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The Columns

82 Routes010203040<1616-1920-2425+TradSport
  • Walk15 min downhill or 20 min uphill
  • SunMorning sun
  • RockSpearing dolerite columns, up to 110m high

Introduction

The impressive cirque of columns that starts immediately right of Flange Buttress and ends where it merges with Amphitheatre Ledge. The experience of climbing in the Columns is often character building and sometimes epic! Routes here are steeper, more serious and increasingly 'tradified' than those on nearby Flange Buttress or Northern Buttress. The Shipwreck provides a good vantage point from the base of the cliff for learning the topography of the Columns. Five distinct columns in left to right order aid route finding.

At the left hand end, the deep chimney of Brown Madonna marks the end of Flange Buttress and the start of the Columns. Cairn Column is the first column right of this demarcation zone. The trio of Battlements Column, Split Column and Double Column sit closely together in the centre of the Columns, whilst Cossack Column occupies the head of the cirque at the right hand end.

Access

The Columns can be accessed by either a top-down or a bottom-up approach.

The means of access for routes on Battlements, Split and Cossack Columns is predominantly a top-down approach. To access the top of the Columns drive to the summit. Right of the summit lookout (GPS MTW100), head down to pick up a track with orange markers that descends to the top of the Columns amongst a patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110). For detailed notes on access to individual columns from this waypoint, consult the body of the text.

The means of access for routes on Cairn Column and Double Column, is predominantly a bottom-up approach. To access the base of the Columns drive to the climbers' carpark and follow the track uphill to the Organ Pipes track junction, then continue up either the Northern Buttress track or left and up the Flange Buttress track. For detailed notes on access to individual columns from this point, consult the specific sub-section for each Column in the text below.

The Columns Overview

The Columns OverviewCossack ColumnSplit ColumnDouble ColumnBattlements ColumnCairn Column Area

(Image straightened to correct for lense distortion)

Columns Cliff Plan.png

Cairn Column

Cairn Column stands prominently at the left hand end of the Columns on a ramp of broken rock forming the base of the southern columns. A pile of rocks on its summit resembles a cairn. Routes on Cairn Column are predominantly accessed using a bottom-up approach.

Bottom-Up Access
For access to routes on Cairn Column walk left along the Organ Pipes Track for approximately 150m, arriving at a climbers' track junction (GPS MTW030) that heads right to Flange Buttress. The track heads up initially through bush, then follows a prominent boulder lead to reenter the bush close to the base of the cliff near Bert's Fear, an obvious body-width chimney on Flange Buttress. Take the right fork and follow the base of the cliff uphill to the reach Brown Madonna, a right facing corner and chimney that marks the end of Flange Buttress. Routes in the Cairn Column area start immediately right of here. Rap stations exist at the top of Brown Madonna (1 x 50m), Tower of Power (1 x 60m), the Best Route in the Gorge (1 x 15m), Serendipidy (1 x 40m) and the Brush Tail Extension (1 x 30m; 1 x 50m). For other routes use the Bert's Fear rap route (GPS MTW170), (1 x 15m; 1 x 35m; 1 x 50m).

Top-Down Access
For access to routes on Cairn Column requiring a top-down approach, walk right from the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) as viewed looking towards Hobart. Walk along the cliffline past Double Column, then past Split Column with its distinctive twin 'ears' of rock, then past Battlements Column with its large sloping capping rock, to reach Cairn Column a short distance further on. It is distinguished by a pile of rocks on top that resemble a cairn.

1.

Pink Car

★50m16↓
An unassuming route that takes the crack line 1m right of Brown Madonna.1. 25mClimb the vee-chimney to the hanging flake on the left. Move out right, up the wall and then climb the crack on the left.2a. 25mOriginal Route: Continue up for 15m and take the left line to the large ledge at the top of Brown Madonna.2b. 25mDirect Route: Straight up to a large ledge. From here traverse left to the Brown Madonna rap anchors.

M. McHugh, L. Closs, R. McMahon, Nov 1971.

2.

The Great Bitch

★★55m19↓
A superb mix of face and crack climbing on the steep wall 8m right of Brown Madonna. A memorable first ascent in that one of the intrepid leaders had left a boot at home, necessitating a boot being lowered to his second after each lead!1. 35m 19Climb the short thin wall to reach some precariously stacked blocks. Move left and up the crack awkwardly to negotiate the bulge. Easier climbing up the line leads to a stance at the top of a pillar on the right wall. Steep jamming leads to a belay next to a spike.2. 20m 17Continue up chimney/corner past a short layback section. About 12m above the belay a narrow foot traverse leads out left to the Brown Madonna ledge and rap anchors (50m).

L. Closs, I. Lewis, Dec 1973.

3.

Canis Minor

★62m19↓
A worthwhile and unique route for the Organ Pipes, that ascends the left hand side of the Tower of Power.1. 35m 19Climb the first pitch of the Great Bitch.2. 27m 18Continue up the chimney/corner past a short layback section as for Great Bitch. At the top of the corner instead of traversing left, swing right on to the face of the pillar looming above. Up the intermittent layback cracks between horizontals, using the right arête at times. Rap off from the top as for the Tower of Power (60m).

M. Jackson, H. Jackson, Apr 1998.

4.

The Tower of Power

★★★60m2519Þ ↓

"I can stand about an hour on the Tower of Power; as long as I gets a little golden shower" (Frank Zappa, 1979). The massive arête 7m right of the Great Bitch. Climb face and arête with the crux at one-third height. A #1 Camalot or #2 Friend may be useful about 3/4 the way up to avoid a run out section. Trend left near the end to finish at rap station on top of the tower (1 x 60m).

N. Hancock, D. McConnell, Dec 2003.

5.

Best Route in the Gorge

★15m244Þ ↓

Aren't you in the wrong place my friend? Scramble up scrubby ledges right of Tower of Power to a sloping stance with a DBB. Climb the thin face and blunt arête. Rap station with 2 fixed hangers.

D. McConnell, Nov 2003.

6.

Birthday Treat

27m18

An exception to the bottom-up approach. Accessed by abseiling 45m from the top of the Columns to a large bushy tree. Climb the hand and fist crack in a shallow orange corner to the left of the final pitches of Piccolo.

D. Fife, Phil Steane, 1982.

The descent for routes between Piccolo and F-Sharp is via the rap station above Bert's Fear (GPS MTW170) unless otherwise stated: (1) 15m from boulder to ledge; (2) 35m to Brown Madonna terrace; (3) 50m via Brown Madonna rap station to the deck.

7.

