Conical Rocks
Mixed sun and shade
Coastal granite, up to 25m high
Acknowledgement
by Jed Parkes
Introduction
Conical Rocks is a granite crag north of Granville Harbour.
Climbs are described from North to South
Note: DFHB = Double Fixed Hanger Belay (as apposed to DBB)
Crag Steward
Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (westcoast@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
GPS
Tiger Rock
This block does not have natural gear on top. Counterbalance anchors works well, a third person sitting on the opposite side of the rock from the climb. Weight and rope friction create a solid anchor.
Somewhat protected and dynamic, up obvious weakness in rock.
Mike Hitchcock, KatChris Lang, Nisse Mar 2021
Lightly flaring chimney. Take a #4 for comfort. Easy walk off.
Chris Lang, Nisse Mar 2021
Floss rock
The crack line. Walk off back.
Chris Lang, Mike Hitchcock, Kat, March 2021
Near to Floss Rock is an obvious boulder with twin cracks.
Mike Hitchcock, Nisse Mar 2021
A bit north and inland of Floss rock.
Chris Lang Mar 2021
Two Dykes
Solo (no gear)
Alex Lewis, Jed Parkes, Dec 2015
Heather and Nick Hancock, Feb 2006
Heavy Metal Oranges Buttress
The buttress next to Cockatoo Rock. Looks like a snail when approaching from the south.
Nice little layback. Shame it aint longer. Great rock n gear.
Ben Maddison & Daniel Stavert January 20231
Nice rock, great moves, well protected
Ben Maddison and Daniel Stavert Jan 2021
Follow 'Heavy Metal' to the end of the first crack, before moving up the fridge and into the right crack to finish. Double slings as natural anchor, walk off climbers left (over 'Heavy Metal Oranges' then down).
Chris Lang, Dec 2021
Cockatoo Rock
Cockatoo Rock
Thin crack.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Mar 2008
Crazily steep crack.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2006
Block Rock
Left side of the rock, through diagonal crack and up groove; recommend offset cams to protect the second half.
Chris Lang, Mike Hitchcock Mar 2021
Follow the lightning bolt shaped crack line up the tallest face.
Kat, Nisse Mar 2021
Good pro. Direct up the weakness on the face to gain the almost vertical crack. Climb short wall at top to find gear options for an anchor, easy walk off.
Chris Lang, Madi Rosevear Dec 2021
Around the arete (R) from the previous two climbs. Hand crack with small ledge partway up.
Chris Lang, Mike Hitchcock Mar 2021
Elephant Rock
Just at the southern edge of the sandy gulch, where the vehicular track ends north of the main area, is a featured block with an elephant shaped trunk on its north face. Climb the main shallow groove on the right side of the trunk to thin flakes at the top. Crozzly slab finish.
Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2020
A few metres right, climb the steep left facing hand crack to a thinner left facing flake, then step right to the next flake and finish up the slab.
Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2020
Just right again climb steep ground into a groove, take this then step right and up the slab.
Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2020
Red Blood Corpscle
Red Blood Corpscle
2x Carrots + 4 Cam
No Belay bolts, counterbalance abseil to get off.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2007
On the north west side of the rock just north of Red Blood Corpuscle and above a sandy gulch, climb a R facing layback groove to a hard topout.
Nick & Heather Hancock Mar 2014
Mordor Rock
On a small pinnacle east along the ridge from the Red Blood Corpuscle, climb a south east facing groove crack.
Edi Albert & Jim Duff Jan 2020
The Witches Hat
The Witches Hat
2x Carrots to DFHB
Nick and Heather Hancock, Paul Hoelen, Feb 2006
Scoop Rock
Scoop Rock
Solo up chimney and slab on back side of pinnacle (Down climb to get off)
Nick Hancock, Feb 2009
Crack past loose block then slab to summit (Down climb to get off)
Nick Hancock, Paul Hoelen, Feb 2006
Spud Rock
Spud Rock
4x Carrots to Gear Belay (Belay = BD #0.75 #1 and #3) Walk off right
Heather and Nick Hancock, Feb 2007
Under the Palm Tree
Solo (easier than it looks)
Ken Palmer, Mar 2008
Norseman Pinnacle
Norseman Pinnacle
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2009
Bold start.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2009
Penguin Rock
Penguin Rock
Nick Hancock, Feb 2007
2x Carrots + natural gear inc. long sling to DFHB.
Belay bolts are on back of pinnacle, it is not possible to pull ropes over route.
Nick Hancock, Feb 2007
The Incisor
The Incisor
Access via scrambling through a hole on the left of the buttress, up right to main ledge then left behind block to a belay ledge.
Climb the crack on the left of the pinnacle (natural gear) to gain the slab (2x Carrots) to DFHB
Note: originally climbed the chimney from the ground to gain the ledge to make a 50m route. Even easier to get to the main pitch by going immediately through another hole directly in line with the abseil.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2006
Same access as above. Stem into the soaring crack on pinnacle right side and follow to its end. Cross left through the circular jug to meet the carrot bolts (x2) and slab.
