Federation Peak

2 days tough bushwalk
Mixed sun and shade
Alpine quartzite, similar to Frenchmans Cap

Acknowledgement

This guide to Federation Peak is based on the 1969 CCT Guide written by Reg Williams and updated by Tony McKenny. The old guide used English grades and where the grade of a route is not certain, the old grade has been included for reference: treat all grades given with suspicion. Thanks to Tim Chappell, Richard Eccleston, Lyle Closs, Mendelt Tillema, Phil Robinson, Grant Dixon and John Burgess for their contributions. The accuracy of any of the information in this guide should be viewed with caution, as descriptions are often based on a single ascent.

Introduction

Federation Peak in Tasmania's remote South West has been described as 'Australia's premier mountain - a true rock spire of high calibre and soaring proportions'. It is home to Australia's longest climbs, up to 700m, on excellent featured white quartzite. Although Federation has attracted many would-be climbers over the years, few actually summit each season due to the peak's technical difficulty, the arduous approach and the area's notoriously bad weather.

A trip to Federation is certainly not just another day at the crags - it involves a commitment to an expedition of at least 5 days, and the risk that no climbing will be done due to bad weather. Be prepared for an adventure. Taking an EPIRB is not a bad idea as rescue is a long way away.

Federation Peak is part of Tasmania's World Heritage Area, so please respect the wilderness and stick to the principles of minimal impact bushwalking and climbing (no bolting for example). The WHA is also a fuel-stove only area.

History

Deep in the South West wilderness, steep and technical on all sides and composed of quality quartzite, any ascent, whether by a bushwalker or a climber, is a significant achievement. To just climb the mountain, let alone do a new route, requires food, fuel, a lot of gear, fitness and skill, good weather... and time; time to walk in and out, time for reconnaissance and time to sit out the often atrocious weather. The early explorers relied on air drops of supplies to buy themselves that time - the 1951 team had 55 food tins airlifted in to them! After air drops were banned in the early 70s, subsequent parties have had to carry everything in; trips have had to be shorter and inevitably the number of new routes has dwindle dramatically.

It was only after many years of exploration and failed attempts that the mountain was actually climbed, when a Victorian group led John Berchervaise summited in 1949, so establishing the first rock climb on the mountain, the Climbing Gully (12) from the Bechervaise Plateau. Just a couple of years later, a determined group of seven climbers from the Melbourne University Mountaineering Club based themselves on the mountain for 45 days in all, exploring the range, locating the Forest Chute and, climbing in nailed boots, adding six new climbs to the Pinnacle itself.

A decade after the initial expedition, Victorians were back, with Bob Jones, Jack O'Halloran, Geoff Shaw, and Rob Dunse climbing the magnificent North West Face route (17) in 1961. The mainlanders continued to push new lines; Reg Williams, with Chris Baxter and Rob Taylor, explored the NE Corner (14) in 1965, while the ascent of Blade Ridge (17), over 400 metres of steep, unrelenting quartzite, by Peter Heddles, Rod Harris, David Neilson, Jack Woods in February, 1968 was sensational.

On a CCT trip in 1971 Bryan Kennedy and Lyle Closs added Two Pools on the Bechervaise Face, and Lyle returned in 1972 with West Coast underground miner, Karl Prinz, climbing Carlyle on the NW Face and making the first route on the West Face, the Wild West Route. In addition, John Davies and Neil Davidson added 'Davies and Wilbur' on the Jagged Wall to the right of the climbing gully to the summit.

Karl was back a year later with Geoff Batten, Ross Nicholas and Mendelt Tillema. He and Mendelt did a new route on the NW face following the crack/chimney on the right hand side of Blade Ridge, and Karl tried a new route directly up through the overhang (now the Direct Route), but had a fall about 15m up. He pulled out a few pieces of protection but they finally held before he hit the ledge. One foot was completely stuffed with severely strained and torn ligaments while the force and the friction had completely stripped the sheath on one of the ropes. After an epic abseil retreat, including a desperate climb and crawl up about 700m of the steep rocky couloir to get to Thwaites Plateau, Mendelt was despatched to race out to summon the S&R chopper.