Piccolo

90m16
The notoriously tight chimney behind the small pillar above and right of the Tower of Power (the Tower of Piccolo). Start well to the right of the main climb below a scrubby terrace.1. 40mClimb easily to the terrace that leads left to the start of the Firebird and Pooh Corner chimneys.2. 15mPiccolo Wall. A few metres left of Firebird is an unlikely looking wall which overhangs in places. This pitch finishes on a large sloping scrubby ledge.3. 30mPiccolo Chimney. Ascend the chimney at the far left of this ledge, which narrows uncomfortably at the halfway point and finishes on the crest of the Flange Buttress.4. 5mTower of Piccolo. Start on the south side and gain the summit of the tower by transferring to the west side. Vacate the tower by a spectacular but easy leap – or so they say...

T. Christie, A. Keller, Jan 1966.

8.

Serendipity

★★40m19↓

A clean corner line found halfway up the cliff. Access from bottom via a scramble and climb up to the base of Piccolo Wall, left of Firebird, and climb the 15m wall to the base of twin corner cracks. It is possible to access from above but this requires leaving a fixed rope and jugging out upon completion. The climb follows the corner with a thin crack on the left to the ledge 20m from the top of the Pipes. One third of the way up where the crack thins, there are two alternatives:
(a) Go straight up.
(b) Traverse left onto the arête, up 3m then back right into the corner. Continue up the left hand side of the corner past a small tree and up a layback crack. Move right onto the slab and scramble left to the DBB bolts. Rap off and scramble back down. The line above has been climbed (grade 20) but is deemed suitable only for masochists.

P. Robinson, C. Hewer, K. Robinson, Dec 2005.

9.

Firebird

65m18
A direct line marred somewhat by loose rock and sporadic vegetation that starts 15m left of Cymbal. Scramble up 40m as for Pooh Corner to a scrubby terrace beneath two chimneys.1. 25mUp the left had chimney past loose rocks at 15m to a claustrophobic stance in the chimney.2. 20mContinue up the heavily vegetated chimney and corner to a good stance below the final corner.3. 20mCrux. Straight up corner above to a ledge, then up the nasty scrubby corner above. Might be a tad undergraded by today's standards, and more vegetated than when it was first climbed.

J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968.

10.

Pooh Corner

★72m17
Worth doing on the basis of the first pitch alone. Scramble 40m up the vegetated and loose choss 15m left of Cymbal pitch 1. The route starts at a chimney in the right of a small square amphitheatre, 2m right of Firebird.1. 42mClimb up via an awkward chockstone crux to a sloping grassy stance among bushes.2. 30mContinue up, passing a bush, and from the grassy ledge continue up chimney on left to top (Cymbal takes the right corner - probably the best way to go to avoid the vegetation).

J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968.

11.

He Spoke Human

★★32m24

Nauseatingly thin gear with a few loose blocks at the start lead to fantastic bolt protected climbing! Climbs the dihedral and face to the right of Pooh corner. The final rooflette and slab are equipped with 3 bolts. Even with the bolts this route should not be taken lightly, especially if climbed ground up. Ball nuts are very useful and micro cams are essential. Rap anchors (32m).

S. Bischoff, G. Soler, Jan 2014.

12.

Whodunnit

126m19
This route may have been climbed earlier, as there is an old peg of unknown origin on the third pitch. Takes the obvious crack line immediately left of Cymbal pitch 2.1. 36mAs for Cymbal. Easy climbing, bushy.2. 30mStart up a short layback and step right into the crack. Up this until a small ledge is gained in a widening of the crack line.3. 30mLaunch up the offwidth above and continue through a small roof (peg) then slightly right to finish on the Cymbal belay ledge.4. 30mFinish up one of the Cymbal pitch 3 variants (first ascent took the Original Route).

N. Deka, T. McKenny, Feb 1990.

13.

Anomia

★★60m24Þ ↓
Climbs the orange buttress left of Tularaemia. Access by continuing right and upwards from the bottom of Tower of Power.1. 33m 22Varied and unusual climbing; 15 U Bolts.2. 25m 24Steep and juggy climbing leads to a crux after clipping the fourth U; 7 U bolts.Note: if descending on a single 60m rope it is probably best to go down via the belay on Aphasia as then both raps are within the 30m range (although a single 60m does just make in down pitch one on stretch).

R. Parkyn, H. Hancock, April 2013.

14.

Aphasia

★★★28m24Þ ↓

Climb Anomia to the fourth bolt and then wander easily a few metres right to below the shallow groove. The fun begins! Sustained and interesting climbing to DBB (which is about 5m below the belay for Anomia 1 - it is possible to scramble up to that belay if needed).

R. Parkyn, D. Rollins, May 2013.

15.

Cymbal

★108m15
A unique subterranean experience with a swag of variants.1. 36mAn access pitch that requires a scramble over vegetated and loose terrain to reach the base of the base of two chimneys and the start of the climb proper.2a. 42mArguably the better variant (and marked on the topo). Climb the left hand chimney over jammed blocks and then continue up the excellent crack and chimney continuation, until a large belay ledge is reached on the left.2b. 42mDeep Chimney variant. Takes the right hand line up a crack that opens out into a deep chimney with a prominent chockstone. Near the top, either traverse left and up to the large belay ledge as in 2a or continue up to a ledge on the right to belay if intending to finish up the Vice (see Cymbal Named Variants below).3. 30m 15At this point it is highly recommended to climb either the Vice or one of the two other variants listed below. However, if you still insist on climbing the original last pitch, who are we to stop you? Drop (not literally) off the left hand edge of the large ledge onto a small ledge and belay in the corner. Climb up past the vegetation and up the right hand corner exiting behind a huge chockstone in the roof. Either climb the chockstone crack above or make an exposed traverse left into a chimney and surmount the chockstones.

D. McKelvey, T. Terry, Jan 1966. Deep Chimney: M. Douglas, J. Morley, Jan 1966.

16.

Cymbal Named Variants

★★30m16/20

It was once fashionable to climb these named variants as alternatives to the final pitch of Cymbal. Contemporary trends in access now utilise a top-down approach to reach their starts. Immediately right of the top of Cairn Column as viewed looking towards Hobart, set up anchors and abseil 30m to the large belay ledge at the end of Cymbal pitch 2.

* Dick the Despot. 20. The obvious off-width crack directly above the ledge. A couple of #4 camalots make the crux at 7m much more palatable! Continue up the widening crack and exit right onto the face where necessary.

Jungle Jim. 18. Needs a clean! The twin cracks 3m right of Dick the Despot. Stem and chimney up past the vegetation until near the top. Revert to jamming the right hand line up and over the summit bush.

** The Vice. 16. A great pitch that has been neglected for many years. The corner with twin cracks 5m right of Jungle Jim.

Dick the Despot, A. Adams, N. Deka, May 1991. Jungle Jim, N. Deka, A. Adams, May 1991. The Vice, J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968.

17.

