Trial Harbour
Up to 40min
Mixed sun and shade
Coastal granite, up to 25m high
Acknowledgement
by Nick Hancock
Introduction
These assorted granite crags are north of Trial Harbour.
Access
From the campsite at the north end of Trial Harbour walk north along the coast for 30 minutes. Just before going around to Goldrush wall, a long 25m high wall becomes visible high on the hill. Below this at sea level are some short, steep cracks.
Crag Steward
Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (westcoast@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
GPS
Man Child Area
The overhanging, flared and shallow hand crack.
Andrew Geeves, Anna Lynch Jan 2010
Some trickiness getting established, then desperate flared thin hands to the top.
Andrew Geeves, Anna Lynch Jan 2010.
Jetstream Wall
The following two climbs are on the wall high on the hill. Access: Follow the rocky ridge that heads up to the right side of the wall. Once on top, aim for the top right hand end of the cliff. Easily scramble down to the base of the cliff.
On the far left hand end of the cliff is a featured dike. Climb the vegetated chimney below it or scramble around to the pedestal and start here. Fun moves with the crux moving into the layback before jugs and a mantle onto stance, then climb easy slabby groove. Gear is good but difficult to place on lead.
Andrew Geeves Jan 2010
Towards the left hand end of the cliff, just left of a steep, narrow gully is a line with two ledges. Chimney, stem, mantle and cracks. A fun and varied climb.
Andrew Geeves, Anna Lynch Jan 2010.
Goldrush Wall
5 minutes walk further along the coast past Man Child area, just after a sandy gulch, a long blank wall blocks further progress. GDA 55G 0347146 5357227
Climbs the L end of Goldrush Wall, on excellent holds just R of a wide crack, to finish up a groove.
Nick & Heather Hancock, Ashley Mason, Jan 2009.
Climb the immaculate dyke via three glued carrots to an easier finish via a crack, medium cams.
Nick Hancock & Ken Palmer, Jan 2004.
Start at the far right hand side of the Goldrush wall. Just left of the blocky corner. Up cracked wall past gear in flake and up to small ledge. Head to left side of ledge and then straight up the wall above, finishing up the thin hand crack just to the right of Goldrush.
Jack Colbeck 21st Feb 2020
The arête down R of Goldrush, with poor protection.
Ashley Mason, Nick & Heather Hancock, Feb 2009.
Eye Rock
Five minutes past Goldrush, as the view north opens out, and you see a big Castle like cliff in the sea, the track passes right of a blank south facing wall with a distinct eye. GDA 55G 0347080 5357364. Climb the cool thin flake, past a couple of good medium wires, to a bold swing left up onto the arete. Trend up right up a flake with small-medium cams.
Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011.
Castle Rock
On the strikingly cracked south east facing wall of the large Castle shaped cliff down by the sea, 75m before Only the Lonely. GDA 55G 0347031 5357406. Climb the left of the double cracks 10m left of the east arete. Cams to Friend 4.
Heather & Nick Hancock Jan 2011.
Climb the steep wide crack just left of the east arete, take a step to the right. Cams to Friend 5.
Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011.
Climbs the speckled north east face, trending left from some small cams, past three glued carrots to a DBB.
Nick Hancock Jan 2011.
Only the Lonely Area
Located on a distinct square topped pinnacle set back from the sea, 10 minutes past Goldrush Wall, on the way to Wheel Bay. Climb the slab and sharp arête past five glued carrots and a 3.5 & 5 Friend to a DBB.
Nick & Heather Hancock, Feb 2009.
Climb cracks to the R, to a ledge, then the wide crack to the summit and DBB.
Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2009.
Twenty metres left of Only the Lonely and on the same fin of rock, climb the beautiful twin dykes past 3 glued carrots to a DBB.
Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011.
Just past ‘Only The Lonely’ and down at sea level. GDA 55 G 0346969 5357547.
The beautiful arcing crack. Barn door moves constitute the crux.
Andrew Geeves, Matthew Johnston Feb 2010
A stunner. Balancy moves are required to move from the first crack to the flake on the face, then more balancy and strenuous moves from the flake to jugs below the overhanging crack. The crack above is difficult until you gain large holds up high and left. There is good gear (wires/offset wires and 2.0 camalot) behind the flake on the face. Take a 5.0 camalot for the top crack as it flares open inside.
Matthew Johnston, Andrew Geeves Feb 2010
Climb short hand crack (crux), then chimney. Surprisingly good fun.
Matthew Johnston, Andrew Geeves Feb 2010
Knobby Rock
A couple of minutes past Only the Lonely is a dome shaped rock higher on the hill, split by a chimney. GDA 55G 0347016 5357580. Climb the north face on amazing black knobs, crossing the crack, medium cam, and follow 3 glued carrots to a BB.
Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011.
Climb the hand crack on the seaward face just right of the chimney.
Heather & Nick Hancock Jan 2011.
Pulpit Rock
Sits high on the hillside above Trial Harbour and approached from the Climes Track. Bridge up with a large sling on the smaller block and climb via two carrots to a carrot belay on top.
Nick & Heather Hancock, Ashley Mason, Feb 2009.