GPS
Barbecue Crag
Couple of minutes
All day
North facing sandstone
Introduction
With some excellent north facing rock only five minutes walk from the road, these cliffs are bound to be popular.
Access
The approach to all of these routes except those at the Wok Burner is from the same carpark/turning circle. From the main road, immediately take the left fork, which after 250m reaches the site of a quarryman's abandoned building and a fire place (the old metal barbecue has now gone), where there is a small turning circle and limited parking. Park here and continue down the track right for a few meters to an old quarry access track off down to the left which in turn leads to a foot path continuing down the hill. This foot path crosses a couple more quarry tracks until a short line off left leads to the wave-like sandstone edge of Wave Wall and the Balconies. The main foot path continues straight on down the hill steeply to the lower crag, Shadow Wall.
Wok Burner Buttress
Shortest approach at Sand River - called Wok Burner because it’s tacked onto the side of Barbecue. Take the turnoff to Barbecue crag, but about half way to the turning circle, there are pullouts on the right and left of the road beside a small quarried face. Park here. Look for a small cairn on the left side of the road - this indicates the start of a scramble down below the road. When at the bottom of the crag, turn left and after about 25m look for a neat slim buttress (GPS in introduction). Can also be accessed from the bouldering cave (see the bouldering section) or by wandering along the complex escarpment from the Balconies etc.
Wok Burner Buttress
A route can have as many variations as it damn well pleases!
From the toe of the buttress follow the direct line of bolts up the face. Thin start, tricky move onto slab then jugs to the finish. It is (un)fortunately possible to escape the crux and climb up the crack to the right at a more amenable grade 13.
Domhnall Brannigan and Jim Duff 12/11/2020
Same bolts - right hand variation using crack to avoid crux of HD
Domhnall Brannigan and Jim Duff 12/11/2020
Wave Wall
Descending from the main parking at the turning circle, a side track off left leads past a dirty overhang to the neat little buttresses of Wave Wall (aka Nano Land), with an excellent set of short climbs with loads of possible variations, eminently suitable for beginning leaders, or to finish off a days cragging, or as a warm up for the other delights in the BBQ crag area. Further along, the crag rises to steeper, harder buttresses where the cliff line curves back round.
Wave Wall Left End
A clean wall with a thin move near the top.
T.McKenny ,JD. DB, May 2024
Thin moves up the line, a little easier to the left.
J. Duff , T.Mck, DB, , May 2024
Smooth climbing on smooth rock.
J Duff , T.McK, DB, May 2024
Wave Wall Right End
Up the nose of the buttress, with a harder move or two to negotiate the steepening midway. Nice climbing.
David Stephenson, August 2018
Up the right side of the buttress, passing the protruding flake on its left, followed by some neat moves back right onto the nose and up the overhanging headwall.
David Stephenson, August 2018
Neale's Corner
Next route R of Crest. Undercut start leads to ramp. The start won’t be to everyone’s taste, entertaining!
N Smith and J Duff July 7, 2024
Spooky Slab
Spooky Slab
Some lovely thin moves with the crux at the top. Takes the left line up the slab left of the big roof.
Jim Duff, TMcK, DB May 2024
The much-viewed line up the wall and across the lip of the large roof. Spooky traverse to finish is the crux. Don't get sucked into reaching for the top of the crag until you are at the lower off. (Best cleaned on second. Take care both in stepping out above the roof, and in lowering off. Nice climbing with an airy, photogenic position at this grade. Not great for toproping)
Domhnall Brannigan, JD and TMcK, May 2024
The Balconies
Past the large roof beyond Wave Wall and Spooky Slab, a steep slim red buttress is flanked on either side by the large rooves that cap the cliff. Three routes attack this buttress.
The Balconies
Starts up the steep left side of the buttress, stepping right onto the nose and then back left over the overhang with some interesting moves gaining the upper arête. Climb past the tree on the right, slightly harder if the tree is not used, to the lower offs.
David Stephenson, August 2018
An extended boulder problem leads up the right hand arête. Can be started at the base or bypass the easy slab by scrambling up to the ledge and get straight to the business.
David Stephenson, November 2019
The overhanging corner on the right.
David Stephenson, September 2018
60m right of Jack Horner toward the right end of the long red wall marred by the third-height scruffy break, is a clean seam: A hard bouldery sequence uses the seam and face holds to either side. Nice climbing on good rock. High first bolt is OK to climb to but can easily be stick clipped.
Domhnall Brannigan, Neale Smith July 2025
Red wall
Shadow Wall
From the start of the original Wave Wall turnoff, continue on downhill on the initial foot track for a couple of minutes to the top of Shadow Wall, which offers a good concentration of nice routes in the upper teens. Follow the track easily down to the right (as you face out from the cliff) or abseil in (18m, DBB) to the base of the cliff.
Shadow Wall
Takes a line up the left hand arête of Shadow Wall. A neat warm up for some, or a first lead for a neophyte. Fun. Mostly gr.14 with a strenuous finish.
Tony McKenny, Dave Stephenson, , Sept 2018
On the left side of the the steepening wall behind the big tree root. Thoughtful and fun.
Neale Smith. Bob Bull. September 2018
A girdle traverse from the start of Storm(y) in a D-Cup up to the lower offs on Shady Deals. An absolute hoot, as much of a challenge for the second as the leader. Start as per Storm(y) in a D-Cup, up this for 3 bolts then across at this level till pulling up over the break on Shadow Play, traverse across to Shady Deals and up to its finish.
Neale Smith. Bob Bull. Sept 2018
What a surprise - thin start followed by good climbing to the top.
Stu Scott, September 2018
Starts on the left side of the wall, with the crux moves coming in the initial steeper section and a thinnish move at the very top.
Stu Scott, August 2018
Some thin moves through the first section, followed by pleasant climbing up the head-wall. Very worthwhile.
Stu Scott, August 2018
Classic of the crag. Sustained interesting climbing the whole way. Excellent.
Tony McKenny and Bob Bull, August 2018
Lovely climbing passing a series of small overhangs on the right side of the wall.
Tony McKenny, August 2018
Entertaining climbing up the arete with a cut loose move to boot!
Bob Bull, Stu Scott Sept 2018
Up the groove to the right of Shady Deals to join at bolt 3.
Stu Scott, Bob Bull 2018
A right to left rising traverse that is quite sustained. Climb Shady Deals Variant to SD bolt 3, then keep moving left, clipping the 3rd bolts of Shadowplay, Deep State, and Witch Hunt. A few thin moves here lead to the 4th bolt of Enemy of the People, the 5th bolt of Annica, the 6th bolt of Storm(y), then the last bolt and loweroffs of Keep Calm.
Dave Stephenson and Neale Smith, October 2018
Matchbox Wall
Feeling a bit socially anxious at Shadow Wall? Slip away for an additional two (very) short routes. Turn left around the corner at the base of Shadow Wall and follow the well-defined track along the wall for 50 m.
Matchbox Wall
Straight up from the little alcove at the bottom.
Gabriel Kinzler & Emalisa White, July 2020
Straight up starting on top of the pile of rocks. Don’t use chossy corner of death.
Gabriel Kinzler & Emalisa White, July 2020