Reg Marron, John Croker and Keith Egerton continued the mainland drive in 1979 with the hard North West Face Direct (18). Joe Goding and Simon Dadley-Moore added Joe and Simon Go Gardening (18) in 1996 , maybe not the most romantic of names but certainly, the most descriptive. Locals Tim Chappell and Richard Eccleston yomped in mounds of gear in 1997 to be rewarded with the hardest route to date, the North Face Route (19).

The mountain can appear truly alpine in winter, although conditions can be extremely variable due to it's relatively low height and position in the very wet "Roaring Forties". The first ascent under true winter conditions was made by Faye Kerr and Max Cutcliffe in September 1954, while a Tasmanian group led by Kevin Doran climbed the Mountain in atrocious conditions over two weeks in August 1978, a trip which cost Kevin a toe from cold injuries.

Access

Maps: TASMAP 1:100,000 Old River For more detailed access information see John Chapman's excellent book 'South West Tasmania', 1998, which is usually available in Hobart outdoor shops. The quickest approach to Federation peak is from Farmhouse Creek via Moss Ridge. Bechervaise Plateau can be reached in one very full day of walking, or more reasonably in a day and a half. This "route" is not marked on current maps, nor is it maintained in any way as a track. Various other approaches exist including the traverse of the Eastern Arthurs, see Chapman for more details.

The road to Farmhouse Creek and the cutting camp track re-opened in 2022 after a period of closure due to bushfire damage. However, the Farmhouse Creek bridge has now been removed and the carparking area is now 7.5km further back from the old carpark.
The Eastern Arthur traverse and Yoyo track appear to be now open but contact Sustainable Timber Tasmania, (03) 6169 2800, or Parks Tasmania for updated information.

To reach Farmhouse Creek: from Hobart head south on the Southern Outlet (A6) to Kingston, then on to Hounville and Geeveston. As you approach Geeveston, leave the Huon Highway on the Arve Road (C631). This is followed for 27km, ignoring side roads, to the road junction 1km before the Tahune Airwalk. Turn left onto the signposted 'Picton Road' and follow to the new road head.
To check which roads are open, visit or phone the Geeveston Information Centre (0362971836) before driving in.

From Farmhouse Creek follow the track for 18km (9-12hours) to Cutting Camp where good campsites exist. There has been a large number of trees blown down on the track and progress can be slow. From here it is a very steep and muddy slog up Moss Ridge, taking 4 to 6 hours to reach Bechervaise Plateau. From Bechervaise Plateau the Southern Traverse may be followed to reach the western campsites. If you are walking out via the Eastern Arthurs, allow at least another three days .

NB Climbing the mountain by any route is difficult and there have been at least five fatalities in recent years, the latest in 2016. Most have resulted from a fall while ascending or descending the Normal Route, the easiest way up the mountain, or on the Southern Traverse.

This is not a bushwalk in the accepted sense and both the Southern Traverse and the Normal Route, a Grade 5 rock climb, involve steep awkward scrambling and enormous exposure: if you fall off you will keep falling for the rest of your life. The descent from virtually all the climbs here is made by reversing the Normal Route, the top of which is usually marked by cairns. Bad weather and slippery rock of course routinely add to the dangers.

Crag Steward

Camping

The following sites are available for camping: Cutting Camp - Good sites well above the stream on both sides of the creek. GR 596089. Bechervaise Plateau - Provides the only campsites east of the peak. Both upper and lower plateaus have semi-exposed sites. Camping plateforms are provided on the upper plateau but there are no toilets and water is from small pools or the creek on the upper plateau. GR 576089. Hanging Lake - Camping platforms are provided below the northem rim of the open ridge near the lake outlet. Tremendous views but unattractive in poor weather. Camping beside the lake is now banned. Go downhill from the camp for toilets. GR 566082. Thwaites Plateau North (known as the Climbers Campsite) - A large well sheltered camp cut into 5m high scoparia on the large ridge on the north side of Thwaites Plateau. Water from pools on the plateau. This is the best sheltered site near the peak. If you are staying long in the area, Parks would prefer you to use the Hanging Lake sites, more exposed but better equipped.GR 566082.

Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (southwest@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Map of the area around Federation Peak (from J.Chapman)

GPS

Upper Berchervais Plateau

Immediately above the upper Bechervaise Plateau camping area to the L is an imposing pillar of rock.

Uncertain Day

105m13(Mild Severe)

Start: the obvious corner on the cliff immediately above Plateau.1. 24mChimney up, after an awkward start getting into the chimney, until a chockstone.2. 18mContinue up the chimney and belay on the ledge at the top.3. 45mMove up the slabs, to the right, until it is possible to scramble to the top.

