Precipitous Bluff

Four days tough walking
Mixed sun and shade
Columnar Dolerite, 400m high

Acknowledgement

Compiled from original material by Phil Robinson, Chris Rathbone, Steve Monks and Ross Taylor

Introduction

Located deep in the South West wilderness, Precipitous Bluff (PB for short) is an impressive dolerite peak, with a towering rampart of columnar cliffs facing out to the Southern Ocean. The problem of course is access as any prospecting climber faces at least four days walk in, and out, and has to brave the sometimes appalling weather.

History

Nevertheless, over the years climbers have braved the elements and explored a little of the enormous potential of the area. Details are scant but it seems the peak was probably first climbed by Mac Urquhart in the 1930s. Dave Neilson from Melbourne is reputed to have visited and left a rope there in the mid 70s, but it isn't known what, if any, climbing was done. Phil Robinson, Tasmania's leading exploratory climber for many years, was there with Chris (Basil) Rathbone in 1986. "We climbed a good long ridge to the summit, some short routes but the main face had blank corners (needed pegs which we didn't have) like the E. Face of Mt Anne. We had hexs and wires and 2 or 3 original Friends but we never used to aid anything in those days. If it didn't go free there was always another line to try."
In 1994 visiting Victorian climbers, Steve Monks and Jane Wilkinson, undaunted by the out-there location and access problems, created a major multi-pitch wilderness climb, Precipitous Arête(23)committing themselves with the minimum of gear "a single 30m rope and a handful of wires".The next new route recorded was in 2012 where Lachlan and Ross Taylor hiked along the coast from Melaleuca, up the lagoon and added The Paddy Line (380m, 18),“the easiest looking line up the main face”

Access

This is not for the faint hearted! Either (1) From Cockle Creek, follow the South Coast Track north for three days to New Lagoon, then wade up the river for another day to Damper Creek. From here, follow a taped "track" for maybe four hours up to the cliff line. The track turns north here and follows the cliff base to a major gully - this has been climbed (difficult) as a way to the summit but the main route continues on for about another hour, then up and round another narrow gully before climbing more easily up the ascent gully, exiting L when it ends and into the next gully which leads to the top. Descent is via this path.Camping is available at a rough campsite on the south bank of the Damper River (658850), or there is a small bivvy near a permanent pool about 15mins after the track turns north at the base of the cliffs. Or (2) Traverse the Southern Ranges for 2-3 days from Lune River via Moonlight Flats, Hills 1-4, Mt La Perouse and Pindars Peak. This is quicker than the South Coast track although very exposed. Camp at a semi sheltered hollow just below the summit. The best weather is usually February and March although you can expect lousy conditions at any time.
PB is in Tasmania's World Heritage Area and is a fuel stove only area. Full details on the South Coast Track, access and transport are available in John Chapman's South West Tasmania Guide, 2008. See also TASMAP 1:25 000 Precipitous and/or 1:100 000 South Coast Walks, and http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/recreation/tracknotes/scoast.html for track information.

Crag Steward

Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (southwest@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Summit Buttress

Precipitous Arête

265m23

The climb follows the L arête of the Summit Buttress, giving excellent climbing on steep, sound and clean dolerite. Access: Where the track first meets the cliff line, follow the "track" north for about another 20 mins along the base of the cliff to a tree marked with a tape (well, it was there in 1994!), just before the track descends to cross a large gully. Ten minutes of easy scrub bashing, then up and L beneath the main cliff to the start of the climb. Start: At knife-edge, horizontal ridge below L edge of cliff.1. 25m 17Arête to ledge at 20m, then up to next ledge.2. 30m 21Corner crack L of arête for 20m, then R-tending diagonal crack to bush in groove. Now R, up crack to re-gain arête at ledge.3. 20m 23Up to ledge, then short difficult crack just L of arête to ledge.4. 30m 21Corner behind ledge for 10m, then L to slight L-leading ramp. Follow ramp to deep groove/crack. Belay on block.5. 20m 18Groove.6-8. 80mEasy, spectacular climbing up crest of summit ridge.9. 30m 17Middle crack in final, steep wall to ledge.10. 30m 16Up.

Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson 9 Feb 1994

The Paddy Line

370m+18

The route follows what is the easiest-looking line up the main face of PB, and starts up an obvious left-facing corner crack (the main face doesn’t have many obvious lines) about ten minutes after the track from the New River Lagoon hits the cliffline.1. 40mFollow the corner crack into a chimney, then move up and R to a small ledge.2. 40mStep L then head straight up to a big ledge at the bottom of a cirque, climb the R side of the cirque until you hit a ledge and belay.3. 25mFrom the R side of the gully cross over to the L, climbing until you hit a ledge below a face-crack and distinct right-facing corner.4. 20mClimb a crack R of face crack, which has a few tricky moves, the up to belay stance.5. 45mFollow crack and chimney, which leads to a nice corner crack. At the top of the corner, make a couple of tricky moves up an arete, making a belay just above.6. 40mUp and L to a vegetated corner, climb this for ten metres, then head slightly up and R another 30m to another belay ledge.7. 35mYou are now on a distinct ridge/arete. Follow this up until you hit the base of a wide crack, climb this to the top then make a belay on the next ledge up (at the base of another crack).8. 25mClimb the crack until you are at the top of a pinnacle.9. 150mScramble L up the sloping ramp of scoparia and pineapple grass for 50m to the arete. Scramble around the arete then up the other side, roping up for a short pitch that leads through a distinct window in the arete. Unrope and scramble another 50 or 60m to the summit of PB, which you finish almost directly beneath.

Lachlan & Ross Taylor (alts), 14/2/2012