No Beginning and No End

★20m19M0

A crazy line starting at a seam halfway up the south side Cairn Column. Rap 40m from the top of Cairn Column to an airy hanging belay at the base of a thin crack on the south side of the column. Probably safer for the belayer to stay attached to the abseil line. Pleasant climbing up the face and thin finger crack to a ledge. Follow the fist size crack until it widens to a crux 3-4m from the top. DBB at a platform on ‘The Brush Tail Extension’. Exit by prussik or climb the last pitch of Brush Tail (28).

P.Robinson, K.Robinson, April 2013.

18.

Tularaemia

★★★50m25Þ ↓
Climbs the arête of Cairn Column. From the base of Brown Madonna scramble up and right for about 100m to the spectacular orange face below the overhangs at the bottom of the Column.Link pitch 1 & 2 for one of the best long pitches on the pipes (long draws required).1. 30m 25A sustained and technical pitch, step right onto the face at the 4th bolt then up through the overhang and arête above. 20 bolts.2. 20m 24Balancy climbing continues up the arête. 15 bolts.

C. Hewer (p1&2), Jan-Feb 2012.

19.

The Brush Tail Extension

★★30m28Þ ↓
Two pitch extension of 'Tularaemia' adds 30m of additional climbing and increases the grade.3. 15m 26Fridge climbing up the two arêtes to a tricky finish. 8 bolts.4. 15m 28Straight forward climbing interspersed with a thought provoking boulder problem. 8 bolts.

K. Robinson (p3&4), Jan-Feb 2012.

20.

Firebrand

★80m20
Recently upgraded from 17 to restore some battered and fried egos. The conspicuous black, dirty, sometimes wet, chimney (sounds a cracker doesn't it!) on right hand side of Cairn Column. Scramble for a couple of rope-lengths through the mulga to the foot of the chimney.1. 33mStraight up corner to belay above numerous dead bushes.2. 27mUp narrow chimney to belay above a large pile of chockstones.3. 20mBridge and jam up the line, then left through roofs, to finish back R (crux).

Pitches 1 & 2, and 3 to within 10m of the top: J. Moore, P. Jackson, R. Williams, Mar 1967. Pitch 3 done with aid by C. Dewhirst, J. Moore, Feb 1968. FFA: M. Steane, J. Burgess, Apr 1976.

21.

F-Sharp

100m18
Difficulties are confined to a small section at the end of pitch 2, but loose and mossy rock makes the route a serious undertaking. Start almost directly below Daedalus at a small embayment in the base of the cliff, below a double crack line that cuts the upper part of the cliff.1. 34mFollow one of two lines from the top of a small gully to a stance adjacent to a bush.2. 30mClimb the fine corner crack, over a bulge split by two cracks (crux), to a large stance.3. 36mUp the crack and off-width line above to the top.

J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968. FFA: D. Bowman, L. Wood, Dec 1977.

Battlements Column

Battlements Column is a forward-standing column capped by three turret-like rocks that is situated in the centre of the Columns. When viewed in profile, a large slab of rock caps the detached summit tower, connecting it with the main cliff. Routes on Battlements Column are predominantly accessed using a top-down approach.

Top-Down Access
For access to routes on Battlements Column walk R of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) as viewed looking towards Hobart. Walk along the cliffline past Double Column, then past Split Column with its distinctive twin 'ears' of rock, to reach Battlements Column with its large sloping capping rock. A rap station next to the capping rock provides access to the start of Freedom (1 x 30m). In the gully to the R of the capping rock and down 15m is the Daedalus rap station (1 x 55m – GPS MTW150). which accesses routes that start from the ledge alongside Icarus.

Bottom-Up Access
For access to routes on Battlements Column, follow the Northern Buttress track uphill to the base of Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010). Take the LH fork and follow the track up to the Shipwreck (a large rock that some folks think resembles a shipwreck). To approach Battlements Column from here walk straight across across the gully to the base of the column. Descent from routes requires a short walk around the cliff line to Cossack Column Rap station (1 x 6m; 1 x 50m) or a scramble down Exit/Entry

22.

Armchair Ethics

35m23↓

Accessed via top-down approach. Fix abseil rope to the Daedalus rap bolts, then walk south 4m to abseil 35m down the steep dihedral L of Once in a Lifetime, passing a small ledge 6m down. Belay on a pillar with a big tree as an anchor. Follow finger crack/seams back to the top, moving L onto face for a few metres at half height to avoid fused section. Well protected (take lots of tips/fingers size gear), with a bouldery crux at the top.

A. Lewis, S. Young, Jan 2011.

23.

Once in a Lifetime

★★★55m2618Þ ↓

Hancock’s better half doubted his ability to send this baby after three years of repeated spankings! A sustained long pitch in a great position. Rap in from the Daedalus bolts and swing L across face to a small ledge with DBB (60m abseil). Climb the arête L of Daedalus in one monster pitch. Technical moves with good rests.

N. Hancock, Jan 2008.

24.

Daedalus

★★55m20↓
Get in shape for Yosemite. The classic crack on the wall L of Claret Corner. Rap in from the top via the U-bolt rap anchors (55m) to the large ledge at the base.1. 35mEnter the crack a couple of metres below the bottom L corner of the ledge. Climb easily for about 13m to a pea-pod scoop. Climb the steep off-width crack for 6m, passing a very old bolt (not recommended for use, originally placed by Ewbank during an early 1960s attempt), then move onto the L wall for another 6m before returning to the crack.2. 20mContinue up the crack to the top.

H. Barber, L. Wood, Apr 1975.

25.

Cruel But Fair

★25m23↓

Access from above using the U-bolts at the top of Daedalus to abseil down to another pair 25m down the wall. Follow the finger crack back up to the top. Good natural pro all the way in a range of sizes.

R. Parkyn, Feb 1998.

26.

Claret Corner

★109m15↓
The route up the corner full of immense jammed chocks in between Daedalus and Icarus. Start at base of the cliff directly below the corner1. 40mClimb initial crack and continue up to large ledge at foot of main corner.2. 34mClimb the corner to a recessed stance.3a. 35m 14Continue up chimney. Some loose rock near top.3b. 25m 16From the recessed stance, step L and climb thin crack until a move can be made back R onto the face L of chimney. Bridge and face climb to top, finishing over bulge. Avoids the slippery and difficult chimney. Rap station as for Daedelus.

D. Groom, A. Keller, J. Moore, Dec 1967. (3b): T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Mar 2002.

27.

