Tyndall Range

2-3 hours, steep uphill
Mixed sun and shade
Slabby to past vertical conglomerate up to 300m

Acknowledgement

By Kim Robinson, Adam Donoghue

Introduction

Climbing in the Tyndall Range is only in its infancy: it will no doubt be the scene of some more hard and long free and aid routes for the next generation. It's a fantastic area for a walk, some great camping and offers unique climbing in a picturesque setting above a 1km wide lake. The climbs here are all hard earned; with the approach, logistics of getting to the base, and the challenge of getting back up all contributing to a good sense of satisfaction...post ascent.

It worth considering the fact that all the longer routes here are abseil in and climb out - so it is a NOT great place to do your first multi-pitch adventure, as abseiling off is not really a viable option. Even the sport routes here have quite spaced bolting.

The angle is often slabby on the surrounding buttresses, while the main face feels steeper with most terrain around vertical and a few overhanging sections thrown in to add to the exposure. The rock is conglomerate and is very compact due to glaciation in the area.
Being located on the West Coast of Tasmania, the Tyndall Range is best enjoyed from November to April during a solid weather forecast. Take winter clothing and good rainwear as the weather can change rapidly - even in summer. Also a map/compass or a GPS are needed to get to the cliff. An important thing to remember here is that this is a very special spot for local bushwalkers so please make an extra effort to minimize your impact. One of the more striking things about being in the area is the unspoilt nature of the surroundings - please keep it this way.

History

Several years ago Doug Fife realised the potential of the 300m cliffs above Lake Huntley. He, with various partners including most of Tasmania's willing, tried to find a route that would go. The cliff proved a formidible challenge with years and partners passing by before a route was pioneered up the large striking corner of the main face. The route was climbed with Garn Cooper and there was a standoff between the two with regards to the naming - 'Leap of Faith' or 'Wake in Fright' - the latter referring to a broken hammock incident during the night. 'Leap of Faith' won out and set the scene that the cliff was open for business.
During this period Adam Donoghue began a long distance relationship with the direct line of 'The Healer'. The crux pitch through the amazing overhanging prow took three shifts of lead and over 15 hours to establish - such is the difficulty of new routing in the Tyndalls. Then in 2005 Adam was back with Gareth Llewellin to establish a route that indicated the potential for quality long and sustained free routes with the climb 'Deeper Water'. There are many lines in waiting, though the effort and commitment required will stop all but the die hard suffer-fest junkies out there. If establishing a new route please respect the effort and vision of the routes already established here by using natural gear where available and bolts only as a last resort.

Access

THE DRIVE: The Tyndall Range is approximately 4hrs drive from Hobart (281km) followed by 2-3hrs walk. To get there from Hobart, drive to Queenstown then follow the main road north (A10) towards Burnie past the Strahan turnoff. At 13km from Queenstown you will get to a right turn onto the B28, signed as 'Lake Plimsol'. Take this and follow it for another 11km until you reach a gravel road on the right. Park just before the gate (be sure not to block the gate). The driving is now over and the walking begins.

THE WALK: The following has been updated August 2021 in consultation with PWS in an effort to reduce direct and indirect impacts.

Walk on the 4WD road past the gate, over bridge and after about 600m turn left onto another road. After another 200m you will see a walking register box which marks the start of the track through the bush. After some mud and scrub the track follows an open and well trodden path for most of the gain up the hill. There is a reliable stream off to the left about half way up the hill just past the large boulder. At the top of the hill sidle the mountain top on button grass and cushion plants. Now it's worth taking your bearings as you need to break from the walking track and head ESE towards the cliff top camping area. The 'Leave main track here (turn left towards cairn on horizon)' (see GPS coordinates below) is about the same point as when the ridge to the left of the track becomes less steep and the walkers track starts to descend up ahead.
The plateau vegitation here is particularly sensitive and we would like to prevent new tracks forming across the plateau. As you leave the main track, head for a slight saddle and fan out as you go to minimise new tracks forming. Avoid walking on cushion plants and stick to rocky sections where possible. head SSE for 5 mins past the cairn on the saddle to the small tarn. When approaching the tarn you can see peak '1037' (on map). There is a large white quartz boulder on the left shoulder of the peak and camping area is just past this boulder. From the turnoff to the cave should take 20-30 minutes.

