Falcon Crag Bouldering
Introduction
This is the main boulder field at Hillwood and sports everything from small overhangs and slabs to large highball faces and cave like roofs. There is something for everyone amongst these boulders.
A decent field of boulders spread out along the Western side of Falcon Crag.
Approach: Updated March '24. Access is now once again clear to the boulder field. There are two main access options - described below...
Access #1 - From the carpark, continue straight past the old quarry junction following the rough vehicle track around to the L to reach the junction for Falcon Crag/The Far Side. Instead of turning R up the hill - continue straight over the cut log and down the cut track through the bracken to the boulders.
Access #2 - From The Chessboard, pick up the signposted + taped track towards Rock of Ages. Part way along the paddock, at another "Rock of Ages" signposted pole, veer R to the edge of the escarpment (cairn) + a cut track which heads down to the boulders via a large gully. This links in to the track which drops down from the junction to Falcon Crag/The Farside (Access #1).· From: theCrag
History
Discovered and developed initially by Ben Thorp and Mark Polinski. Wade Bone chipped in with the classic Witching Hour but most of the history of this area is yet to happen.· From: theCrag
GPS
Hotspot Blocks
The boulders in the pit depression at the very northern end of the Falcon Crag gulley.
Approach: Approach either via ROA track and drop down to the right, or via Rock Of Ages Boulders by walking towards Falcon Crag and coming over the top, or via the bouldering track through the gulley of Falcon Crag· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
sit start on thin rail, big move to start of the vent and top.
Tommy Krauss, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
sit start on rail rock onto slab and top out via juggy rails
Brother Odin, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Stand start in compression, head up and right via good holds, to big move to lip
Elliot Vercoe, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start on the diagonal, make some compression moves and head straight up. Stay left of Stromboli
Tommy Krauss, May 2024 · From: theCrag
sit start on flat jug big move up then head left through seams and jugs to bulge top-out.
Brother Odin, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
sit start same as Stromboli, big first move and continue straight up via jugs to easy top.
Brother Odin, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
First Boulder
This is the first boulder you get to when dropping into the area from the north or Rock Of Ages access· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Second Boulder
This is the second boulder you get to when dropping into the area from the north or Rock Of Ages access· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Hang start on the lowest jugs under the arete, doo one or two overhanging moves, then rock up onto the slab
Mark Polinski · From: theCrag
Rotary Block
This is the low boulder just north of Pit 12 and Pit 13· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Sit start with left hand on incut undercling and right hand on slopey lip. Once at the jug, head up and left via a mantle
Tommy Krauss, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Start as for 360 No Scope but head right from the jug via similar yet very different manlte
Tommy Krauss, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
The Understory
This is the boulder underneath the Witching Hour· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Sit start with left hand on good incut edge, right hand on starting hold of Holly. Make a big move and head left to better holds
Tommy Krauss, May 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start on good diagonal hold and move up and right to good top out
Tommy Krauss, May 2024 · From: theCrag
Start with left hand high on good sloper and right hand on lowest pinch, head straight up
Tommy Krauss, May 2024 · From: theCrag
Marksman Boulder
Uphill slightly from the valley and just opposite The Witching Hour sits this big, almost house sized boulder.
Approach: Approach as for Witching Block· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Stand start then climb up the middle of the slab and top out.
Bevan Ashby, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Start just right of the V0 and head up the slab to the left of the arete. Finish as for Bring Out The Guns Direct
Tommy Krauss, Jun 2024 · From: theCrag
Climb Bring Out The Guns to the good hold on the arete then climb up the slab and top out.
Bevan Ashby, May 2024 · From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Fantastic arete. Hard first move then keeps on going up the arete to finish topped out via mantle through the jug. As long as some routes at Hillwood.
Mark Polinski · From: theCrag
Start matched on the big flat rail, head straight up and sharp left to meet the arete, finish as for Bring Out The Guns. Originally established at V11 before crux hold broke.