Icarus

★★★78m20↓
You can't train for this sucker in the gym. This sensational line is on the Southern face of Battlements Column, below the monolithic boulder wedged across the notch between the pillar and main wall. Originally climbed from the ground up, this is now vegetated and avoided by abseiling from the U-bolts at the top of Daedalus (55m) to a large ledge with a bollard belay. Start off the RHS of the ledge and don't forget to take plenty of hand sized pro!1. 30mClimb the short crack off the ledge to step R and enter the main line. Awkwardly enter the bottomless chimney (crux) and continue up into the tight chimney to exit through a bulge. Keep jamming the sustained hand crack to a small belay ledge on the R. The thin crack with a peg on the L goes nowhere and is usually festooned with 'tat' left behind by folk trying to avoid climbing the chimney!2. 48mClimb the hand/fist crack and bulges in behind the huge pillar to the notch. Continue up behind the pillar through the window in the rock, then follow the line right of the wedged boulder to finish via the final corner. Top-out and massage your thumb muscles.

C. Dewhirst, J. Ewbank, Feb 1968 (3 bongs were used on the first ascent on pitch 2 for a rest, and 3 pegs to protect pitch 3). FFA: H. Barber, L. Wood, Apr 1975.

28.

Freedom

★★25m30Þ ↓

One of the hardest route on the Pipes and a magnificent line, taking the arête and wall to the R of pitch 3 of Icarus. Access via a 30m abseil from rap station above the slab that caps Battlements Column, to the Middle Battlement (top of pitch 2 of Battlements). A technical boulder problem at half-height offers some amazing moves in an outrageous position and should be enjoyed by all. A finger-sized cam can be handy to protect the post crux section.

J. Bresnehan, Feb 2010.

The next seven climbs start on the lower section of Battlements Column and so are best accessed from below, using the track passing Northern Buttress and the Shipwreck.

29.

Close to the Sun

★★★48m2315Þ
Beautiful dolerite with classy climbing. Start 1-2 m right of the original first pitch of Icarus (which is not described in the above description for Icarus but is the groove/chimney about 8 m left of Incision, which is the really big black chimney). The start is easily accessed, via the bottom of Incision, from the track between Flange Buttress and Ship Rock.1. 33m 2315Þ Follow the U's up a nose of rock to a crux crossing the bulge (at about the eighth U). After that, climb the arete (another seven U's) to a ledge and DBB.2. 15m 237?Þ Continue up the arete until a bulge forces a reach left (crux). Continue up the arete to another good ledge (DBB).3. 15m 17The crack starts wide and gets wider (no fixed pro, a #6 Camalot may be useful). Not recommended but this would provide connection to the ledge below Freedom (no rap anchors).

Roger Parkyn, Nick Hancock (alt leads), Heather Hancock, Feb 2016.

30.

Bismark

★★100m24
Once an old aid route, this is the impressive line up the middle of Battlements Column. Take offset wires, RPs and long draws. Start at the base of the cliff.1. 20m 24Climb crack at base of Battlements Column to ledge at 5m. Step past loose blocks and climb shallow corner and thin cracks above (crux) to next ledge. The climbing is very approachable for the grade and protection is spaced out, but good.2. 40m 21Climb the front of column to it's top.3. 40m 14Drop off back of column and climb straight to top of cliff.Descend either as for Close to the Sun from near the top of pitch 2; or climb the final easier pitch and rap as for Daedelus.

D. Groom, J. Moore, Jan 1968. FFA: (2 and 3) K. Lindorff, K. Rosebery, Feb 1977. (1) K. Carrigan, P. Bigg, 1982.

31.

Incision

104m18
A good landmark. This is the prominent wide chimney on the RH side of the Battlements Column, which closes down after 15m into a crack.1. 24mStart at the base of the cliff and climb the chimney, following the crack through the roof until it widens again. Move up and L around the arête to belay on a ledge on Bismark.2. 30mMove back R into the line and pass the roof by climbing the L arête. Continue straight up to join Battlements above Mad Dog Chimney.3. 50mAs for Battlements.

(1) K. Lindorff, K. Rosebery, Feb 1977. (2) P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1979.

32.

Sirius

★40m20

A long and pleasant ramble. Climb past the first two U's on Dark Nebula then branch left (past another 3 U's) to cracks (trad gear) for the middle third of the climb. There are three U's on the upper section, which is about 2 m left of Dark Nebula. Take a double set of cams (#0.3 to #1 camalot) and a set of wires.

Roger Parkyn, Owen Gervasoni. Jan 2017.

33.

Dark Nebula

★★35m2117Þ

Up the buttress right of Incision (which is the big dark cleft). The last U before the top DBB is doubled up, with the intention that this provides a rap-option with a 60 m rope: it does, but only just, on stretch, and only if you're not a lightweight, so take extreme care [or, better, use two ropes, or a longer rope].

Note: This route can be climbed entirely on trad protection. Take a double rack of cams between .2 and .75 with triples of .4 and .5 and single 1, and 2. Small and medium wires protect the middle section of the route - these placements are bomber, but require care to get right.

Roger Parkyn; Owen Gervasoni. Nov 2016.

The deep chimney crack line to the right of Dark Nebula was originally climbed as an alternative direct start to the old climb Battlements, or as the first pitch of Sandy Bay Road. The first pitch of Split Column apparently started 2m right again, up a short corner, leading to a flared hand and finger crack, possibly just left of the next climb, Ford Prefect.

34.

Ford Prefect

★12m165Þ

Climb up the black wall.

Roger Parkyn, Owen Gervasoni. Jan 2017.

35.

Datsun Sunny

★12m178Þ

Unusual climbing on the sculpted rock left of the big corner.

Owen Gervasoni, Roger Parkyn. Jan 2017.

36.

Battlements Direct

★40m17

Good value and worthy of inclusion separately. Start at the base of the cliff and climb the corner crack on the right of Datsun Sunny, directly below Split Column, to the Lower Battlements platform. Abseil off or finish up Battlements.

Unknown

37.

Plymouth Satellite

★★20m2311Þ

On the orange buttress right of Battlements Direct and about 15 m right of Dark Nebula. Join the dots.

Roger Parkyn; Owen Gervasoni. Nov 2016.

38.

Battlements

118m15
Traverses across other climbs in the area. Some good climbing, but gradually disappearing into the jungle.1. 35mUp central cleft of Double Column to long scrubby ledge. From LH end, climb wide crack to large platform known as the Lower Battlement. Move 4m down from LH end of platform.2. 40mMad Dog Chimney. Follow easy line diagonally through the mulga, trending L. An obvious interior line leads to an airy balcony to L – the Middle Battlement.3. 43mLayback corner crack and continue up past an old peg (still there in 2007) to ledge on rear face of final tower (a harder alternative is to traverse R when halfway up layback and then up). Continue straight up the difficult crack, past another old peg (2007), to notch and then finish via grotty chimney. Better but harder is to climb clean-cut crack to the R above the notch, traversing back L at the top.

M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Apr 1962.