Camping

In general as climbers we should try not to promote other user groups coming off track to this area so be careful with your use of social media, ie think twice before sharing your off track camping in the area.

Most climbers stay near the cliff top a couple of hundred metres back from the cliff edge (see camping area GPS point). Where possible camp on firm surfaces off the sensitive vegetation.
Please don't collect or burn firewood as it's prohibited in this area. There are numerous small tarns for water nearby the cliff top. Take care to ensure that you don't wash anything directly in these tarns. If camping under overhanging sections of cliff remember that rain may not wash away things so it's well worth walking away for #1's.
For #2's in this area the first and preferred option in an alpine environment is to bring a poo tube, some doggy bags and pack it all out. For the good but less preferred method see the section below - you might be able to climb hard but do you know how to shit in the bush? How to Make Poo Porridge The supreme method for minimum impact pooing involves a technique called 'Poo Porridge' or 'PP'. The alpine environment here means that if you dig a shallow grave and use excessive loo paper that chances are it will still be there in 2 years time... not pretty or hygenic for other users. Most climbers technique of shoving a rock on it won't cut it here, it is easy for animals to disturb it and surface water easily carries the parasites and bacteria to other water sources. 'PP' has been proven in studies to breakdown in a fraction of the time by mixing soil nutrients through the poo. * Step 1: Find a site 100m or more from camp, and downhill from water. * Step 2: Dig a hole with a nut key or rock 10 to 15cm deep (the top 20cm of soil has the best nutrients for breaking down poo). * Step 3: Clinch your business deal. * Step 4: Now for the porridge bit, it sounds a bit ugly but this bit is strangely satisfying. Grab a stick and mix dirt well through the poo, the more mixed the better (it will even look less like poo after this simple trick). You can now put the remainder of dirt on top and leave stick poking out to warn others, by the time the stick falls over it's safe terrain. * Step 5: Ideally carry the paper used out in a ziplock bag - it's light and takes much longer to breakdown than the poo itself. However it you choose to leave the paper, mix it well with the porridge and pee on it if you have a reserve tank (this speeds up the breakdown process).

Crag Steward

Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (southwest@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

GPS

Mt Tyndall

Bunny Ears

12m125Þ

Either abseil off DBB or scramble to the base, pleasant climbing up the short wall.

Claire Hewer, Mar 2005

Bunny Hop

15m177Þ

Scramble down to the top of the climb from the base of Bunny Ears and abseil off DBB to reach the base. Climb the wall past a couple of horizontal breaks.

Kim Robinson, Mar 2005

Lake Huntley Cliffs

Sea Of Mirrors

★★★125m26

Access: From the top of Deeper Water, follow rough footpads along the cliff top which soon become a cut track through deep scrub (the base jumpers track). Follow this past the top of Witchcraft for about 150m to where some tat on a tree branch indicates where to turn off to the cliff edge via another cut track, about 20m or so, and all up about 25 minutes walk from the camping cave. Rap from a large tree about 5m down through a gap in the bushes to a DBB. Fix this line so you can hand over hand back up to the top. Double ropes are required for the 3 raps to the ground. For the first 40m rap, trend slightly right down to the top of a small pinnacle, then another 5m down to a small ledge on the arete and a DBB. Second rap is 45m down the face to a small stance on the arete, then another 40m down the arete to the bushy terrace and a DBB on a rocky stance about 3m off the ground.1.40m, 26A sustained pitch of unrelenting crimps and small sidepulls either side of the arete, with the first 20m being slightly overhanging. An outstanding pitch and a great lead by Ingvar in a 55 minute epic ascent. 15B2.45m, 24From the belay, trend left for 3m then blast straight up the wall for more sustained and tenuous climbing on small holds, with 2 bulges providing the crux. Just below the belay, an overhanging arete provides some steep climbing on bigger holds out of character with the rest of the route, but a surprising and pumpy conclusion to this huge pitch. Handed to Ingvar by Gerry in a moment of weakness and fading light, after 4 lead attempts including a 10m fall. Gerry managed to finally second it free. 15B3.40m, 22Up the slab to the top of the pinnacle, then step left onto small ledge and confront short vertical wall below the big slab. A tricky move followed by some careful slabbing on tiny edges to the base of the vertical headwall. A terrific section follows with some thin and challenging moves to get established on the headwall until halfway up some big cobblestone jugs materialise. Jug up on amazing big pebbles then turn the lip onto small crimps for the final run-out slab. From the DBB, jumar or batman up your fixed line for 5m to the tree. 10BFA:

Ingvar Lidman and Gerry Narkowicz. 13th January, 2014

Ice-Cream Cone

The Ice-Cream Cone is the cone shaped expanse of rock left of both the Barrel and the Main Face. To access the Ice-cream Cone, walk in the opposite direction of the cave, past Deeper Water, and the rough/vague track will enter some thicker vegetation. There is a pad closer to the cliff and another 10-15metres back, but both then merge together and sidle up along a cliff on the right. The track then starts to trend downhill, several hundred metres past Deeper Water. Lookout for a subtle pad on the left, which leads to a small clearing where there are two hangers on an exposed section of slab, both wide apart. If the track then sidles up a second time against the small cliff on the right then you've gone too far. If you know where you're going it's roughly 15min walk from the cave.
GPS coordinates for top of Witchcraft: -41.94329 145.60508

Witchcraft

★★★150m27/28

GPS for top -41.94329 145.60508. All anchors are double FH and will need hardware left on them to get down. Located on the ‘Ice-cream Cone’ left of the Main Face, this route provides a great day out on immaculate rock. The pitches are varied, with the crux being a steep, absorbing outing that weaves its way around the right hand arête of the Ice-cream Cone. It is fully bolted. Suggested gear: 60m rope, 16 quickdraws (inc a handful of long ‘draws), hardware to leave on anchors to get down the route (6 raps). A belay seat would be useful if you intend to work the crux pitch, as of April 2024 there is a communal one in the bivvy cave.1. 18m 218 bolts. A traverse pitch out of the gully on the left of the Ice-cream Cone (as you look at the cliff) that crosses the face. From the stout pencil pine climb up for a few meters and traverse right across easy ground to a short boulder just before the belay.2. 30m 2714 bolts. The crux pitch. From the belay cruise up easy ground to a layback flake where the business starts. Undercling out to the arête then pump up the power up this to get to a mediocre rest. Continue up the face past a few tricky sections to a traverse left then the final corner.3. 17m 248 bolts. Head out right from the belay up past the Gills. Straight up past The Witch’s Eye pocket and flake to juggy finish.4. 30m 2110 bolts. Traverse right along the diagonal ramp, then straight up the arête in a nice and exposed position to some unobvious moves around the high bugle. Continue up the arête to Eagle Ledge.5. 18m 197 bolts. From Eagle Ledge head straight up the wall past the bugle to the belay just below the lip of the big ledge.6. 15m scramble1 bolt. Up from the belay onto the second tier of the ledge and left to base of last pitch.7. 15m 195 bolts. Straight up the big crack feature to an easy finish.

Garry Phillips & Will Bartlett, April 2012.

Deep Purple Face

Deep Purple

★★★170m285p

Access: From the top of Deeper Water, continue along the footpad for 70m until a flat boulder with two FH on top is reached. From this boulder, a 60m fixed line will gain access to the next ledge, scramble around the climbers right of the boulder to gain another DBB. Short fix the rap line off this anchor and rap a further 20m to the DBB on top of pitch 5. Rap the route on double ropes, some pitches have large traverses and overhangs, requiring several quickdraws to reach the anchors.Gear requirement: 18 quickdraws plus anchors, 60m static rope, double ropes (min 50m each)1.30m 24Single bolt and tree belay from vegetated ledge. A varied pitch featuring arete crimping, compression, jugs and slab to a semi-hanging ledge belay.2.25m 28Traverse left on slightly sandy rock to gain the arete. Steep arete crimping following the right line of bolts to a jug. Traverse right under the rooflet and finish up the overhanging stemming corner. Belay on a small ledge.3.30m 24Straight forward pitch finishing on the large half way ledge. There are bolts for a portaledge on the climbers left of the ledge.4.35m 24Probably the hardest of the 24 pitches. Three bolts of hard crimping at the start leads to an easier but consistently pumpy climbing trending right the whole way. Hanging belay.5.50m 22Long pitch that eases angle and difficulty as it goes.