Peter Heddles, David Neilson, Feb 1968

Bechervaise Plateau Face

This steep face overlooks Bechervaise Plateau and forms the northern side of the summit block. As seen from below, the view is considerably foreshortened; however, the height, in excess of 120m, is soon appreciated when one is at grips with a climb on this excellent cliff. Five of the routes on this face start at a line of weakness toward the left hand edge of the face, below and slightly on the right of an obvious yellow diedre (Golden Diedre).

Bechervaise Face
2.Golden Diedre17
3.North-East Corner14
4.MUMC Route No. 415
5.MUMC Route No. 314
6.Tolerance and Compromise18
7.North Face Route19
8Expiry Date21

The Climbing Gully

36m12when dry (Hard Difficult)

This is the original route to the summit and is still used by some parties. Start: On the Terrace, at the S-E corner of the summit block, adjacent to a vee cleft which decends towards Lake Geeves.1. 18mAscend the obvious gully, starting on the right-hand wall and then moving into a cleft and up on to a large, sloping ledge. Belay here, taking care with loose rock.2. 18mClimb the corner above the ledge until a chockstone overhang is reached; then traverse left, along a narrow, sloping shelf, to a notch which gives access to a large gully (Geeves Gully) leading to the summit. Scramble up the gully to the summit.

Geelong College party, lead by John Bechervaise 1949

Davies and Wilbur

160m (approx)14

To the R of the original Climbing Gully Route is the aptly named Jagged Wall, around to the L from the obvious corner of Golden Diedre. Start around the centre of this wall and take the easiest line of attack between the chimney on the L and the overhangs on the R.The belay on the first pitch is in a sentry box.Towards the top move R under a big bulge and continue to the top close to the Golden Diedre wall.

John Davies and Neil Davidson, 1972.

Golden Diedre

135m17(MVS)

This climb follows the prominent yellow diedre on the NE corner of the summit block. It is sustained and delicate over the last 75m. Start: Below the diedre, in the obvious crack which slopes up to the right, about 18m to the left of the start of NE Corner.1. 45mMove up the crack easily, and belay on the ledge at the top.2. 15mScramble easily up to the foot of the diedre. Belay on a small grassy ledge3. 42mMove up the corner of the diedre on delicate holds, then traverse left under a roof (awkward). Continue up the corner, laybacking where necessary, and belay on a poor stance on a sloping ledge.4. 33mContinue up the corner, again laybacking where necessary, until a narrow, overhanging chimney (on the right) is reached at about 27m. Move up this (awkward) and belay at the top of the crack. Scramble to the summit.

Rod Harris, Peter Heddles, Feb 1968

North-East Corner

138m14

A sustained, delicate and exposed route on delightful rock, following a natural line up the NE corner of the face. Start: At the foot of a prominent vertical crack toward the left-hand end of the face.1. 27mClimb directly up the face, a little to the left of the crack. Move into the crack for belay.2. 30mGo on up the corner until it is possible to use holds on the left wall, which is followed until one is level with a good ledge in a sort of cave to the right. Step across the corner into this and belay off a large bollard.3. 30mClimb the corner, mainly on its left wall, for 6m then begin a rising traverse out across the slab on the left until a welcome white spike runner is reached. Continue the delicate traverse left (exposed) without rising any more until one comes to a shallow line leading upwards with a diagonal trend to the left. Belay on the small ledge at the top of this, adjacent to the yellow diedre.4. 24mMove to the right for a few feet, then climb up the slab for 6m. Ascend diagonally to the right on small but plentiful holds, move into and climb the corner (fairly delicate) until a very small ledge is reached.5. 27mProceed up the slab, just to the left of the corner, until the going becomes thin. Move into the corner and continue up, using layback moves, to a greasy ledge at its top. Move easily on to the right hand wall and so get out on to a big ledge and a belay. Scramble to the summit. Variation 1: After the 4th pitch, move out diagonally left to the middle of the slab and climb directly to the top (exposed and delicate with sparse protection). Variation 2: Terminate the 5th pitch on the greasy ledge at the top of the corner.6. 18mMove diagonally left along a narrow ledge until clear of the overhang above, then climb directly to the top.