Split Column

Split Column is immediately right of Battlements Column. The top 25m of Split Column looks as if it has been split with an axe and at the very top are two ear-shaped rocks. If you look carefully from below, you can see a sinuous hand-crack snaking its way up the nose of the column into an ever-widening crack below the top. This is the line taken by pitch three of Split Column. Routes on Split Column are predominantly accessed using a top-down approach.

Top-Down Access
For access to routes on Split Column walk R of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) as for Battlements Columns. Walk along the cliffline past Double Column, and across to the top of Split Column with its distinctive twin 'ears' of rock. Located on the RH ear in a vee groove is the Ultrahard rap station (1 x 35m – GPS MTW140), which accesses routes from the ledge at the start of pitch three of Split Column.

Bottom-Up Access
For access to routes on Split Column, follow the Northern Buttress track uphill to the base of Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010). Take the LH fork and follow the track up to the Shipwreck (a large rock that some folks think resembles a shipwreck). Access to the base of Split Column is further to the right and up the gully from Battlements Column. Descent from routes requires a short walk around the cliff line to Cossack Column Rap station (1 x 6m; 1 x 50m) or a scramble down Exit/Entry.

39.

Sandy Bay Road

★★35m18↓

Uncompromisingly traditional. The prominent fist-sized crack left of Holiday in Cambodia has left those not accustomed to the style confused and bleeding. Originally climbed from the ground up via what is now Battlements Direct. Instead rap-in to do the final excellent pitch as for Ultrahard.

Climb the obvious fist crack on the wall just left of Holiday in Cambodia. The crack takes #4 Camalots for most of the route, and there is also a variety of smaller gear in horizontals along the way.

L. Wood, M. Tillema, A. Bush, Dec 1976.

40.

Holiday in Cambodia

★★★30m21↓

Sustained, energetic and some say hard for the grade. Straight up the flared tight hand crack in the corner past two small roofs (crux), then try not to fall-off from exhaustion on the good hand jams to the top. Take plenty of medium - hand sized cams.

P. Bigg, S. Parsons, 1982.

41.

Ultrasound

★★★30m23↓

Thin and thought provoking. The line found just R of Holiday in Cambodia.
Climb Holiday in Cambodia for 10m (until just below the first rooflet), hand traverse right into the next crack and follow this to the top. Lots of very small - medium cams and wires are the go.

S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982. Originally climbed by starting from the niche halfway up Split Column and traversing in, but the described route is much better and less inconvenient.

42.

Split Column

★★★40m19↓
Engages and focuses the climber fully! This route once started at ground level 2m right of Battlements Direct. Now done simply to experience the final pitch and avoid the first two mediocre and vegetated pitches. Rap in via the Ultrahard rap station (35m) to the ledge for the final 3-star pitch.1. 40mThe pitch you all want to lead. Up the corner as per Holiday in Cambodia for 6m to a thin traverse line leading R. Traverse for 3m (across Ultrahard) then follow the sinuous hand crack up the nose to a niche. Follow the widening line past the twist to the top with the able assistance of one's love for #4 RPs.

G. Child, K. Carrigan, Feb 1978.

43.

Ultrahard

★30m26/294Þ ↓

The self-explanatory direct start to Ultrasound. Rap in to the ledge. Climb up Holiday in Cambodia for 2m then reach R and clip the first bolt. From here move R into the line and up past 4 bolts, before finishing up Ultrasound where a trad rack including small to medium cams and wires is required.
The obvious direct start involving a hard, crimpy boulder problem has been done at around grade 29 (Ultra-ultraHard, j Clemens and H Jackson 2025).

S. Parsons, Nov 2006.

44.

Soliton

★★35m20

Position, position, position. High quality climbing up the exposed line below and R of the last pitch of Split Column. Abseil down the NW side of Split Column to belay in a R-facing corner, not far above the large bushy ledge 50m from the top. Step L onto the face and climb through balancy moves with spaced gear to the thin crack. Follow the crack (crux) and then the easier arête to the ledge of Split Column. Finish up this.

H. & M Jackson, Mar 1998.

For the next two routes, rap down the wall to the L of the LH ear (facing out) on top of Split Column.

45.

Face What You Fear

★★15m23

A hidden gem. Belay in the chimney on the RH side of the wall at a grassy ledge next to a horizontal break about half way down (wires and hand-sized cams for belay). Traverse left out to the rattly fingers / tight-hands splitter in the middle of the face. Up this, then negotiate a short wide section (#5 handy) to a respite, before finishing over the final bulge.

P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982.

46.

Fear Inoculum

30m22

Belay on the grassy ledge at the base of the wall. Start up thin crack, traverse L to the next crack and continue up line to the hand traverse on Face What You Fear. Reverse this, then climb the thin line above to rejoin FWYF at the wide section and finish as for that route.

D. Rollins, Z. Sonstegaard, Jan 2020.

47.

Midnight Cabbage

110m15
Interesting and varied climbing, if a little jungle-like now, up the RH side of Split Column. Start directly below Split Column at the crack on the R.1. 40mStraight up the crack and reverse the downclimb section on Battlements to belay on the Lower Battlement.2a. 30mMove R for 2m and follow an obvious line over a bulge to a large ledge, as for Coleslaw.2b. 30m 17Direct variant: Follow the jam crack for about 5m then step R and climb a short wall. Move up to the base of the huge chimney behind Split Column.3. 40mAscend the chimney to the top.

M. Tillema, D. Klees, 1972. (2b): P. Treby, T. Brooks, Jan 1974.

Double Column

Double Column is the double column immediately right of Split Column and separated from it by a shallow gully. Double Column is forward standing, approximately 100m high and split by a conspicuous crack/chimney line. This is the line taken by Double Column Central. Routes on Double Column are predominantly accessed using a bottom-up approach.

Bottom-Up Access
For access to routes on Double Column, follow the Northern Buttress track uphill to the base of Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010). Take the LH fork and follow the track up to the Shipwreck (a large rock that with some imagination resembles a shipwreck). To approach Double Column from here walk across and up the gully to the base of the column. Access to routes on Hiawatha Ledge is further to the right via a chimney and a scramble up steep grass. Descent from routes requires a short walk around the cliff line to Cossack Column Rap station (1 x 6m; 1 x 50m) or a scramble down Exit/Entry

Top-Down Access
If approaching from the summit Double Column is the first column R of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) as viewed looking towards Hobart. The top of this bulky column is separated from the main cliff by an 8m deep moat, making abseil access difficult. To access the base of the routes via abseil it is best to walk L from the patch of snow gums and use the Cossack Column rap station (1 x 6m; 1 x 50m) to reach the base of the Columns. From here walk down the gully and across to the base of Double Column. Another option is to down-climb Exit/Entry.

48.

