulls. Mega hard.
Start as for Scorpions, traverse left and finish up Reservoir Dogs, may be easier in the cold
Stand start using slopes on top of roof and go left to top out. A sit start project exists
SDS up rib and bridge up left corner to top. Don't reach right.
Climb the slab and corner just to the right of Scorpions
Up nose right of Scorpions
Unnamed
V1(Stand)Left side of slab to the right no. 7. Don't use crack on L.
Unnamed
V1(Stand)Centre of slab.
Unnamed
V2(Stand)Right side of slab, don't use layaways on R edge of slab
Clarence Crag
A new area that is development. On the same hill as the Reservoir, facing Clarence and Bellerive. Some nice sloper problems and highballs.
Bellerive Boulder
This area has a handful of good problems. It is on the hill facing Bellerive, and tends to be a bit wet and cold in winter. To get there park as for Rosny Rocks, in Carawa Street. Walk up the track to the top of the hill, then turn left on to a sandy track. Keep going straight ahead on the foot pad which ends up at the top of the boulder.
MGA94 (GDA94): 55G 0531523mE 5253606mN
Project - from the far left of the boulder traverse L-R to finish up Joker's. Very hard past the arete.
Sitstart at two pockets on the left hand edge of the boulder and up over bulge, going left to finish (going right is harder)
Sitstart on good flat hold, right to double pockets and up to slopes on lip
Mantle on big flat hold
Sitstart at arete and then traverse leftwards 5m to finish up no 3. You could keep going leftwards to the end, but the moves aren't all that good.
Up the arete, starting with bulge then on to sketchy slab
Face and mantle 2m right of the arete.
There are some more problems on the boulder to the right of the main one.
Bellerive Beach
V0(Stand)Sandy jugs opposite Joker's Jackpot
Sitstart and up over bulge