Rob Taylor, Reg Williams (alt), Chris Baxter, Jan 1965. Variations: Jim Newlands, Mike Stone, Jan 1966, John Moore, Reg Williams, Jan 1966

MUMC Route No. 4

120m15(Hard Severe)

The climb follows MUMC Route 3 for the first three pitches and then continues to the summit ridge via the previously mentioned hanging gully.4. 20mAscend directly up the gully.5. 36mContinue up to the top, the crux is about 12m above the belay.

John Young, Joan King, Brian Wells, Burnie Rymer, Jan 1952

MUMC Route No. 3

192m14(Severe)

Start: As for North East Corner1. 27mAs for NEC2. 33mContinue up the crack for 18m (crux), then traverse diagonally right into the foot of the large hanging gully which runs down from the centre of the summit ridge.3. 33mTraverse easily across a grassy slope to the right-hand side of the gully.4. 24mMove upwards then make an awkward step right, around a corner, to enter a prominent crack. Continue up the crack.5. 30mContinue up inside the crack. The main face of the top of the peak mass is above and to the left at this stage.6. 35mMove onto, and continue up the face.7. 10mClimb easily to the summit ridge.

Faye Kerr, Bill Brewsher, Dec 1951

Tolerance and Compromise

220m18

Also known as the Toby Bown memorial route, being his birthday. Start: In the middle of the Bechervaise face about 8m left from the lowest part of the cliff, and a similar distance R of a big cleft corner. The route crosses the previous route at the middle of its long traverse.1. 35m 18Start towards a short quartzy L facing corner which finishes at 10m, then move slightly R and up to the next little L facing corner. Up this with difficult undercling step up move to hollow little flake hold, then about 8m up to a point of indecision. Move 5m L to belay.2. 45m 14Lovely rising traverse to R for 10m, then step back L into line which goes through a slight bulge. Continue in line until just before grassy ramp. Follow rock below ramp up to the R for 8m.3. 30m 5Wander up to base of big corner.4. 55m 14Head up recessed buttress just to R of arête, follow weakness to top with glorious rock and climbing.5. 55m 6Bolt up the beautiful solid juggy slap to the summit.

Anders Bown, Kate Snowball, Garn Cooper, 14 Mar 2009.

Two Pools

200m16

The next climb takes a line up the buttress on the R of the face.1. 12Follows a generally upward line from roughly the centre of the buttress. Ends at a ledge with (in 1971) a small pool in a crevice.2&3. 12Continue upwards to the big grassy ledge.4. 16Again staying roughly central on the buttress - up to belay at the top of the buttress where it is separated from the face. A lovely pitch.5&6. 12Step across onto the face (memorable) and easily up the slabs to the top.

Bryan Kennedy and Lyle Closs, 1971.

North Face

The "North" face of Federation Peak is the wall facing the prominent pinnacle at the top of the gully to the north of the summit block. Its right-hand edge is defined by a sharp arête that is visible as the right skyline when viewed from the Bechervaise camp. The North Face is separated from the Bechervaise Face by a large chimney system.

North Face Route

180m19

Access is by walking north, beneath the Bechervaise Face, to the col formed by the summit block and the pinnacle. Start: At the prominent right-facing corner 10m down the gully below the north col.1. 50mUp the corner for 4m and then trend up and R aiming for a shallow groove in a steepening at 30m, approximately 10m R of the main corner. Balance up and R through this to easier ground. Move up and back L to belay in the corner.2. 15mScramble up main corner to large ledge. Belay 10m to the R.3. 40mClimb to the top of a pinnacle below obvious hand cracks through a roof. Ascend wall (crux) and climb through the roof and up the steep crack system above. Escape L beneath the overhangs into the major corner system to belay.4. 25mAscend the corner for 10m until an obvious R leading traverse onto the arête. Traverse R, then move up and R to belay in the middle of the huge upper face.5. 50mStraight up the ocean of quartzite.6.Scramble to summit

Richard Eccleston and Tim Chappell (various leads) 3 Jan 1997.

Expiry Date

180m21

A serious undertaking, same access as the north face route and start. Traverse progressively rightwards for 55m (14) with some runouts to grassy ledge and belay. Traverse 10m right then 7m (16) on small gear up to belay just under the Arete flake system. Follow the steep flakes with expiring biceps and confidence up and right to gain the exposed arete (crux) 25m (21) belay with whatever you can find at the ledge. Up 30m (10) to start of the slab, then 70m (3) scramble to the summit.