Coleslaw

105m17
Not the best diet for good climbing.1. 27mAs for Battlements (Original Route). Belay on the Lower Battlement.2. 27mStraight up to a large ledge.3. 30mUp on the R for 3m and traverse L onto a small buttress in middle of the gully. Where the buttress ends, continue up the wall (crux). Step R into a crack and after 3m move R into a corner.4. 21mContinue up until behind Double Column then up the easy crack to the top.

J. Moore, V. Kennedy, Nov 1967. FFA: Phil Steane, N. Ward, Apr 1983.

49.

Strange Angels

★★40m2316Þ

No beginning and no end but a worthwhile climb on superb rock.

Access: Walk from Mt Wellington summit down, and then scramble (or roped up) to the top of the pillar. Setup a gear belay (#2 & #3 Camalot; there are also two glue-ins that look like they were placed by high-liners) and rap 55m to DBB at a good ledge. Check that you have at least 20 draws before you rap!

The Climb: Ascend the arete left of Double Column Central to a move right at the fourth bolt, then back left and continue up the arete past a mantle-shelf move to where it steepens and becomes blanker. Climb directly up the arete and then move right to a finger crack which leads to a DBB (15m from the top of the column).

Decent: Either jug the fixed line to get out (15m jugging then 15m scrambling) or climb right into Double Column Central and climb out that.

Nick & Heather Hancock. Jan 2017.

50.

Double Column Central

★77m17
Famously on-sight soloed in the rain by Henry Barber in the 70s, it takes the conspicuous crack/chimney line up the centre of Double Column. Reached by a scramble from the R, and start L of the recess on the Double Column proper.1. 23mClimb the chimney to a stance in a small cave.2. 23mContinue with difficulty straight up the groove through a bulge. Follow the chimney to another cave stance.3. 16mClimb the roof split by two cracks immediately above the stance. Either follow the off-width crack, or the corner on the R, to the base of a tight chimney. Squeeze through to a stance.4. 15mStraight up the final chimney or escape through the back of the column.

M. Douglas, T. Terry, Apr 1967. FFA: B. Kennedy, L. Closs, Oct 1970.

The next routes start in a recess immediately R of Double Column Central, where a substantial ledge extends across the recess beneath the start of these routes. This is Hiawatha Ledge and it is approached from the gully below via a 15m chimney and a scramble up steep grass.

51.

Mind's Eye

★★70m24
The arête R of Double Column Central. Starts off Hiawatha Ledge. As well as quickdraws, take a rack of cams up to hand size, with doubles (maybe triples) around finger size.1. 30m 24Climb the blocky arête to belay (10 bolts and finger sized cams).2. 40m 24Up face and arête past 5 bolts, then up pumpy finger crack for 15m to more bolts. Move R along shelf to squeeze chimney. Finish delightfully up this to the top. Belay takes cams to hand size and/or you can sling a pointy boulder a few metres back from the edge.

J. Bresnehan, Feb 2009.

52.

Split Decision

★57m21
The steep crack on the LH wall of Hiawatha Ledge just L of The Cordoban.1. 12m 21Climb the steep flared finger crack on the L face for 10m, trending L to a belay on the arête.2. 45m 17Follow the widening corner crack to the top, which starts with fingers and ends as a walk.

N. Deka, G. Cooper, Jan 1989.

53.

The Cordoban

★93m17
An adventurous day out that has sandbag potential. Best done when dry, it takes the line behind the RH column of Double Column. Start at foot of corner at LH end of Hiawatha Ledge.1. 24mUp the black lichen-laden corner through a constriction to belay on ledge.2. 20mCrux. Follow RH crack until below loose swinging door of rock (attempts to dislodge it have failed to date). Switch to LH crack and climb up to pea-pod stance. Revert to RH line and climb wide crack to ledge 6m above (a #4 Camalot feels reassuring).3. 10mChimney up narrow crack, step onto R wall at 7m and belay on ledge above and to R.4. 18mContinue up main chimney and climb up leaning column. From top, exit R through back of large flake onto large belay ledge.5. 21mFrom RH end of ledge, climb corner awkwardly past bush and up through scrub to top.

J. Moore, P. Stranger, Feb 1967.

54.

Play Spot the Poss

85m17
The most enjoyable pile of choss you're ever likely to climb. The direct line in the middle of the ledge between the Cordoban and Hiawatha.1. 45mClimb the crack to below the roof capping the vee-chimney. Continue up the hand cracks on the L, which become dirty, to a belay at the foot of the leaning column.2. 40mContinue up the chimney and corners on the R.

G. Cooper, Pete Steane, Feb 1984.

55.

Hiawatha

★80m17
An entertaining direct line. This route located at the RH side of the ledge and starts at the base of the crack/chimney L of Moments of Inertia.1. 36mStraight up to a small ledge on the R. Continue up the crack to a ledge.2. 44mContinue on past a block at 10m, up the side of a huge flake to a stance on top of it. Up the crack directly above past loose blocks to the top.

J. Ewbank, D. Groom, 1969.

56.

Moments Of Inertia

★70m18
Deserving of more attention, the 2nd pitch is a treat. This route is the corner line on the far RH side of Hiawatha ledge.1. 25m 18Climb the wide crack in the corner to a large vegetated ledge.2. 45m 16From the middle of the ledge climb the hand crack through the break and follow the line directly to the top, deviating L to the arête at one point to avoid a dirty fused corner.

G. Cooper, A. Adams, Jan 1991.

Cossack Column

Cossack Column occupies the head of the cirque at the right hand end of the Columns. Right of Double Column is a wide curving stretch of wall that ends at a closely joined twin column that is 65m high. Two large wedge shaped blocks cap the summit. Routes on Cossack Column are predominantly accessed using a top-down approach.

Top-Down Access
Cossack Column is located about 40m left of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) as viewed looking towards Hobart. The Cossack Column rap station (GPS MTW120) is located here (1 x 6m; 1 x 50m) and is used to access routes in the vicinity of Sky Rocket. Carrot Top rap station is located by following the curve of the cliff line further around to the left. The hangerless carrot bolts provide access to Carrot Top and The Early Bird (1 x 20 m). Amphitheatre rap station (GPS MTW130) is further to the left again (1 x 50m) and is marked by a blue dot, and used for access to routes in the amphitheatre. Further left of Amphitheatre rap station and downhill is the top of Exit/Entry a grade 7 scramble to the base of the cliff that requires care to descend.

Bottom-Up Access
For access to routes on Cossack Column, follow the Northern Buttress track uphill to the base of Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010). Take the LH fork and follow the track up to the Shipwreck (a large rock that that some folk think resembles a shipwreck). To approach Cossack Column from here walk up the grassy gully towards the bottom of Exit/Entry then across to the base of the column.

57.