Pat Munnings, Hannah Mulligan and Gerry Narkowicz. January - 2025

Main Face

The main face of Lake Huntley is a very impressive steep cliff up to 300m high. The following routes are on the main face on the longest continuous section of cliff in the centre of the picture above. These routes are quite serious as escape is not easy even with fixed ropes. It's not an option to scramble out as its too bushy and steep, so it's either climb or jumar out. Access: To access the main face scramble across the cliff top (follow cairns and subtle foot prints). There is a series of prows with vegetation much like a head of hair/wig. The prow just before the highest one is where the rap point is. Once you get to the position in the picture below you are close, the quartz smile marks the top of 'Cloudstreet' about 20m past this a gully where the track dips between two boulders, just up from this is the rap tree. It is a strong obvious bush (this is the anchor for the first rap), there is a purple rope tied around a branch as a marker (please leave it here). Extend the anchor with a 8m piece of rope/sling.
1. First rap is 50m, you should rap past an obvious tree right on the edge (it will be on your L facing the cliff), then next anchor is a 2 bolt chain anchor at a stance on the sloping terrace.
2. 40m rap. Trend slightly R to end up on a ledge on front of buttress (this is the 4th pitch of a climb called 'Surface Tension'. There is another chain.
3. 30m rap. Head R so that you go down R side of pinnacle, clip a bolt as a directional. There is another chain at a stance (this is the 3rd pitch of 'Surface Tension').
4. 60m rope stretching rap to the big terrace.
5. 50m rap from the edge of terrace follow rock cairns (chain) rap leftwards aiming for a ledge with chain.
6. 40m Rap to the base.

Leap of Faith

★★200m22 C3

The large striking corner on the left edge of the Main Face. The first route completed on the main wall and one of the few continuous lines. The 'C' grade is a clean grade (i.e. no pitons were used).1. 50m 17Move R across slab and to the left side of the ledge. Move around the tops of the shrubs and R across to the big ledge. Up the wall a few metres L of the line, then R into it. Continue up crack through bulge to big tree belay.2. 10m 4Up short corner to another big ledge at the base of the ramps.3. 45m 22Up to the L, then step R to sling bush for protection. Back L to cruxy move in awkward corner, then up clean corner/ramp. At the top, step out L towards big ledge near damp corner to belay.4. 30m 20Traverse R using dubious flake, then back into the main line. Pick your way up dodgy rock to belay near little pandanus.5. 40m 20 C1Straight up to the roof then step R to belay at the foot of the clean corner 5m below the next roof. Mixed free and aid.6. 35m C3The crux aid pitch. With the top ending 7m out from the start... steep! The line is obvious, belay at the top of the corner 4m below a small tree and bushes.7. 50m 14 C1Climb to the top of the bushes and confront the overhanging off-width. After this make your way through the odd shrub to the foot of the final headwall.8. 30mEasy. Solo up L around to the top and throw over the jug/haul ropes.

Doug Fife and Garn Cooper (with acknowledgment to Peter Steane), 16 Dec 2000.

Deeper Water

★★★305m27

One of the better days climbing to be had in Australia, and a pretty solid test piece. The climbing follows the line of least resistance and weaves its way in a interesting way up the main face. The grades have been tweaked from the original description in the 'Climb Tasmania Guide'. Suggested Rack: one set wires, cams from blue Alien to #1 Camalot (or similar), 10 draws + 6 longer draws, double ropes handy. Start at the right side of the main wall where the terraces on the R meet the sheer main face and at a small bush.1. 50m 27'The Drowning Pitch'. Follow easy flakes and cracks for 10m until a traverse L across a flake leads you to the business above. The climbing is sustained and technical with a number of hard sections sure to act as a good gate keeper and a worthy test piece. A few wires and small cams are needed in a few places. A memorable and absorbing lead!2. 20m 21Head up from belay, then up a crack system to belay with #.75 Camalot and a FH.3. 45m 24'The Crazy Sexy Pitch' Up the left facing flake until it runs out then head R with exciting moves to the the left side of a large flake. Head up and then left with good moves through a bulge and then some slabbing leftwards to the belay. A fun pitch.4. 45m 26'The Balls in a Juicer Pitch'. Thin steep slabby moves are the order here. Head up the technical R trending line on small holds. Once through this it eases off into a cracked corner then L through a bulge (avoiding the chossy wide corner that continues up)5. 35m 23Up the obvious corner then out right at the bolt to connect with the next groove. Up this, till a tricky traverse sends you to the belay stance.6. 15m 24A short bouldery pitch that breaks left on easier ground after the last bolt (a bit runout).7. 50m 25'The Golden Corner Pitch' A long pitch on a proud section of rock with an exciting finish. This is the pitch that inspired the creation of the route.8. 30m 20Head up and R into the corner below the chimney. Up the chimney for a few moves then traverse R around to belay at a small ledge.9. 20m 20Up on cobblestones crossing the horizontal break and then up and leftwards to the belay. From here a short 5m traverse will see you back on terra-firma.