Michael Lehmann, Harrie Van De Linde. 23/01/2022

North-West Face and Blade Ridge

The North-West Face and the Blade Ridge together form the most spectacular feature of the Federation Peak massif. Emerging from the clinging vegetation of the Northern Lakes valley, the Blade presents a slim, tapering, vertical face, above which a series of giant, razor-crested steps rise to meet the North-West Face at about 250m below the summit of the mountain. From here, the Face towers as a near vertical wall, its sweep broken first by the Bus Stop ledge and then by a huge overhanging roof 60m below the summit.

The North West Face

330m17

A truly magnificent climb of considerable length and seriousness on rock of suberb quality. Start: To the left of the NW Face is a couloir. Downclimb the chimney at the very top of the couloir and then traverse to the left (looking down) and make an abseil from slings down a steep chimney. Continue scrambling until another steep step is reached and another abseil can be made from a slings around a bollard on the right wall (looking down). From here, continue scrambling down until one is 30m or so below the level of the top of the Blade Ridge and at the foot of a greasy slab on the left-hand (looking down) wall of the couloir. The start of the route is not obvious, there looks like two possible starts, it's the more bushy one to the right. If you reach another steep step, you have gone slightly too far but you do need to get close to that step.1. 24mClimb straight up for 8m over very greasy and bushy rock (poor bush runners). traverse right, into a shallow gully, and after climbing up it a little way go out and up to the right. Belay off a weak spike and a big scoparia bush.2. 36mClimb around the buttress to the right, (bush runner) and then traverse around its side into the corner below the Blade Ridge.3. 30mAscend the corner above and belay off a large bollard on the ledge where the Blade Ridge meets the NW Face.4. 36mHere begins the NW Face proper. Above is a shallow grassy cleft leading up to the right. Follow this, (greasy in places) using a spike and bush runners. Belay on the sloping ledge at the top.5. 22mClimb straight up the crack above for 3m then traverse right and straight up on delicate holds (extremely exposed) to another runner. Continue up steeply, on bigger holds, until a small ledge with a good bollard is reached.6. 36mMove diagonally up left on the easy ramp for 6m then straight on up over loose blocks until a traverse right is possible. Go on up until an obvious, easy traverse left is seen. Follow this and belay on the left hand end of the 'Bus Stop' ledge. The ascent of the Bus Stop pinnacle provides an interesting diversion at this point.7. 33mImmediately above is an obvious diedre which steepens considerably at 18m. Climb the diedre, step out on to the arete on the right and proceed diagonally right on steep rock until a big obvious flake is reached. Continue up steeply, on big holds, until a very small ledge, with an in situ piton, is reached immediately below the large roof.8. 15mProceed with the thin, sustained traverse to the left, toward the chimney through the roof. Move around the rib at the end of the traverse and belay from a chockstone 3m above a poor stance on the rib.9. 27mStart the chimney with some effort (right wall greasy) and climb to a chockstone runner at 5m. Continue up the overhanging chimney, using chockstone runners, to a cramped resting place below the crux. (On the first ascent the leader squeezed through a narrow cleft in the back of the chimney, however subsequent leaders have been unable to fit through and have chimneyed outside the cleft.) Chimney out awkwardly until a tiny ledge on the left wall can be reached. Continue up via easing ground and belay on the large chockstone which blocks the top of the chimney.10. 36mClimb the crack above, then follow the steep ramp which runs diagonally right, towards the summit.11. 36mClimb easily up a large broken crack, then scramble to the summit.

Bob Jones, Jack O'Halloran (alt), Geoff Shaw, and Rob Dunse 2 - 3 Jan 1961

9 .

The North West Face Direct

220m18

This route takes a direct line straight up the NW Face. Start: Either climb Blade Ridge or the first 3 pitches of the NW Face Route to the point where Blade Ridge meets the NW Face.1-4As for NW Face Route to below the big roof.5.Traverse down and right from the belay and then jam out through the 45 degree roof to mantleshelf to a ledge on the lip. Continue up chimney for 5m to ledge on right.6.Up classic chimney.7.Steep and juggy wall to a big ledge. This pitch can easily be combined with pitch 8.8.Chimney-corner to the summit.

Reg Marron, John Croker, Keith Egerton, 1979

10.