Yusaku, Sep 2024 · From: theCrag
Start on same large flat rail as Fujin and head right to arete to mantle
Yusaku, Sep 2024 · From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Next arete around from Mark’s Mega Proj. Traverse around the lip to rock-over onto the slab above.
Ben Thorp · From: theCrag
Sit start on the good opposing sidepulls down low, move up to the slopey jug, head hard left via flat edges to arete. Follow arete to angle turn and mantle
Tommy Krauss, May 2024 · From: theCrag
On the face to the left of Slabtastic is a good little wall problem. Crimpy moves to start then an easy but high top-out.
Ben Thorp · From: theCrag
Witching Block
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Stand start and head up through the middle of the boulder
W. Bone · From: theCrag
Voodoo Blocks
Little nook of boulders just north east of Roadblock· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Stand start on left arete, follow arete to mantley top out
Brother Odin, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Stand start on right hand crimpy sidepull and left hand gaston, head straight up via topout just left of the nose
Tommy Krauss, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Start as for Bold As Love, from the jug head right to top out between nose and arete
Tommy Krauss, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Stand start on sidepull and gaston at chest height, head straight up to mantle
Elliot Vercoe, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start low on good right hand side pull on arete, follow arete to slopey top out
Tommy Krauss, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Mega project, holds are all there, sit start low to high top out, lots of compression and body tension, one of the best projects around
From: theCrag
Stroll Block
Stroll Block/Pit 12 is made up of two boulders just past the Roadblock Boulder.
Approach: Same as for Roadblock or Pit 15, from Pit 15 head south into the Falcon Crag gulley via the lowest point in the gulley· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Sit start with left hand on large arete sloper and right hand low on good side pull. Top out at the highest point
Hannah Rose, 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start from LH sidepull/RH matchstick undercling then climb up trending slightly leftwards and top out. No stacking pads for the sit.
Bevan Ashby, Jun 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start from LH crimp sidepull/RH matchstick undercling then climb "Sharon." No stacking pads for the sit.
Bevan Ashby, Jun 2024 · From: theCrag
Stand start on big jug, head up large side pulls
Elliot Vercoe, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start as for "The Stroll" then climb "Sharon".
Bevan Ashby, May 2024 · From: theCrag
Stand start on the two touching gastons, hard moves trending leftwards to the top. Stay away from the arete
Elliot Vercoe, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit Start on diagonal Left-hand Crimp and Incut Right-hand just above head height, and finish as for 'The Stroll Stand'
ElliotShirley, May 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start as for "The Stroll" then climb up using the right arete and top out.
Bevan Ashby, May 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start from LH side pull/RH flat edge then climb up the arete and top out.
Bevan Ashby, May 2024 · From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Sit start on the large diagonal and head left or directly up to jug
Elliot Vercoe, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Roadblock Boulder
Just off vertical tall boulder at the end of the bouldering track.
Approach: Best approached via bouldering track coming down into Falcon Crag gulley and walking to the very end of the track or via ROA track at first cairn on the right down the steep rocky slope then turning left· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Stand start from LH sloper/RH crimp then climb up and top out.
Bevan Ashby, Jun 2024 · From: theCrag
Start as for A Pigs Tail but head left via big moves at half height to meet the arete, follow the arete to the top
Joe Schwarz, May 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start matched on the small, crimp rail then climb "Art Of The Snake".
Bevan Ashby, Jun 2024 · From: theCrag
A very worthy link up. Start as for Art of the Snake Sit, move up then right on poor feet linking into, and finishing up No Fat Westies.
Mark Mcgiven, Aug 2024 · From: theCrag
Stand start on good right hand slopey edge and left hand on incut sidepull down low
Ali Roush, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start matched on the small, crimp rail then climb "A Pigs Tail."
Bevan Ashby, Jun 2024 · From: theCrag
Stand start from small LH crimp/small RH sidepull (lower then the good, broken edge) then climb up trending leftwards topping out as for "A Pigs Tail."