Gareth Llewellin and Adam Donoghue Apr 2005.

Office Hours

300mA?

Starts up the obvious corner about 30m left of Deeper Water. A predominantly aid route that was established by team 'Project Dare' while training for their record breaking 41 days on the wall in Kyrgystan! No pitch by pitch details as yet.

Kent Jensen and Steve Anderton Summer 2006

The Healer

★★200m22 A3

Originally attempted as a solo aid project post a trip to Yosemite - Adam managed to do the first pitch before promptly calling for company... "it's pretty lonely up there on hooks!" The belay above the 'Diamond Prow' is about as exposed as you can get and the aiding is sustained and interesting taking in some good terrain. To get to the start use the standard rap route for the main face to get to the big terrace 200m down, head through the bush to the wall, a single BR marks the start of the climb. Suggested Rack: (standard big wall rack = plenty of everything including a big cam or 2 for first pitch (old green 5 camalot or #6 friend), also take a few pitons and heads + 10 bolt plates.1. 25m 20 A3Aid left to R facing wide crack. Squirm up this passing a BR on the way, then up face on hooks and bolts to DBB.2. 35m A2+Tension traverse L on quartz dyke into the main line. Up this to the belay.3. 30m A2+Tricky aiding continues up the line to the DBB.4. 30m 20 A2+From belay, follow line with a few free moves thrown in where the crack shuts down. Belay at DBB below steep prow.5. 30m A3'The Diamond Prow' It took a 15 hours of leading to establish this pitch, though repeats should do it in a fraction of the time! Very steep 45 degree overhang through an offset corner, DBB on the exposed perch over the lip.6. 40m 22All free pitch past some thin cracks before knobs and a few bolts (no hangers) lead left around base of pillar to the L facing corner. Up this corner on gear to belay over the edge on bushes. It is also possible to finish up the last pitch of Deeper Water by heading more directly up from the horizontal break.

Adam Donoghue, then Adam & Alex McConnell, then Adam & Scott Camps, then Adam & Scott & Gareth Llewellin... phew. Apr 2002.

Live the Life

★★★15028

This route starts from the monster terraces and heads up the huge orange wall. We took a portaledge due to the nature of the terrain.1. 18m 17From the monster terrace climb the face to the base of the orange wall.2. 30m 28Powerful moves off the ledge give way to easier climbing above. When the traverse line is meet the crux sequence begins. Belay on the arete.3. 20m 25Up the corner to a small ledge (this section is also what Surface Tension climbs, take a #0.5 to #2 friends)4. 20m 26Traverse right to the arete. And follow this to the top.5. 20m 25Up the arete6. 20m 25Up the arete

F.A. J Bresnehan and G Phillips 2010 (with many thanks to Alex Lewis and Will Bartlett)

Surface Tension

★★115m25

The top three pitches are finished and provide a good outing with a great view of the main face. The first two pitches below this are a project for Adam, and bloody hard so it could take a while. This route was originally engineered as an easier alternative 'escape route' from the main wall... but it has ended up a tad harder than expected! Rap in down the main rap line to the end of the 30m rap (3 raps).1. 40mProject - from terrace to ledge.2. 35mProject - from ledge to belay stance.3. 30m 25Steep climbing on good features and edges in a great position alongside the main face make this a good pitch. Bolts plus a one set of cams in the #0.5 friend to #2 friend range. Chain belay on big ledge.4. 40m 24A sustained pitch that is slabby and thin in places. From belay step left carefully (above ledge) to natural gear then up line and corner above. Take wires and cams to #2.5 friend. Belay at chain. Scramble with rope to higher position up and right (just to R of overhangs on clean vertical wall). One bolt plus gear for belay.5. 45m 24A sustained steep slab pitch that is harder than it looks; quite technical and devious. There are two cruxes - one above the third bolt and one higher up, on the blunt arete. Each climbs slightly to the right of the bolt and contains obligatory grade 24 climbing.