Blade Ridge

420m17

Blade Ridge, climbed together with the NW Face, provides a high standard climb of over 600m which is continuously steep (being near vertical for the most part) and unrelenting in standard. Start: In the gully at the foot of the scree chute at the upper end of the Northern Lakes valley. The Blade is the last ridge before the cliffs which fall from the ridge connecting Thwaites Plateau with the Peak. It has an obvious buttress to the right, and a similar blade to the left, and is set back from both of these.1. 60mSolo up through scrub, at a steep angle, to the base of the rock proper2. 27mClimb up through scrub on reasonable holds, using bush runners, until a small grassy ledge is reached3. 45mStep right, and continue up until the angle eases.4. 36mMove up to the right, below the slight but obvious corner. Piton runner (nut in corner). Step further right, then back left, using trees where necessary. Belay on a small ledge at the foot of an overhang.5. 45mMove a few feet up the overhang, then traverse slightly left onto the ridge proper. Move up the cracks until it is necessary to crawl through a large bush at 20m. Move onto the ledge above this and traverse left until the obvious weakness, a fracture, going up to the right is reached. Move up this (awkward), and belay on the ledge at the top.6. 15mClimb back onto the ridge proper. Belay on the first step.7. 24mContinue the line on reasonable holds until a belay can be made at the left-hand side of the ridge, beneath a prominent overhang.8. 24mTraverse across to the right, then back left to the front of the ridge. Move up the overhang, (awkward) on good holds. Belay on the horizontal part of the second step.9. 22mTraverse easily the 22m along the horizontal blade to reach the left-hand corner of a triangular wall.10. 36mMove up the left hand side of the ridge until the next horizontal blade, on the third step, is reached.11. 36mFollow the horizontal ridge until a small overhang is obvious. Move up and around this to the left, (awkward) using a hand jamb, until it is possible to step around on to the left side of the ridge, and on to the horizontal ridge again.12. 50mMove along this last step easily, until the foot of the NW Face proper is reached (the start of pitch 4 of the NW Face Route). Continue up the face or escape by reversing the first 3 pitches of the NW Face Route.

Peter Heddles, Rod Harris, David Neilson, Jack Woods (var), Feb 1968

11.

Joe and Simon Go Gardening

280m+18

Finishes up Direct Finish to original North west face route. This climb is reached by following the southern traverse from Bechervaise Plateau past start of normal ascent route. Continue round mountain and descend into a major gully on R. Route follows prominent arête to bus stop ledge, then directly up off-width to fist crack through overhang, then up slabs to summit. Arête is L of massive roof at approx 150m.1. 50mStart 50m right of arête. Traverse L, then up small ledge 5m right of arête.2. 45mL to arête, then up (protection in crack in L wall) HB.3. 45mUp arête and L wall to good ledge (with mossy seat).4. 50mArête and L wall to big ledge. Traverse along ledge to bus stop ledge (end of new climbing).5. 45mCrux. Major off-width to fist sized crack. Past two pieces of fixed protection and through overhang to comfortable, sitting belay in crack.6. 45mCrack and face and big ledge with broken rock above. A further 70-80m or scrambling leads to the top.

Joe Goding (2,3,5,6) Simon Dadley-Moore (1,4), Jan 1996.

Karl and Mendelt's Route

150m+13

Descend as for Joe and Simon's horticultural expedition and follow the crack/chimney on the RH side of Blade Ridge for about three pitches to the ledge on top of Blade Ridge.

Karl Prinz and Mendelt Tillema, 1973

Western Corner
8.The North West Face17
9 .The North West Face Direct18
10.Blade Ridge17
11.Joe and Simon Go Gardening18
13.Carlyle16
14.Wild West Route13
12Alpine High23

Alpine High

30m23

Proud arete west below summit, start RH side of arete traversing into the LH crack and up, traversing right in the last 5m. Highly technical climbing of increasing steepness with good pro on superb rock.

Michael Lehmann 22/01/2022

13.

