Mad Monkeys
40 min uphill
All day sun
15m high broken dolerite, reasonably steep
Acknowledgement
from previous work by Stefan Eberhard, originally published in Craglets.
Introduction
This hot little crag was developed by Vera Wong and Stefan Eberhard during spring 1991. There’s a half-hour slog to get there but hey, you’ll be warmed up for the steep and steamy cranking to follow. For dolerite the rock is uncharacteristically steep - often gently overhanging. Hours of patient hand drilling by the dynamic duo has given the crag a sport climbing feel. However the odd bit of natural gear is still required on some of the routes. The cliff has been known as “Possum Rock” or “Monkey’s Noggin” in the past. Stefan reckons “Mad Monkeys” has a better ring to it and since he and Vera did all the development work, that’s cool by me. Stefan also says “I’ve seen no other printed references to Monkey’s Noggin to precedent it”. Who gives a toss what it’s called, just get up there, clip and crank, flash or fly! The cliff has a pleasant sunny aspect so is well suited for winter climbing. Don’t choose a windy day though as it can be quite exposed.
The four routes on the main face were completely re-equipped in 2009 (by Roger Parkyn and Jeremy Spong). No natural gear is now required for these and you can lower off. Together with King Ryobi this gives a good collection of "sport" routes.
Access
There are three ways to get to Mad Monkeys:
A) Walk on 4WD tracks from Risdon Dam. Start by going in the direction of Mt Direction until that route turns steeply uphill to the left (about 2 km from the dam carpark). From that junction, continue going northwards to the saddle that the transmission lines come over (another 1.5 km). On the saddle there is a gate; don't cross it but turn left and follow the fenceline for about 100 m then start contouring westwards. With any luck you'll see the cliffs above you after about 200 m from the fence. This route is MTB viable as far as the saddle (i.e. 300 m from the cliff).
B) Drive to the end of Kandos Drive (which is off East Derwent Hwy, about 3 km up river from the Bowen Bridge) and park at the end. From here walk about 80 m north and then turn right and follow a grassy vehicle access route for another 50 m. From here a 4WD track goes north. Follow it for about 700 m and then begin a rising diagonal up a paddock towards a spur. When then crest of the spur is reached, contour around eastwards towards the cliff (about 1 km from the spur). The cliff can be found at the GPS point below. Alternatively, follow this GPX file from Kandos Dr: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AimvZkE_GAzmiuAR14jc9SxRAl4Faw?e=EGEozX.
C) The original walking route is slightly shorter than the above but is currently closed. It went up Thirsty Gully from a point on East Derwent Hwy where Cassidys Rd joins it.
Crag Steward
Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (hobartcraglets@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
GPS
Start as for King Ryobi, then head left clipping the first bolt on Romeo is Bleeding, then up left and around the arete onto the headwall above. Rudy bolts and loose rock. Lower off at top.
James Trainer Aug 2014
Start up the first 2 bolts of King Ryobi then veer left at the steep bit following the FH's. Some ledge fall potential. Lower off at top.
Adam Donoghue Jan 2011
The line of U’s up the mega-bulge. Awesome! Fantastic cranking too. Follow the U's until near the top, where it is better to climb about a meter right of the last two U's.
Nick Hancock Sep 2001
Corner.
R.Eberhard Oct 1991
Face.
R.Eberhard, Oct 1991.
Climbs the arete just around left from main wall. A steep start leads to continually interesting climbing on or just L or arete. Lower offs with steel biners for now.
Liam Mangan Smith, Neale Smith - Supported by Stuart Ferguson & Oskar Donnelly - 3 August 2025
The next 4 routes were re-equipped in 2009 by Roger Parkyn and Jeramie Spong. Natural gear is now not required for any of them and lower-offs exist to get down. The bolts shown on the topo are shown wrong.
U's to the lower-off. Pumpy all the way.
Vera Wong Oct 1991.
Crux at the first bolt leads to a pumpy bulge before easing higher up. Originally the crux was climbed going up and right from the first U but a hold has broken off that making it much harder (25?). An easier (23) alternative, which still climbs quite nicely, is available by climbing about half a meter left of the first U, then up to a gaston to connect rightwards to the big holds before the second U.
Stefan Eberhard Nov 1991.
Pumpy and sustained - good fun.
Stefan Eberhard Nov 1991.
The right-most route on the front face. Occasionally uses the arete on the right.
Vera Wong Nov 1991.
Corner.
S.Eberhard Nov 1991.
2 bolts then tiny CDs.
S.Eberhard Nov 1991.
4 bolts. Go directly up through the overhang past 3 bolts, then head right to finish at the lower offs as for Walking Spanish. (Originally graded 26 but 24 if you take the logical approach slightly left, some might say 25).
E.Peacock Aug 1993. Re-bolted September 2014.
Start 1.5m to the right of Goating Around. Head up through steep, powerful bulge to finish on the same anchor and lower offs as Goating Around.
James Trainer September 2014