thesarvo

Far Side Bouldering

15 Problems05VE-23-56-89+

    Introduction

    Previously this was the epicentre of bouldering at Hillwood but has si. Still some potential for new routes. Eastern side of Far Side climbing crag. The problems here are some of the best around.

    Approach: Old access was via the Rock of Ages Track but is equally straight forward via the new Far Side track. Far side track, albeit being a tad steeper in a single section shaves a good 10 minutes off the access for most of the southern boulders.· From: theCrag

    History

    Initially discovered by Ben Thorp and Darius Khadembaschi before being developed further by Mark Polinski. Previously this was the epicentre of bouldering at Hillwood until the developments of 2024; with lots of potential for new problems still there, it might come back to prominence at some point in the future.· From: theCrag

    GPS

    Pillar of Fire Boulder

    These problems on a distinctive feature of the boulder on a boulder.· From: theCrag

    2.

    Zendagi

    V5

    SDS. “zendagi” is Persian for “life”. Committing jump for the top to finish. Climbs to the right of the arete

    Mark Polinski · From: theCrag

    3.

    Font 7C

    V9

    Stand. Start LH layaway at chest height - to moves out R

    Ben Thorp · From: theCrag

    Magic in da Hillwood Boulder

    The long traverse boulder with some very distinctive Hillwood climbing.· From: theCrag

    thecrag-9331854675.jpg4Magic in da Hillwood Boulder

    Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag

    4.

    Magic in da Hillwood

    V3

    Hang. R to L traverse

    Ben Thorp · From: theCrag

    5.

    Secret Dinasaur Parts

    V4

    SDS. Traverse up + R

    Ben Thorp · From: theCrag

    Shadowfang Block

    Approach: This boulder sits in the gully just to the right of the end of the Far Side Track· From: theCrag

    Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag

    6.

    Shadowfang

    ★★4mV7

    Sit start with both hands on the obvious flat edge and feet on the white corner underneath, head up straight

    Elliot Vercoe, May 2024 · From: theCrag

    Uphill Boulder

    To get to these boulders walk up the hill behind the Pillar of Fire. The boulders are on the right, drop down into a small enclosed area between the boulders to find the awesome arete of Man Hands, V8.· From: theCrag

    7.

    Standing on Dignity

    V5

    Scary top out has yet to be done, step off onto the boulder.

    Mark Polinski · From: theCrag

    8.

    Thief in the Night

    V7

    SDS. Traverse to the right then topout through easy ground (V0). Traverse is harder than it looks.

    Mark Polinski · From: theCrag

    Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag

    9.

    Man Hands

    4mV8

    To get to this block, head uphill from Pillar Of Fire to a cluster of boulders slightly towards the right. Go over the first blocks and drop down into a depression to the right hidden from sight when at POF. Looking downhill, the face to your left has Dirt Burglar and Comprehess on it, the face on the right is Man Hands.

    Stand. Start compressing arete at chest height, make some desperate moves to a high and slopey topout. Sit start is definitely possible but a fair bit harder. Potential line to the right as well

    Mark Polinski · From: theCrag

    10.

    Dirt Burgler Stand

    V7

    Stand

    Ben Thorp · From: theCrag

    11.

    Comprehess

    V7

    SDS? Compress up arete without using R wall

    Mark Polinski · From: theCrag

    Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag

    12.

    Block Party

    V10

    Sit start in the back of the cave, do some funky moves with cryptic beta and top out over the slightly less fun landing

    Mark Polinski · From: theCrag

    its life jim

    a wonderful boulder right next to the access track for far side and "its life jim" grade 19 sport route

    Approach: walk for far side access and nearly all the way along the base of the cliff. massive overhanging boulder will be seen from "its life jim"· From: theCrag

    13.

    lip traverse

    8m

    sit start at the lowest point on the lip of the boulder, traverse left along the lip turning the face and continue to most obvious exit

    From: theCrag

    14.

    left hand face route

    sit start up left hand gaston and under cling to big dead point move to top out

    From: theCrag

    15.

    right hand varient

    sit start on the big pregnant belly and take the right hand variant up the face to massive finish

    From: theCrag