Carlyle

270m16

Takes the monster line 30m or so right of the NW Face direct route. Start: Along the Southern Traverse to the top of the last NW facing gully. Scramble down on the LH side of the gully. Start where the RH side of the gully finishes in a grassy ledge. Belay on this ledge.1. 42mMove up from the ledge on good holds then around a corner onto the Western Face proper. Follow an obvious traverse over large blocks to a scrubby ledge. Big cracker belay. Editor's note: I've got no idea what a 'cracker' is, but I presume it means wide pro.2. 36mClimb the crappy crack above. Move on to the right wall at the old slings, then up and back into the crack. Climb the corner to a small cracker belay at the start of the obvious traverse line.3. 44mMove out right on small scrubby ledges then up and back left past a block, following the obvious weaknesses towards a scoparia bush. Go up to a ledge before reaching the bush.4. 40mClimb the crack above to a large belay ledge.5. 42mClimb the crack taking whatever side you wish.6. 45mContinue up to an exit on the left of a large obstruction and belay on a very large ledge.7. 27mClimb straighten up over a chock stone then follow an obvious, easy chimney to the top.

K. Prinz, L. Closs, Jan 1971

14.

Wild West Route

245m13

This route is on the west face, which faces Hanging Lake. Start: Along the Southern Traverse to the top of the last NW facing gully.1. 39mGo right then up behind a pillar to some chockstones.2. 45mTraverse down to the grassy ledge.3. 36mMove up then left at the corner, then zig-zag a few times until a ledge is reached.4. 42mMove up then left along a hand traverse then up for a while to belay below an overhanging crack.5. 36mMove out on to the right wall or straight up the crack, then continue up easily and belay near a row of loose blocks.6. 45mMove up the cracks to the right. No protection is available for moving straight up. Another possibility would be to go out to the left and then up. Move back left and up obvious final corner.

L. Closs, K. Prinz (alt) Jan 1971.

South Western Cliffs

These form the somewhat broken aspect which the Peak presents when viewed from the vicinity of Hanging Lake.

The Southern Traverse

1km, 1 to 2 hours

This is the high level route from Bechervaise Plateau to Thwaites Plateau. It traverses across the steep southern face of Federation Peak. The route now has track marker but there is some dangerous and awkward scrambling with tremendous exposure: there have been at least two fatalities here and great care is required care to cross it safely. If you are carrying a pack allow up to double the times given above. The route is also used to gain access to the normal route to the summit.
Start on the Terrace, near the foot of the Climbing Gully, at the top of a deep cleft (Geeves Window) through which Lake Geeves is visible. Pass through the cleft and descend steeply until an easy traverse to the west is possible. Climb a narrow couloir, passing under an enormous chockstone, to reach the top of a broad buttress against the main summit block. Continue west, and descend from the buttress into the broad which runs down from the SW corner of the Peak. Ascend this couloir, and follow the ridge toward Thwaites Plateau and Hanging Lake.

MUMC Route No. 1

75m

Start: In the upper part of the broad couloir on the south side of the deep notch formed where the ridge from Thwaites Plateau joins the peak. Climb directly up, over rock of varying difficulty, and via a prominent chimney, to a point where descent into Geeves Gully is possible.

Bill Brewsher, Joan King, Dec 1951.

Normal Route

100m5

This is the cairned route to the summit used by bushwalkers. It follows roughly the same line as MUMC Route No. 2. Start about half way along the Southern Traverse at a large cairn on top of the 'broad buttress'. Follow cairns directly up the slope to the foot of a rocky step in the gully above. Climb this by traversing up left then right up the ramp. About 10m higher up, the track leads left out of the gully across steep rock into the next short gully. Climb steeply up this gully for 30m then follow the steep ridge up right for another 20m. Above sheer rock walls bar the way. The route heads right to the foot of a rocky wall. Climb steeply up the comer on the left of the wall then follow the ledge right and climb the shallow groove in the centre of the wall to the grassy ramp above. Continue up the ramp into the top of Geeves Gully. Climb the gully to the ridge crest and follow the left ridge to the roomy summit and log book.

Brian Wells, John Young, Dec 1951. Cairned in 1967 by the HWC.

MUMC Route No. 5

140m

Start as for the Normal Route. Climb up a long gully leading towards the summit, until the way is blocked by a large overhang. Bypass this on the right and climb directly to the summit.

Bill Brewsher, Bruce Graham (alt.) Jan 1952.

MUMC Route No. 6

140m

Start as for the Normal Route. Climb the arete to the left of the long gully of MUMC Route 5. On reaching the overharng ascend the chimney on its left and continue to the summit.

Faye Kerr, John Young (alt.) Jan 1952.