thesarvo

Duck Reach bouldering

90 Problems010203040VE-23-56-89+
  • Walk1-10 min
  • SunTill early afternoon
  • RockDolerite

Access

Park as for the old Duck Reach Power Station, on the West Launceston (south) side of the river (a 5 min drive from the Basin, or a 30 min walk up the track). Walk down to the suspension bridge and, just before crossing it, take the steep steps down to the riverbed. Most of the bouldering is upstream of the bridge. Access is no problem unless the water is very high. There have been recent reports of break-ins at the top car park, so take valuables down with you or keep them well out of sight.

GPS

Upstream of Suspension Bridge

Duck Reach boulder 1.jpg1324
1.

Unnamed

3mV0(Stand)

Stand start and climb the crack... if you're into that sort of thing.

2.

Unnamed Eliminate

3mV3(Stand)

Climb the right side of the crack (without using the left side) via slopers to the top.

3.

Unnamed

★3mV4(SDS)

Sit start matched in the diagonal crack at mid height and move straight up the face to a good hold and up to the top. Traversing right to the vertical seam is not part of the problem and drops the difficulty to about V2/3.

4.

Unnamed

★3mV1(SDS)

Sit start just right of the broken seam on small opposing sidepulls and climb straight up to the top.

5.

Pray for America

★5mV4

Stand start with your hands at about chest height on opposing aretes then climb up and top out. Note: the wall left of the crack is out and to get off you'll need to reverse the problem and jump onto pads.

Bevan Ashby, Jul 2025 · From: theCrag

6.

Ola

★★★6mV6

Sit start from the break then climb up the column and top out. Note: the crack to the right is out and to get off you'll need to reverse Pray for America and jump onto pads.

Bevan Ashby, Aug 2025 · From: theCrag

Duck Reach boulder 2.jpg
7.

Slippy-Slappy

★★4mV5(SDS)

About 15m past the first problems is this water polished gem. Sit start under the roof low in the crack and traverse this right toward the corner. Move out over the lip to a slopy crimp and move up right past very polished slopers until you can top it out.

8.

Slippy-Slappy Direct

4m

Start as for Slippy-Slappy but once you’re on the slopers on the lip, instead of heading left, head straight up via bad slopers and worse mantle.

From: theCrag

The next climbs are located on the bottom of what the route climbers call the Skidrow Buttress, about 15m up stream of the Slippy-Slappy.

Duck Reach boulder 3a.jpg109
9.

Unnamed

V1(Stand)

Climb the blunt arête from high start holds at about 2m height.

10.

Unnamed

V1(Stand)

Start on a jug rail at about head height and move up and leftward to top out as for the previous problem.

Duck Reach boulder 3b.jpg14171113
11.

Pepsicola

★★4mV7/8(Stand)

Start with two high small slopy crimps on the face and make a couple technical moves before jumping for the top.

12.

Opencola

★4mV8(SDS)

Linkup. Sit start the Open Door then angle right to finish up Pepsicola. A good bit of technical climbing involved for this one.

13.

The Open Door

★★★4mV7(SDS)

A very technical and body position dependent arête with a barn door that really wants to stay open. It has an outrageously cool start move and some nice pinches throughout. Sit start with RH on the arête and LH positioned low on a slopey gaston about a metre left. Flag a foot and pop the right hand up the arête. If you've held the barn door, move delicately up the arête to the top.

14.

Open Door Stand

★★3mV6(Stand)

Stand start the arête and climb to the top. A good alternative if you find you can't do the opening move to the previous problem.

15.

Close the Door

★★4mV9

Climb the right hand side of the arete from a sit start. Note: left foot starts on the spike at the base of the arete.

Bevan Ashby, Sep 2025 · From: theCrag

16.

Monkey Business

★5mV2

Stand start at good rail, traversing up and left to finish up corner.

From: theCrag

Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag

17.

Unnamed

3mV2(Stand)

Start on a rail at head/chest height and angle up and leftwards to top out in the corner.

Bevan Ashby, Aug 2023

Duck Reach boulder 4.jpg211918
18.

The Slip

★★4mV4/5(SDS)

At the right hand end of the Skidrow Buttress is a low roof with a crack splitting it. Start at a crimp and a good slot at the left hand end of the crack and traverse it right around the corner to finish on a good ledge above.

19.

The Slip Extension

★8mV7(SDS)

Climb the slip but keep traversing the crack right until you get to the corner and make a few moves up to finish on good holds above. This finish isn't great with the boulder behind, so unless you're really after more climbing the better option would be to just climb to the original finish.

20.

Slipped

2mV5

Stand start in the good juggy part of the crack and bad feet, climb straight up to good holds. This is the finish for the Slip Extension.

From: theCrag

21.

