Fruehauf

TR: Start on the extreme L of the cliff below the overhanging wall. Climb the easy slab to the overhanging wall, then follow the jugs above to the top.

Evan Peacock, Nov 1989.

TR: An exciting route up the steep wall immediately L of Bedside Manners are Extra. Follow a series of holds to a small ledge on the RH arête of the overhanging wall. Continue up to 'top out' in a fringe of sag grass growing over the top. The rock on the bottom half looks very chossy, but is surprisingly solid.

Evan Peacock, Nov 1990.

The easiest climb around. Start at the base of a 3m head-wall toward the L of the cliff. Climb the short crux wall, then continue steeply up the wall to the open-book corner. Ascend this easily to finish. Alternatively, can be started immediately L of Plastic Extras and climbed straight up the corner, maybe a tad easier. U-bolts plus TR chain at top.

Peter Steane, Nov 1982.

Start 1m R of Bedside Manners are Extra, just L of Plastic Erection and ascend the face with a leftwards trend (but not as far as the easy corner). Under-cling past the small roof, then continue directly up the crux arête above on sloping holds. Finish up the thin face above. A bit contrived, but still good.

A great climb. Climb up for a few metres then move rightwards to the obvious lay-away flake. Move L to better holds, then follow the weakness above to finish at the blocks. U-bolts plus chain at top.

Craig Maddock, 1983.

The great traverse. Start up Plastic Erection and head across R on bolts to finish at a chain midway up GT. A very sustained outing.

Marcel Jackson, Jul 1993.

A challenging climb, especially in an old pair of boots or barefoot! Start 2m R of Plastic Erection. Climb the easy wall, then move R a few metres to a ledge where the difficulties and bolts commence. Climb directly to the start of a rising rightwards facing lay-away edge. Ascend this, then the face above.

Grant Rowbottom, 1996.

A sustained link-up that guarantees a good workout. Start up Gun Ho, stepping L at jugs, finishing up Cadwallada. Dynamic, technical with a heartbreaking finish.

T.Caldwell Dec 2012

A big dyno and thin face climbing characterise this line. Start just L of Sucks Ethics. U bolts to a lower-off.

Evan Peacock, May 1992.

Climbs the blank face to the L of the upper section of SE. Bolts and vision by Garry, only for the route to be stolen by the one and only Jake the snake. Could be a bit harder.

Jake Bresnehan 2009

This sustained climb, in addition to its neighbour to the R, are 'the classics' of the cliff. They speak for the benefits of (dare I say it) chipping, for without this (filthy) practice the climbs would not exist! The climb quickly gets into the swing of it with a dynamic sequence of moves to get off (and often back onto) the ground. After reaching the ledge, continue up past four U-bolts. After the last bolt, move slightly L then up to finish. Both this climb and Anaphalaxis may easily be top-roped from the same chain, though a lead is strongly recommended.

Phil Bigg.

TR: A training contrivance - nothing else. Start just R of Suck Ethics. Dyno-dyno-dyno to reach the RH side of the horizontal slot on Suck Ethics. Trend R and up to reach the pocket on Anaphalaxis and dyno L to the pocket on Suck Ethics. Layback straight up to finish.

Evan Peacock, Aug 1993.

If you're too short to do the Anaphalaxis dyno then use the good initial hold to move L to bolt and then up to the horizontal break and finish as for Anaphalaxis.

A sustained line up the center of the cliff with a very hard crux start. To leave the ground step up, use the bolt on the R then 'dyno' for a hold at 3m and then up to the horizontal break. Continue up to the small roof and a huge jug just below a rightwards trending overlap. Follow this past the mono (if you're tall enough) then power on to the top. Another chipped (and now glued up!) classic.

Simon Parsons, Apr 1982.

Re-bolted 2011. Another good, sustained route. Start: either do the desperate reachy start (25) or, much more pleasantly, come in from Anaphalaxis (from the L).

Evan Peacock, May 1993.

The only things wasted after this climb are your fingertips - you won't spend days on it! Power up the tweaky holds, past a bolt, to a jug. Continue easily up then move leftwards until below the overlap, follow the LH of two final U-bolts using the two-finger pocket to the L to obtain the solitary jug in the smooth face, mantle the ledge above and move R to chains.

At the final overlap on WD a tricky move R leads to an alternative finish past a U-bolt leading to the WD chains.

TR: Must be brushed first, the route is thin and smeary. 2 bolt TR anchors at the top. Start: virtually at General Benefit, but shares none of the holds, stay just L of General Benefit then head leftwards at two-thirds height.

Evan Peacock, Oct 1992.

Up General Benefit to the 3rd bolt then head L passing another bolt and into the seam finishing as for Wasted Daze RHF clipping its last bolt.

Guy Abell, Oct 2013

The wall 2m L of Bondage and Discipline. The current speed record (from ground level to a hand on the jug at the very top) is held by Evan Peacock at 27 seconds, but the departure of some significant holds have made things much more difficult. After the initial reachy start, continue up through layaways and better holds to more difficult moves just after the second bolt. After gaining the crack, finish up the dirty jugs above. (Editors note: a large flake fell off a year or two back, plus a fairly crucial hold further up, and the grade has definitely increased from the original 19!).

Simon Parsons, Apr 1982.

Start up Bondage and Discipline until the roof. Then climb straight up on good but well spaced holds (a little harder if your short) & finish at General Benefit chains.

Justin Kennedy, 1984.

A fairly sustained route which gets more strenuous with height. Climb directly up until alongside the roof (where a piton used to exist before gravity got the better of it and a climber). Traverse right 2m, past the scar left as another large block jumped ship, then ascend the overhanging face above. Up this to lower-off above.

Phil Steane Nov 82.

Some think this route is worthy of a star and an easy tick for the grade. Start immediately right of Bondage and Discipline before the ground falls away. Step right, move up and to the right, past a U-bolt, to good jugs at half height. Continue up the steep wall past the second U-bolt, then ascend the blankish face (crux) above the third U-bolt. Chain anchor at top.

Start as for Bad Habits for the first 2 bolts then head right around the arête and up to the large heuco. Head up to the chains.

TR: On the extreme R of the cliff, the ground falls away: start here. Ascend the initial overhanging face. Move left around the arête, then continue up past the bolts of Bad Habits. The climb makes a pleasant lead if you start by stick-clipping the first bolt of Bad Habits.

TR Peter Steane, 1984.

TR: Start as for Genital Thrust. Climb straight through the overhang, then ascend the RH side of the prow. Finish via the hole (visible from the ground). Good value.

TR Richard Marshall, Feb 1987.

TR: Although the rock looks shitty, this is an excellent route, a really good pump for the length and it awaits a direct variant. Start about 2m right of GT/GT, set up TR belay from a tree about 5m left and uphill from the top of the climb.

TR Evan Peacock, Jan 1993.