Adam Donoghue and Gareth Llewellin Mar 2008

Cloudstreet

★★★35m23Þ

A well protected and enjoyable steep slab in close proximity to the main wall but with a friendly and less exposed feel. Rack: 12 draws. Rap in from the bolts 5m above the quartz smile (the quartz smile is clearly visible when going across the cliff top track). Do a super careful scramble to reach these. There is a big ledge at base with a DBB. Delicate footwork and thoughtful climbing are the order here which culminates in a good series of steep moves on the blunt arete to finish.

The top pitch of Surface Tension can also be accessed from the Cloudstreet rappel. This provides a nice companion route. To reach the belay, rap as for Cloudstreet and continue a further 5 meters down, then scramble carefully 15 meters left.

Gareth Llewellin and Adam Donoghue Mar 2008

Second Chances Buttress

Second Chances

★★200m29

A sustained and adventurous route snaking through a variety of interesting features on the buttress to the right of the main face.Note that it's not possible to aid through the crux moves by pulling on bolts, and it can be very hard to find the holds if the route is unchalked. If you're unsure whether you can get through, a lightweight clip stick or long panic draw would be a great idea!The first pitch comes into shade at around 1pm in January. The rock is good for the most part, but the first pitch is a little more suspect.Approach: Take the main face rap down to the ledge where Surface Tension starts. The route begins at a line of bolts a few metres right of Surface Tension. It is also possible to rap the route, but you would need to negotiate the vegetation below Cloudstreet (rope snag potential), as well as some traversey and overhanging sections. This will be much slower. You'll also need to bring extra biners as the anchors are equipped with hangers.Gear: 17 draws including 8+ extenders, small-med wires, cams #0.3-2, black Totum or similarOptional gear: #3 cam, extra #0.75-2 cams, belay seat1. 30m 26 9ÞHead up the flake/crack past roof and then short corner. After this, make hard moves rightwards. Continue up and right on bigger holds to belay on RHS of ledge.2. 20m 25 4ÞStep right and climb the groove (wires/cams). Where the groove ends, clip bolt and move into next groove on the right. Up this, then step left to belay at RHS of roof. Take small-med wires, cams #0.3-0.5.3. 40m 29 16ÞThe bolt to the left of the anchor allows positioning a belay seat (recommended!). Traverse left over lip of roof, then up through thin moves to a welcome rest in the groove on the right. From here, make a leftwards traverse to join the arete, which is initially overhanging. After a sustained sequence the angle eases. Once on the slab, head up and right. After a delicate sequence before the final bolt, arrive at a comfortable ledge.4. 30m 24 7ÞTraverse rightwards to join the groove. Head up the groove via bolts, which becomes an overhanging hand crack (cams #0.75-2, singles OK, doubles more comfortable, optional #3). When the crack peters out, step right to the belay.5. 25m 23 7ÞA hard move through the bulge gives way to pleasant slabbing.6. 20m 22 2ÞMove up the slab until below a vegetated corner. Step up to place a black Totum in a hidden horizontal, and a med nut below. Traverse left to a bolt, then continue left to an easy flake. Up this past another bolt onto the slab.The next two pitches are a necessary evil:7. 30mHead up through the steep vegetation to a belay at the base of an easy slab. There is a fixed rope (installed Mar 2025) that you can pull on, which has tied loops that you can clip your lead line to. You can also sling trees for protection.8. 30m 3ÞHead up the slab clipping one bolt. Once on top, you'll be able to see Cloudstreet. Head through the vegetation to the base of another short slab. Climb this via two bolts, to arrive at the base of Cloudstreet.9. 35m 23After this, climb Cloudstreet to get back to the top of the cliff.On New Year's Day, prior to departing for the first ascent, Jon managed to slip and fall into the water at Guide Falls. The van key was in his pocket and got drenched, which meant that the immobiliser wouldn't disengage to start the engine. Fortunately the RACT obliged with a tow directly to the Tyndalls car park, and a friend stepped in to bring up the spare key from Hobart! Phew!