Unnamed

V5(Stand)

Start with hands matched on the juggy part of the horizontal crack with smearing feet and move up the vertical seam to end on a large flake jug and step off.

The next boulders are farther along upriver below the route climb called "Seize the Day" down closer to the water.

Duck Reach boulder 5.jpg2522
22.

Pineapple Tree Traverse

★4mV7/8(SDS)

Start low on the corner with a LH sidepull and a RH crimp. Move up and right to a small point and continue on past crimps and slopers to finish as for problem #2.

23.

Pineapple Pizza

★3mV7

Sit start as for Pineapple Traverse, head right to big sloper and straight up from there finishing as for "Pineapple under the Sea"

Tommy Krauss, 2013 · From: theCrag

24.

The Pineapple Under the Sea

3mV7

Sit start with good LH sidepull and decent RH. Punch up into decent sloping edges for both hands and then do a large move to good LH edge. Continue on to pool mantle.

Jordan Grant · From: theCrag

25.

Pineapple Tree

★★V4

Start under the small roof on an undercling and a slopey block hold just below. Climb straight up to finish.

26.

Unnamed

★3mV3/4(Hang)

On the boulder just right of Pineapple Tree, start on a large rail at about chest height. Move leftwards to the arête and top out.

Bevan Ashby, Oct 2024

27.

7 Minute Abs

★★★4mV10(SDS)

Just right of the previous problem is an undercut roof facing up river. Start RH on the lowest good undercling/sidepull in the roof, LH squeezing the left face at about the same height (~250cm below the divot), and feet on the detached 'diving board' boulder below the actual roof block. Pull hard compression moves requiring quite a bit of core tension to gain a jug over the lip, followed by an easier top out. Probably a little more interesting exercise for developing that 6-pack you always wanted than doing sit-ups, but that's a matter of opinion. Climbing this without using the protruding boulder for feet would easily bump the grade up 2 or 3 numbers.

28.

4-Pack

V4

On the boulder just right of Pineapple Tree, start on a large rail at about chest height. move leftwards to the arête and top out.

From: theCrag

29.

2-Pack

★2mV2

Start on a good low jug and move up and slightly right and top out over the roof.

From: theCrag

Duck Reach boulder 6.jpg3031
30.

Unnamed

★★4mV2(SDS)

Start on a good low jug and move up and slightly right and top out over the roof.

31.

Unnamed

★★4mV4(SDS)

Start on the right corner with a RH sidepull crimp and a LH crimp just below the steep part. Move up past a small crimp and top straight out over the roof.

32.

Velcro Envy

4mV11

Sit start from crack then climb up and top out. Block to your right is out.

Bevan Ashby, Sep 2023 · From: theCrag

There are a couple climbable boulders on the opposite (River-left) side just below the power station. You can rock hop across when the water is low, or use the suspension bridge.

Duck Reach boulder 7.jpg3334
33.

Limited Edition

★★3mV9(Highball, SDS)

Start matched on the large crack/ledge and move out right to some crimps. Make a big move back right to a slanting crimp rail and then dyno for a jug up over the top. If you miss the dyno you're liable to take a nasty fall down into a hole. The first ascensionist filled this potential hazard in with logs and branches before covering it with pads. Unfortunately floods and 12 year old kids who like playing with sticks seemed to make short work of his efforts, so there's a good chance you may have to rebuild the landing.

Mark Polinski

34.

Leave It to Beaver

★★V8(SDS)

Start as for Limited Edition but continue left to reach the corner. Then move up this past crimp sidepulls to a committing move to reach the jug. The fall from this isn't as potentially hazardous as its neighbour, thus the engineering background helpful in landing modifications is less of a factor.

Mark Polinski

35.

Sudoku

★V8(SDS)

About 20m upstream of the Limited Edition boulder, just in front of a corner in the power station is a large boulder face protruding out of the building. Sit start just right of the arête on a LH sidepull, RH triangular edge, and horrible feet. Move up to a large ledge, then head left around the arête to gain a thin crack to top out. Might want to bring your pencil and notepad. This is quite a technical problem.

Mark Polinski

36.

Open Project

V10 - 13

The clean overhanging face to the left of ‘Sudoku.’

From: theCrag

The Nose Wall

37.

Come on Banjo

3mV2

Sit start from LH incut sidepull/RH undercling then climb up and top out. Blocks to the left are out.

From: theCrag

38.

Diagonal Crack

3mV0

On the downstream face of boulder, in slight gully. Sit start at the thin pebble choked diagonal crack and up via not as amazing holds as expected.

From: theCrag

39.

The Nose

★★4mV0

Start on the left of the big roof, head right and follow the nose to a top out over the crack

From: theCrag

40.

Compression Line

★3mV4

Stand start L of crack with good low LH, and RH on slopey arete. Compress up to better holds without using the R wall or standing on the lower ramp.