Duckling

★★30m26/27R

The line just left of Killer Canary. Up corner crack via stems and laybacks to a flared crack on the face. Awesome but runout climbing past fiddly gear leads to a short flared crack before joining Killer Canary at the end of the traverse. Small offset cams are pretty much essential to protect it adequately. You can start from the grassy ledge at wide 16ish but it's not that great, a small ledge about 12m up is comfy and avoids it.

Alex Hartshorne, Feb 2019.

58.

Killer Canary

★★52m22
A brilliant and unlikely line up the arête just L of Where Eagles Dare Not (WEDN). Right of Hiawatha, a conspicuous forest of sassafras (a distinctive light-green bush) fills the final 10m of a crackline near the top of the cliff. This is the line of WEDN.1. 15m 18Climb pitch one of WEDN, belaying at first obvious ledge.2. 35m 22Move L and ascend the discontinuous cracks just L of the arête with increasing difficulty. Just before reaching the small ledge on the R (awkward belay possible), traverse L onto the face and climb tricky face and cracks to the top.

S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, 1982.

59.

Where Eagles Dare Not

100m18
Most folk rap off below the conspicuous forest of sassafras bush fhat fills the top 10m of this route.1. 10mUp a short chimney, through a hole to a large ledge.2. 25mFollow a dirty chimney to an off-width crack (crux). Continue to a belay on top of loose blocks.3. 23mClimb the crack to an exposed stance on the R.4. 16mMove up to the sassafras, set up a sling to belay then or rap off.5. 26mAlternatively aid L on pins along a horizontal break to a ledge then scramble to the top.

I Lewis, K. Carrigan, Jan 1974.

Access for the next few routes is possible by abseiling in from above. Although this may be easier, abseiling down one’s ascent line does take a lot out of the ascent allowing pre-inspection. And one has an unclean finish for Hakea.

60.

Bad Attitude

65m18
Knuckle down for some off-width action. Takes the line between Where Eagles Dare Not and Sassanach at the far LH end of the approach ledge L of Sky Rocket.1. 35mFollow the R-facing corner/hand crack to a stance just below a small roof on the LH wall.2. 30mCrux. Continue up the widening crack to the roof. Turn this on the R and continue to the top. Take a large cam or ample tape to sling chockstones.

A. Adams, G. Cooper, 1986.

61.

Sassanach

★50m19

The line immediately R of Bad Attitude, following a steep hand and fist crack. A small sassafras bush high up provides a welcome rest.

P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Mar 2002.

62.

Hakea

★★40m22

A steep, sustained, test-piece crack that varies from a small seam to hand width. Climb the wall and thin seam (good micro-cams and wires) to a small roof, passing this on finger jams (crux). Continue up the very sustained crack passing a number of v-grooves, chimneys and bulges. Pull around a huge overhanging flake to a stance at the Hakea tree near the top.
As on the 1st ascent, abseil-off the tree back to the ledge where you can again abseil from bushes or down climb (grade 14) back to the base of Cossack column. Alternatively for an ordinary and bushy finish, ascend a fixed rope for ~8m or worse, climb awkwardly past the hakea tree to the top.

P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Feb 2002.

63.

Days of Future Past

50m20

This steep corner L of The Word Was Made Flesh has been top roped. Festooned with one or two drapes of tea tree and choked with tussock grass in places, it is not recommended unless one is a true green climber. The overhang is interesting.

Top Roped: P. Robinson, Mar 2002.

64.

The Word Was Made Flesh

65m20
Very sustained. The second crack L of Sky Rocket.1. 45mAwkward jamming up the V-groove to a semi-hanging belay.2. 20mContinue more easily to the top.

N. Duhig, M. Edwards, 1988.

65.

A Step Back

★55m19↓
The first line left of Tartarus. From the foot of Tartarus, climb up left to a sloping grassy ledge at the base of the line.1. 40mClimb the long intimidating crack. The crux is about halfway up, where the crack widens above an ancient white crusty nut and biner (remnants of a 1960s attempt). Belay at the base of some large blocks.2. 15mContinue with care past the blocks. At the top move straight up past the bush, or make an awkward traverse R into the hole at the top of Tartarus, which leads through to the Cossack Column rap station.

P. Robinson, B. Terry, May 2002.

Access for the next routes is easiest by abseiling-in from Cossack Column Rap Station.

66.

Tartarus

★★★60m21↓
Quintessential climbing for the aspiring crack master. Takes the steep and strenuous crack line up the left hand side of Cossack Column that is accessed from the top via the Cossack Column rap station. Memorable for being the first Pipes grade 20 (subsequently upgraded to 21) and put up at a time of changing ethics. Carrigan had brought his NSW ethics on holiday to Tasmania and had persuaded Lewis to climb without his customary small selection of pitons. A crisis of confidence must have ensued midway up the climb, because a cry rang out from Lewis, (to Mendelt Tillema, who was close by near the top of the Amphitheatre), "Hey, Mendelt, where's ya pegs?" These were duly lowered, and the climb proceeded.1. 40mClimb a short corner on the left to a small bush and step R into the base of the crack line. Continue up the line to a vague stance above a bulge split by a hand crack.2. 20mFollow the infernal v-groove that slants up to the left and around the corner, then continue up easier ground to the top.

I. Lewis, K. Carrigan, Jan 1974.

67.

Sky Rocket

★★★55m20↓
Trad climbing on the Pipes is epitomised by this signature route. The climbing is outstanding and the position preposterous. Rap in via Cossack Column rap station. Start as for Tartarus before moving right to climb the left hand arête and front face of the column.1. 15mClimb the Tartarus line to belay in a vee-slot.2. 40mTraverse right from belay onto a narrow ledge. Up 1m then traverse right, step around the arête, and up the thin crack line. (1st crux). Climb shallow corners of increasing difficulty to a ledge (some of the flakes to this point are suspect). Layback and stem over a bulge to twin finger cracks. Continue thoughtfully to a narrow ledge (2nd crux) and then up the twin hand cracks (final crux), exiting via the right crack to the rap station. Direct start: (21) climb directly up to the crack. Direct finish: (25) climb directly over the summit block.

S. Parsons et al, 1982. Direct start: M. Colyvan, R. Clarke, 1984. Direct finish: P. Robbins, 1990.

68.

In Flagrante Delicto

★★★50m2417Þ ↓

An amazing line of sustained quality and difficulty up the right hand arête of Cossack Column. Originally done in two pitches, but best done as one. Although no trad gear is needed, wires can be placed on the first pitch and near the top of the second pitch. Either scramble up to the base or abseil in from the top via the Cossack Column rap station. Follow the line of U-bolts up the arête between Sky Rocket and Potem Tole; 8 bolts to DBB, then 8 bolts to the rap station.

R. Parkyn, Dec 1993.

69.