Bevan Ashby, Jun 2024 · From: theCrag
Stand start from small LH crimp/small RH sidepull (lower then the good, broken edge) then climb up and top out.
Bevan Ashby, May 2024 · From: theCrag
Last Drinks
This is the boulder with the deep roof to the right of Roadblock when coming down the main trail· From: theCrag
Start as for Let It Rip, exit left at the dyno sloper to top out.
Patrick Munnings & Tommy Krauss, Sep 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start deep in the cave on left hand slopey rail and right hand good sidepull, make several big moves to the sloper and fire straight up to the big jug. Mantle and head up left for exit.
Jordan Grant, May 2024 · From: theCrag
No Pants Boulder
Next to the access track. A south facing boulder with a few logs resting on top.· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Sit start with left hand as low as possible on arete and right hand wide on good flat hold. Avoid boulder on the left
Asyraff, 2026 · From: theCrag
Sit start as low as possible with left hand on crimp sidepull and right hand on slopey crimp. Up via pocket and spike to the good flat hold and continue directly up on small crimps.
Patrick Munnings, 2026 · From: theCrag
Sit start on good flat hold. Follow good holds trending right and back left to top out.
Asyraff, 2026 · From: theCrag
Start as for Captain underpants. At the flat hold climb right to top out right of the log.
Asyraff, 2026 · From: theCrag
Squat start on pedestal right hand on very good low sidepull and left hand wide on sloping sidepull (just right of the small pocket). Stick to the arete to top out right of the log.
Nuri Mohamad, 2026 · From: theCrag
Sit start with right hand on excellent sidepull and left hand on good sidepull on the right of the pedestal. Trend left to top out left of the log
Patrick Munnings, 2026 · From: theCrag
Duke Block
20m Uphill from the Vintage Block. A steep boulder with a highball slab to finish the problems. Worth while inspecting the routes from a top rope before climbing as a fall from these routes could be serious. Most development to be done here still.· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Climb the overhanging arete before pulling the lip and finishing up the easy slab. Stand start with right hand on massive side pull, and left hand on the arete. Using the big boulder on the ground for feet goes at v4.
Harley Mills, May 2025 · From: theCrag
Stand start with left hand on blocky side pull, right hand on positive hold low on the lip, and double heel hooks. Climb the diagonal lip up and left before shifting back right. Make a big move to gain the deceiving lip. Stay calm and mantle onto the easy slab.
Harley Mills, May 2025 · From: theCrag
Vintage Block
Head up via the steps between Block 2 and Block 3 to the overhanging face. Fair bit of cleaning still required.· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Sit start low, left hand on flat sloper and right hand just next to it on okay slopey edge
Elliot Vercoe, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Sit start on the arete with left hand on sidepull and right hand on flat edge at head height, hard first move leads to easier topout.
Tommy Krauss, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Start as for Vintage but head right after first move, follow the slopey wave feature for several metres and mantle up via good holds
Tommy Krauss, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start on the two good staggered edges, big moves lead to the same topout as Vaporwave
Tommy Krauss, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start around 1.5m right of Vaporwave on large diagonal sloper, hard first moves
Low flake has broken providing a better foot to start, until this breaks off the climb is significantly easier.
Elliot Vercoe, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Stand with left hand on good incut sidepull and right hand around the arete in the crack like feature, follow arete and top out.
Ali Roush, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Slug Rock
The short and blocky boulder just left of Block 2. Fair bit of cleaning still required.· From: theCrag
Sit start with right hand on good jug and left hand on flat jug, head up and top over centre of boulder
Brother Odin, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Hirudinea Block
This is the second large boulder you get to when walking down the new bouldering track. Fair bit of cleaning still required.· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Start as for Blood Worm and head left to easy terrain
Brother Odin, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Sit start on the arete and move onto the face for an easy but tall finish
Tommy Krauss, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Block 1
This is the first large boulder you get to when walking down the new bouldering track. Fair bit of cleaning still required.· From: theCrag