From: theCrag

Big Guns Boulder

41.

Crazy Blades

★3mV7

Sit start low on the giant juggy rail. Make some technical moves via sharp crimps to gain the juggy ledge for your feet. Continue straight up. Avoid the crack on the left and jug on the arete.

Harley Mills, Aug 2025 · From: theCrag

42.

Big Guns

★5mV1

Stand start up the arete on the far left of Skidrow Buttress, below Joy of the Spec etc

From: theCrag

43.

Big Guns Sit

★★3mV3

Sit start with left hand on arete, and right hand on low crimpy gaston. Make a move up to join Big Guns. Can feel really hard until you find the right feet.

Harley Mills, Aug 2025 · From: theCrag

44.

Youth Gone Wild

★3mV1

Stand start just R of Big Guns at jug rail. Up, then left to join previous route.

From: theCrag

45.

Youth Alone

★4mV5

Sit start on the really low layback crimp. Hard move off the deck, then climb straight up via big holds. Avoid the arete out left and the block to the right/ corner crack.

Harley Mills, Aug 2025 · From: theCrag

The Open Door Wall

46.

Flamed

★★V4

Stand start, hands matched on the crack in the corner, go up trending right using some skills to mantle directly in the middle of the boulder. Wall to the left is out.

Luke & Jesse P · From: theCrag

The Slip Boulder

47.

Lil' Nipper

★★10mV5

Stand start from the base of Skidrow then climb rightwards across the face to the arete before topping out via the slab and crack. Note: the landing is poor so bring as many pads as you can.

Bevan Ashby, Sep 2025 · From: theCrag

Seize The Day Blocs

48.

Pebble Proselytizer

3m

Needs a clean but could scrub up well. The faint line straight up the face left of Converted.

From: theCrag

49.

Converted

★V1

Team FA'd by Nick, Kobi and Eli.
Lovely Featured arete left of Carpe Diem.

Stand start on good holds and head straight up.

Nick Hanson · From: theCrag

50.

Carpe Diem

★★3mV4

Stand start at good juggy rail and head straight up with sidepulls, underclings, slopers and crimps. A good all rounder!

Ali Roush, Jul 2022 · From: theCrag

51.

Seizing Poets

4m

Sit start as for Dead Poets Society and head left into Carpe Diem. Looks to be good climbing!

From: theCrag

52.

Dead Poets

★4mV6

Sit start on good RH crimp and good LH edge and head up into juggy rail. From here, turn the arete and dance your way up to committing mantle.

Tommy Krauss · From: theCrag

53.

Shakespeare

★★3mV0

Stand start and follow the runnel feature up and out.

Poetry in motion!

Ali Roush, Jul 2022 · From: theCrag

54.

Squeeze The Day

★★4mV3

Stand start with hands low on either side of the arete, slap your way up to gain the lip and mantle out to the left.

Classic Dolerite squeezing.

Ali Roush, Jul 2022 · From: theCrag

55.

Sit Squeeze

4m

Sit start on the LH side of the squeeze bloc with both hands on a thin patina.

Turn the arete and finish as for Squeeze The Day.

From: theCrag

Forgotten Friend Boulder

56.

Palmistry

★3mV3

Surprisingly good, sit start with good RH sloper low on the arete and poor LH sloper on face. Using the small footer, gain higher on the arete and use some palm magic to get into the stand and exit through easier, dirtier terrain.

Jordan Grant, Jan 2021 · From: theCrag

57.

Friends In Low Places

2mV5

Sit start on the blocky feature on the far left hand side of the bloc. head straight up via pushing and top out over improbable slopers to good spine of boulder.

Jordan Grant, Jan 2021 · From: theCrag

58.

A little Help

3mV3

Sit start as for Friendly Stranger and top out directly up from here on tricky slopers.

Jordan Grant, Jan 2021 · From: theCrag

59.

Friendly Stranger

★★2mV2

Start on a good low jug and move up and slightly right and top out over the roof.

Original name was either lost to time or never bothered with.

From: theCrag

60.

Cheers

★★3mV5

Sit Start on the right corner with a RH sidepull crimp and a LH crimp just below the steep part. Move up past a small crimp and top straight out over the roof.

Original name was either lost to time or never bothered with.

From: theCrag

61.

Cheers Low

★3mV6

Sit start from water-polished slopers then climb Cheers.

Bevan Ashby, Jan 2024 · From: theCrag

62.

Slightly acquainted

★3mV7

Start with left hand in good side pull in the middle of the roof. Big iron cross move to right hand jug far right and top out via the arete.

Diego Lopez Iturralde · From: theCrag

63.

New Friends

★★3mV8

Start as for ‘slightly aquatinted’ once gaining the big jug out right, head back left across the roof on crimps and exposed mantle finish.

