thesarvo

Blackmans Bay

25 Routes051015<1616-1920-2425+TradSport
  • WalkNo walk if you've got a kayak.
  • SunMorning sun
  • RockShort dolerite buttresses straight above the sea. Prepare to get wet!

Acknowledgement

by Nick Hancock, originally published in Craglets 6.

Introduction

This climbing area is unique in Tasmania in that it consists solely of deep-water solos, a distinct sub-sport developed in sunny south-west England. As a result no ropes are necessary, but a kayak is useful to access the central and most extensive of the three areas. The rock is excellent dolerite rarely more than five metres high with, usually, good deep water to crater into. Deep water soloing is not without risks however, so keep an eye on the waves and weather and the odd rock lurking just below the surface!

Access

There are three areas which have been climbed on. The southernmost of them is Double Zawn which is reached by driving 5km south of Blackmans Bay towards Tinderbox, and parking at an unfenced paddock opposite Block 267, from where a scramble leads down to Fishermans Haul Beach. Traverse north to twin narrow zawns. To get to the main area, Pinnacle Zawn, drive to Blackmans Bay and kayak south for about 2km until you spot a square pinnacle in the entrance of a deep zawn. Haul the boats out on the ledge at the northern entrance to the zawn. Alternatively, this area can be reached by driving down Fossil Cove Drv to the coast and then traversing south (possibly some short swims). To get to Soldiers Rocks, drive south out of Blackmans Bay for 1 km on Tinderbox Road then turn left on Suncoast Drive. From the driveway of numbers 47-59 head south behind the gardens of number 63 to steps leading down to the marine reserve, then scramble south to a long south facing wall.

Crag Steward

Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (hobartcraglets@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

blackmans bay map.png

Double Zawn

Traverse

★★15m24

Traverse the south-facing wall of the first zawn, just below a small roof.

Up

★5m25

From a short way along the traverse pull over the roof.

Twin Cracks

★10m17

Climb the cracks on the left side of the south-facing wall of the second zawn.

Wall

★10m21

The intimidating wall to the right.

Scoopy Arête

★★10m19

You guessed it, climb the scoopy arête, just inside the zawn.

Smalex

★7m16

The neat corner on the sunny side of the zawn - opposite the twin cracks.

Alex Doedens Jan 2025

Pinnacle Zawn

Al's Wall

★5m24

The blankish wall just left.

Fingerin' the Groove

★5m22

The shallow groove in the north-facing wall past Stuck in the Pipe.

Stuck In the Pipe

★★30m17

About 70m south again, traverse above a narrow seacave in an exciting position.

Fatman's Splash

★★★25m25

About 100 m south of Pinnacle Zawn traverse the big buttress via an amazing handrail just above the water. Easier from left to right.

Fat-boy Swim

★★25m21

Takes the higher line across the big buttress.

About 100m further north is the next zawn. This is the zawn canoeists will probably arrive at as it has a ledge on its northern side suitable for boat landing.

Walking on Sunshine

★★70m22

Traverse the south wall of the main zawn right into the cave.

Abalone Diva

★20m26

Continue left from the chimney on Danni's Pants.

Danni's Pants

★★10m20

Traverse left from the haulout, and climb the chimney.

Pet Detective

★5m22

Arete left of Acapulco, traverse in along Danni's Pants to access

Acapulco

★★★5m25

The blank looking wall just inside the zawn, opposite the pinnacle.

Boatman's Edge

★★5m23

The lovely arête at the northern entrance to the main zawn.

The isolated pinnacle (aka "The Tombstone block") has a route on each corner.

NE Arête of the Pinnacle

★5m18

The arête.

NW Arête of the Pinnacle

★5m22

The arête.

SW Arête of the Pinnacle

5m20

The arête.

SE Arête of the Pinnacle

5m19

The arête.

There is a sub-zawn on the north side of the boat launch ledge.

Northern Traverse

20m22

Traverse around the sub zawn from the boat haulout.

Ace Ventura

★5m20

Techy slab using sharp arete 6m left of Barefoot Contessa, access via Northern Traverse

Barefoot Contessa

★5m22

The arete across the sub zawn, north of the boat haulout.

Soldiers Rocks

Atomic Kitten

★★★30m25

Traverses the south facing wall 80 m south of the offshore island. High tide and calm seas needed.