Chris Lang, Tyler Rohr, Dec 2021
Cyclops Rock
Cyclops Rock
Hard face past glued carrots. No Belay bolts, counterbalance abseil to get off.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2006
Thin crack on right side of seaward face.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2006
Whale Rock
Whale Rock
Nick Hancock, Paul Hoelen, Feb 2006
Scratch desperately up the West arête of the Whale via 5 glued carrots to a glued carrot on top. Scramble off the North East side.
Nick &Heather Hancock, Ben Griggs Jan 2019
Hard start up undercut flake just left of wide ugly crack on South face.
Nick Hancock& Kim Ladiges. 2021
Wide crack on South face, with a bold finish. 5 Camelot advised.
Kim Ladiges & Nick Hancock. 2021
Tuft Rock
Tuft Rock
Solo up slab, down climb Tuft as Old Boots to descend.
Jed Parkes, Alex Lewis, Dec 2015
Heather and Nick Hancock, Jo Ainley, Feb 2009
Flame Rock
Either start up Closer for the first two bolts and traverse L into the shallow technical crack or climb the flake on the L side of the face then traverse into the crack. Good gear but very sustained.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2007
5x Carrots to DFHB. Great sustained climbing on the pocketed slab.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2007
2x Carrots + #2BDc4 to DFHB
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2007
Down left and at a lower level from Flame Rock is a hand crack up a rib.
Gerry Narkowicz & Jim Duff Jan 2020
Shadowplay
Start to the right of the foot of the wide flake crack with a bouldery unprotected move, a bit easier than it looks, but a bad landing. Cams to #5.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2009
Mushroom Rock
Mushroom Rock
1x Carrot to DFHB. A #3 cam in the break on the ledge, makes the start safer.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2007
Craypot Rock
Just across the grassy gulch and slightly down from Mushroom Rock is the slabby pinnacle of Craypot Rock
Craypot Rock
Climb the seaward face of the slabby pinnacle past 2 bolts to a FHB
Jim Duff, Deb & Edi Albert Jan 2020
Exercise One
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2007
The Frog
The Frog
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2007
The Hot Cross Bun
On the smooth north face of the Hot Cross Bun. Climb the flaring crack on the L side of the face almost to its top. Place gear on a long sling and descend a few meters before making a weird holdless traverse right onto the smooth face. Shuffle R then drop down carefully to easier, but very runout, moves to the crack on the R side of the face. Place reasonable gear, but climb with difficulty to the R of the crack, before moving back into it to reach the top. Double ropes essential for leader and second. Simultaneous abseil off landward side.
Rich Pollard & Nick Hancock Mar 2025
The Hot Cross Bun
Beautiful thin crack with good wires. Rap from good large wire.
Heather and Nick Hancock, Feb 2007
Climb crack then flake out right to DFHB. Spicy runout through the middle and large cams advised.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2007
Not part on the Hot Cross Bun Bolder, 1st boulder south. Climb the Y shaped crack via the left finish.
Heather and Nick Hancock, Feb 2007
Climb Sticky Bun for 2m then step right into the thin finger crack.
Alex Hartshorne, Dec 2021
Not part on the Hot Cross bun Bolder, 2nd boulder south
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2007
Volcano Rock
Volcano Rock
Six glued Carrots to DFHB. Weird moves past the first two bolts then a lovely easier face.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2006
Climb the chimney behind the main face to a tricky step across. Originally done with a BR, now missing.
Nick Hancock, Feb 2006
Around to the R of New Dawn Fades, on a separate pinnacle, are a pair of converging wide cracks facing south. Climb the wide R crack to a very steep bulge. Punch up R to gruesome horizontal jams. Traverse R for 4m, then up. Drop the rope down the other side for a belay. Counterbalance abseil off easily. Cams to #5.
Nick Hancock & Ben Griggs Jan 2019
Southern Campground Rocks
About 200m north of the campground and just right of the track is a large boulder with a very thin seam on its beautiful south face. On the opposite north side climb cracks up right then back left to a harder finish above a grass tuft.
Ben Griggs, Heather & Nick Hancock Jan 2019
Only 50m north of the camp is a series of rocks running in a line north east. On the north side of the most easterly is a wide white streak emanating from under a wide flake. Make a hard move to the flake, place a big cam at least #5, and strenuously traverse left with no feet to the left side of the flake. Place a large wire in the flake and continue easily to the summit and a fhb.
Edi Albert & Nick Hancock Jan 2020
Ten metres right and on the same block climb the right side of a thin flake to a thin traverse left along the top of the flake. Mantleshelf, then finish up the thin slab. 3b to fhb.
Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2020
On the north face of the next rock towards the ocean is a groove crack leading to a trick move left past a bolt to a balancy move up onto a flake on the impressive arete. Fhb.
Nick Hancock & Edi Albert Jan 2020
On the south face of the rock nearest camp, climb a left leaning seam crack.
Edi Albert & Jim Duff Jan 2020
The Froglet
Somewhere near Tooth rock is a froglet shaped boulder (If you find it please mark it with you GPS, last seen 2007)
Nick Hancock, Feb 2007
Tooth Rock
Tooth Rock
Skyhook and poor cams to DBB.
Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2007