Diego Lopez Iturralde · From: theCrag

Pineapple Tree Boulder

64.

Hawaiian Hug

★2mV4

Sit start as for Pineapple Traverse but head straight up via good holds

Tommy Krauss, 2013 · From: theCrag

Kayaker's Pavilion

Eskimo Roll

★4mV3

Traverse of half of the face in an upstream direction. Walk around to where the cliff starts, stand start around the bottom arete to reach the huge jug and continue right along positive crimp rail. Further right are some good flat edges, use these and top out from there via the crack and some more good holds.

Patrick Munnings, Aug 2022 · From: theCrag

Groovy Boulder

65.

Maxi Relaxi

★2mV1

Sit start left hand on. layback, right hand on block. Climb up

From: theCrag

66.

Dumb and hard

2mV3

Sit start matched in the crack, pull up hard to gain the good foot and finish up the crack. A one move wonder

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

67.

Westies for Life

★★★4mV3

Stand start matched on diagonal rail then climb up into scoop before topping out. Note: corner/block to the left are out.

Bevan Ashby, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag

68.

Groovy Baby Groovy

★★★5mV6

Sit start with a right hand jam and a left undercling. Low slabby foot just right of the crack (left of crack is out). Move up via slopes and a scoop for an unlikely finish.

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

69.

Blocked Groove

★4mV1

Sit start and climb the groove with two cracks up high.

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

70.

Thin Thing

★★3mV6

Sit start with both hands in left finger crack and a low foot. Move up via double thin cracks.

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

71.

The Deep Groove

★3mV2

Sit start with hands in the crack. Climb the layback/off-width to the top

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

73.

Snap back layback

★★3mV2

Sit start in the crack, layback your way up.

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

Downstream of Suspension Bridge

Nose Blow Boulder

74.

Blowin Ya Nose

2mV5

Start matched on lowest rail with feet on the boulder. Climb up and slightly left to mantle

Patrick Munnings, 2022 · From: theCrag

75.

Nose in Ya Blow

★4mV4

Same start as previous route but make a big move right after the first move. Continue right to easier mantle

Patrick Munnings, 2022 · From: theCrag

76.

Possum Dance

★1mV4

On the downstream face of the boulder is a roof with a flake. Start matched on flake and pull to good holds and top out. Quite lowball, best done without a pad, or one of which that just protects your head.

Nick Hanson, Apr 2022 · From: theCrag

Crack Town Boulder

77.

The Bakery

★3mV2

Sit start matched in the juggy finger crack. Climb straight up. For max experience, only use the crack

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

78.

Kindergarten Crack

★2mV1

Sit start matched in the hand crack. Climb straight up. Harder if you can't jam

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

79.

CT's Post Office

★4mV3

Sit start on the low juggy crimps. Climb the bulging arete to the letter box slot, then mantle straight up. Avoid using the boulder to the left

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

80.

Crack Town

★★4mV4

Sit start, with left hand on jug edge, and right two finger pocket in roof. Make a move to gain the finger crack and climb straight up.

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

81.

The Ghetto

★3mV5

Sit start undercling and high side pull on the hollow flake and good feet. Work your way to the arete via more underclings, then finish up the arete.

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

Express Boulder

82.

To be deleted

Harley Mills, Oct 2024

83.

Crack Attack

★4mV2

Sit start just left of Express Arete on the jug/crack. Make some moves to gain the perfect hand crack and climb straight up.

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

84.

Express Arete

★★4mV4

Sit start with a double undercling. Make a move up then right to gain the ledge, climb the arete and top out straight up. Avoid the boulder to the left for full value.

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

Slab Boulder

Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag

85.

Slab City

★★4mV1

Stand start on the ground and step up onto the slab. Climb straight up

Carleigh Burns, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

Cookie Boulder

Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag

86.

Cookie Power

★★3mV3

Sit start matched in the hand crack. Move up and left to gain the mega jug, then big move straight up and mantle the slopes.

V2 if you stand start at the jug.

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

The Hidden Garden

87.

Picking Daisies

★3mV1

Stand start on the big ramp. Make a few moves on jugs to gain the slopers and climb the slab.

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

88.

Delightful Dandelions

★★3mV1

Stand start with hands in the corner, climb the smooth hand crack to the top

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

89.

Popular Poppies

★★4mV5

Sit start matched on the obvious lay back and feet out left on the ledge. Move straight up to gain the jugs, then blast straight up to the finger crack. Try not to use the ramp at the base of the climb for feet.

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag

90.

Pumping Pultenaeas

★5mV4

Climb Popular Poppies until the jug, then make a high traverse right to gain the obvious ledges. Up these to the top.

Harley Mills, Oct 2024 · From: theCrag