Jon Leighton and Liz Oh, 2nd January 2026

The following routes are on buttresses to the right of the main face. These climbs offer a good introduction to climbing in the region.

Rain Dancer Buttress

Rain Dancer

★★★80m22Þ

Re-bolted April 2025.Scramble down to the top of the climb, two 40m abseils will bring you to the base of it.1. 35m 2213B to DBB2. 40m 2011B to DBBCheck the climb out (bolts are not so obvious in the bright conglomerate) on your way down as once you've pulled your abseil ropes there is no easy way out unless you have some natural gear! On the first rap, initially trend R (looking in) and continue down until you reach a good ledge with DBB. On the second rap you can go straight down to the grassy ledge near the start of the route.

Claire Hewer, Kim Robinson, Mar 2005.

Big City Life Buttress

Big City Life

★★★135m26(23A0) Þ

Quite a unique route that will prove to be a popular classic. Slightly longer and more varied than Raindancer it is a good route to get used to the Tyndalls style. Being well protected and all belays being DBB upon spacious ledges, it is set up for a fun day out. With the Urban Sprawl variants it is possible to do the route all up at Grade 20. The crux pitch is a good introduction to the harder technical face-climbing the Tyndalls has to offer. The Truckstop Ledge is a good a place as any to chill out, it being safe to walk around un-roped. Access: As for Raindancer. The route takes the obvious lines on the buttress to the right of the Raindancer slabs. Once above the bolts for Raindancer continue north along the vegetation to a ramp, the rap bolts are north facing. From the initial bolts, rap 20m a fair way left (facing out) to a belay on the actual face. Another 30m Rap will put you onto the Truckstop Ledge. From the bush (not the DBB for the grade 26 version of pitch four) continue with three more 30m abseils to put you at the base of the route. The base is safe enough to walk around un-roped on. Suggested Gear: Single 60m rope is fine. 12 quickdraws plus something for the belays as well as cams from 0.3 to #2 Camalot + another #2 Camalot. For the variants take a set of wires and a #3 Camalot. A few medium hexes are handy, but not essential.1. 25m 17Up corner and face easily to belay. Fully bolted2. 35m 22From belay head up and right to tackle intimidating over-vertical headwall (via the left-leaning, right-facing shallow corner). Belay on comfy ledge. All bolted except for a #2 Camalot before the exit onto slab (this slab is a very run-out way to finish; it is possible to chicken-out leftwards on easier ground past another bolt). Belay on comfy ledge.3. 30m 18Step Right off belay ledge and up past a bolt into the corner. Up past medium cams to another bolt, then easily up slab (and another bolt) to belay beneath shallow corner. Bolts and natural gear.4. 30m 26Up technical corner/face (crux) passing the bulge to the right. Shake out and continue up pleasant slab to belay. Fully bolted.5. 15m 13Up easy slab and scramble to belay past 3 bolts.

Simon Young and John Fisher, 22 Jan 2008 .

Urban Sprawl Variants

35m20

These are variant pitches on Big City Life.2b. 35m 20Up face past bolts and #3 Camalot to bouldery crux. Continue up right into the corner. Step right when right wall steepens then up to belay. 3 bolts plus cams and wires.4b. 35m 19Take obvious crack 10m to the Right of Big City Life crux pitch. Continue up past friendly vegetation till possible to step left (and a little downward) across slab into BCL (this dog-leg means double ropes are nice). The first ascent team climbed the crack direct to the top belay but its not recommended.

John Fisher (2b) and Simon Young (4b), Jan 2008.

Feral Prow

Bleeding Ferals Prow

Needs another 4 or 5 bolts to make it sane. Unfortunately we only brought two bolts with us! Located on end of second buttress north east of camping cave over looking the lake. This buttress has a distinct red capstone layer that is visible from above Rain Dancer (about 300m away). Walk to end of jutting buttress and locate single FH anchor bolt on last vertical rock before congomlorate ridge slabs down below. A #2 cam slot is about 5m back from this bolt anchor and should be used to backup this bolt anchor. Fix a single rope and rap 40m down the ridge to the large flat ledge (sleeps 5 if you are keen!). This is the second ledge down the route and is big enough to walk around on un-roped. Use fixed rope as anchor for belayer. The climb starts on the far left end of the ledge (facing cliff). Up left side of prow (no gear) to gain flake and marginal wires at 7m. Up flake to gain arête proper (FH). Boldly up face on the left side of the arête (crux) and trend rightwards to terrifyingly exposed position on the arête with bolt miles below and out of sight. Whittle in some poor trad behind crystals and climb jugs to small ledge. Continue up slabby arête above on spaced trad gear to top. Would be a much nicer route once retrobolted.

Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie Jan 2006.

How Hard Can It Be Buttress

RAD : Retired and Dangerous

★★13021

Abseil 50m using 60cm slings at triple bolt belay (climbing isnt the only activity that goes on up here) just below highest point of the NE buttress. Landing on a large vegetated ledge with quartz covered ramp. Walk towards the lake to DBB and extend anchor with 120cm slings and abseil 70 m to a grassy terrace. Can be done as 2x 35m rappels.Gear: 16 quickdraws, small wires, cams from micro cams to #2, slings for abseil, spare biners for anchors1.P 1) 34m 19 up short arete to thin crack then head left past bolt to arete. Continue airily to DBB. 10 bolts and small wires and micro cams2.P2) 36m 18 continue up arete to DBB. 10 bolts.3.P3) 25m 21 walk up ramps to base of wall and start at a finger/ hand crack that leads at 6 m into a chimney on the right side of a pinnacle. From top of pinnacle bouldery moves past 3 bolts lead to an alcove, from this step right onto slab and up to DBB. 4 bolts and gear4.P4) 25m 11 a single bolt is visible on the skyline to the right from the belay. Walk 2m right up vegetated ledge to crack then up this staying right to the bolt and up onto grassy ledge. The crack just to the left leads to the starting DBB. 1 bolt and gear

Vanessa Wills, David Gray Feb 2022

How Hard Can It Be?

★★★165m23Þ

A great moderate adventure route, taking a line up some good features on the large buttress at the Northern end of the lake. Although appearing broken when viewed from the top of the main wall, the climbing is surprisingly consistent and generally on immaculate rock. Fully bolted, it provides a fun long route that is more accessible to the average climber than the routes on the main wall. The first pitch's hanging arete provides amazing exposure for the grade. Access: From the cave head NE past Feral Prow aiming for furthest significant visible buttress. Walking is easy and open except for a 20m short scrubby gully. A cairn marks the start of a faint pad through this. Once on the other side head low along terraces to traverse onto the flat slabs that cap the buttress. Head down off the East side and along more terraces heading back towards the main wall to end up on a big ledge facing the main wall. The first U bolts are easily found on the left end of this ledge leading down the slab (not over the headwall). Takes about 20min from the cave and is not as epic as it sounds! To get to the bottom: 1. 15m. From the initial bolts rap down slabs to anchors next to arete. 2. 30m. Rap left over arete down headwall (NOT straight down wall where route goes) to reach big grassy ledge. Next anchors are on rock ledge a few metres down from big grassy ledge. 3. 17m. From U-bolts on arete straight down to next ledge. 4. 40m. Following arete for 20m then straight down to stance where obvious quartz dyke meets arete. 5. 27m. Swing left into corner/scoop then down to stance on arete above prow. 6. 25m. Down left side of prow to hit small ledge with 2 FH. To get to the top.1. 23m 23From small ledge head straight up wall for 10m then follow bolts out right to airy exposed stance on arete (crux). Climb thoughtfully up blunt arete to belay on ‘The Nose’.2. 27m 16Head up from ‘The Nose’ belay into scoop/corner in slab. Straight up this to the beautiful quartz dyke, then right along dyke to belay at stance on arete.3. 42m 19Up corner above belay to thin moves at overlap (crux) then up easier angled arete to grassy ledge.4. 17m 18A boulder straight off the belay leads to pleasant, easy climbing to next ledge.5. 15m 16An average access traverse pitch. Down climb off back right of ledge, step across the gap, then climb up to the next ledge (to finish 10m away from previous belay, at same height!).6. 27m 21Crank through initial steep bulge, then up face/groove to a rest. Continue up thin, sustained face to belay on arete.7. 14m 10Straight up next to arete. (p6 &p7 link easily)Suggested Gear: 2 Ropes for abseils (climb on a single), 14 Draws, screwgates for belays, helmets.

Alex Lewis, Will Bartlett 20 Feb 2010.