Potem Tole

★★50m19↓

The steep corner at the top is unique for the Pipes. The line follows the corner just right of Cossack Column, and is best accessed by abseil via the Cossack Column rap station.

From the vegetated ledge in the recess, start up the left hand crack/groove line for 10m (as for Voluntary Vomit), stepping left into the parallel line on the face when you encounter the fern forest. Continue up the crack system to a grassy ledge at the base of a steep corner. Negotiate an awkward move in the corner and jam/layback through the corner above to a welcome rest. Continue up the short hand crack on the arete as for Skyrocket to finish at the rap station.

K. Carrigan, I. Lewis, Jan 1974. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982.

70.

Voluntary Vomit

75m17
Beware the rabid eating disorder. This route follows the crack and groove lines that start on a grassy ledge in the recess just right of Cossack Column.1. 25mStart as for Potem Tole and climb the left hand crack/groove line and continue up without veering from the line.2. 25mContinue up the corner until it is possible to finger traverse right into Battle-Axe Crack.3. 25mFinish up Battle-Axe Crack.

I. Lewis, A. Hogarth, Feb 1974.

71.

Battle-Axe Crack

62m12
In the recess just right of Cossack Column there is a large black chimney with a large chockstone 20m up. Scramble up 12m to the base of the chimney.1. 20mUp the chimney on the right to belay on a chockstone.2. 30mContinue up and belay on a large, grassy ledge.3. 12mScramble to the top.

M. Tillema, G. Batten, Mar 1971.

72.

Max Rockatansky

★★★65m26
The intermittent thin crack line, immediately L of Lost Arrow, is an impeccable trad line with 2 stonker pitches (can be led as one mega-pitch).Access: either 1) fix line down climb (~5m N of Sky rocket top anchors) or 2) Swing to base from SR abseil, or 3) scramble up 4m R of IFD.Gear: DMM gold offset and a #4 cam very helpful pitch 1; double set of cams 0.2 to 3 plus lots of small wires.1. 35m 25Lost Arrow for 8m to chockstone, step left onto small ledge on face and find small gear above, then left again into the line proper (committing). Up thin cracks on left arete for 15m, then traverse via a stalactite (+small offset wire) to belay under roof (2 FH).2. 20m 26Exit roof to left, up flakes until the features end, reach tenuously left around arete into finger crack. Up this via crux bulge to ledge belay (2 BR).3. 10mEasy climbing to top, or up fixed line, or lower off (55m to IFD anchors).

H Jackson (pitch 2) and J. Clemens (pitch 1) October 2025 - with thanks J. Spencer

73.

Lost Arrow

60m17
Likely harder, this direct line involves some strenuous climbing. Start at the base of the line 2m right of Battle-Axe Crack. Scramble up steep ground to the base of the route.1. 12mStraight up the corner to a small stance.2. 35mUp the crack to a small ledge. Climb the off-width crack over a small overhang (crux) to a narrow chimney.3. 13mEasily to the top.

J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968.

74.

Nucleon

★50m21
The twin finger cracks 4m to the left of the Shield, makes for a good alternative first pitch.1. 20m 21Up finger cracks and a flake to a groove. Climb the groove to a problematic exit onto the top of the pillar. Belay in the niche.2. 30m 20Up the overhanging wide crack as for the Shield pitch two.

D. Gray, D. Rosen, Feb 1992.

75.

Shield Variant

★51m24
A thinner version of pitch two of the Shield.1. 25m 17Climb the first pitch of the Shield to belay in the niche (or better - go up Nucleon).2. 30m 24Traverse left to the small ledge and climb the finger crack to where it rejoins the Shield.

S. Parsons, J. Kennedy, Dec 1985.

76.

The Shield

★★55m20
A classic route by the Master himself. This is the striking crack that is easily seen across from the amphitheatre rappel. Best access is via trad belay at the top of the route and setting a fixed line. 55m rappel to a small vegetated ledge at the start of the first pitch.1. 20m 17An ordinary pitch. Climb the fist crack, before negotiating the boulder to a vegetated ledge. Follow the steep crack system above and belay in the niche under the overhang.2. 25m 20The classic pitch. Follow the uncompromising fist to off-fist sized crack through the bulge (crux). A #5 and a couple of #4 camalots are recommended to buy some stress relief. Continue up the unique and interesting twin-edged pillar before exiting onto a ledge.3. 10m 7Up the easy vegetated corner on the left to the top.

J. Ewbank, A. Keller, Mar 1968.

77.

The Sword

60m14
A direct line which has become very vegetated over the years. Start at the head of the Amphitheatre 3m right of the Shield.1. 23mClimb straight up the corners to a ledge.2. 28mUp a corner, battle past 4m of draping vegetation (Mountain Coprosma), then up a pleasant chimney to a large ledge.3. 9mUp the crack above to the top.

J. Ewbank, A. Keller, Mar 1968.

78.

The Nightingale (s)

★35m25/26

Access: abseil down fixed line to EB anchors/ledge. Great quality hard trad climbing, escapable on upper sections.

Climb twin crack pod for 9m, then traverse left (crux) and then up (spicy) to crack on arete. Up this to ledge. Finish up bolted arete above.

Gear: std rack with triple cams from 0.2 to 1, +/- double ropes.

Alt:
"Nightingale the second". Up twins cracks all the way to the blank face then move left (crux) around arete to crack. (H Jackson 2026).

H Jackson, J Clemens and J Spencer 2025

79.

Jem Clemens (& H Jackson) Closed Project

Twin cracks left of early bird (the right of which is ascended by Carrot top), then straight up middle of face (2 BR) to ledge (instead of going up loose flake of carrot top), then blunt arete/face above (3 BR).

80.

Carrot Top

★20mA3↓

The route description sounds delightful! The thin aid line left of The Early Bird, that uses a top down access by abseiling from fixed line (thre double carrot bolts rusted and have been removed) down to the same DBB as The Early Bird. Aid directly out of the belay via the middle crack (knife blades and small cams) then a loose flake leads to a carrot. Bat hook to a rubbly ledge and then aid right through a crack.

G. Phillips, S. Harper, Apr 1997.

81.

The Early Bird

20m24↓

Currently dirty / vegetated. Reputably classic when clean, but not many have tried it due to Al's alleged fondness for sandbagging and lots of cleaning would be required ..... Rap in from the Carrot Top rap station to reach a narrow ledge equipped with a DBB (fixed hangers), right of the Sword. Climb the shallow left-facing corner to the right of the belay. Well protected by small to medium cams and wires.

A. Williams, Oct 2004.

82.

Lunatic Eclipse

30m21

The strenuous crack left of Richard Scraper, reached by abseiling to a ledge. The result of a mammoth cleaning effort, but unfortunately the lower crack has regrowth (dwarf woody Coprosma, if you are a botanist!).

G. Aimer, Mar 1991.