Gunners Quoin

Way up left of the other climbs described, on a white patch of rock visible from the highway. Climb the face and roof to DBB.

Nick Hancock, Doug McConnell, Roger Parkyn, Sarah Hedges Nov 2003.

Start around the LH corner of Exploded Goat Buttress in a small alcove. Mantle on top of block which overlooks the buttress, step around L into a wide chimney, bridge up and face climb to top of pinnacle. Follow face up and R to a large she-oak. Rap off. Suprisingly good.

J. Tiller, R. Marshall and R. Cockerill, Mar 1995.

The best way to access the Unlevel Playing Field.

Start 4m right of FL on main face of buttress. Originally done as lead solo in one pitch but recommended to be done in two pitches. 1) 30m Up steep crack moving slighty left to follow LH crack, which has hands, fist and wide section. Get to ledge on pillar, good spot for belay. 2) 35m Series of ledges with some good moves. Finishes on LH end of unlevel playing field.

Fraser L-R July 2022, Lead solo

A large block sits near the arête on the LH end of the Buttress. Start round the corner to the R of the block, L of a lichened wall, below an obvious corner line. Follow the main crack line through a small roof at the top. Rap from tree.

T. Meldrum, J. McKenny and T. McKenny, Jun 1995.

The direct finish of TSL goes up the bottomless corner to the left of the rooflet. Climb corner and clip chains of TSL to right.
*Ill add its own dedicated lower-off soon*

Fraser L-R & Anne Knox, Dec 2022

The striking thin crack that splits the most LH most pillar on the buttress, is the first piece of rock to get sun. A perfect hand crack turns thin, then goes around to the right of rooflet to gain another thin finger and handcrack to top. DBB.

Fraser L-R & Alex Lawson, Sep 2022

Scramble up 3m left of EI, passing large gum, climb the double offwidth corner cracks to finish.

Fraser L-R, July 2022, Lead solo

Start about 10m left of Man of the Moon. Scrambling for about 12m leads to the base of a hand crack. The hand crack is about 2m right of the medium sized gum that appears to be growing out of the rock half way up the cliff.

Roger Parkyn, Apr 1993.

Start at the left end on the front face of the buttress. Climb the long outstanding corner crack, with a small roof to finish.

Peter Steane

Follow the crack-line up the middle of the front of the buttress. At half height, pass a small overhang (crux) then follow the superb finger/hand crack above to easier ground.

Roger Parkyn, Aug 1991.

*Death block*-ill remove soon.
A fine and varied route. Start up the hand crack left of the arete that rises above the col (and lunch boulder). When the crack peters out move right to the arete and clip the first of two bolts. This is where the fun starts. The crux is right at the end.

Roger Parkyn, 1991.

Take the crack line left of the chimney. The start is steep. Further up the crack widens from hand size to off width. Thankfully the off width is not too tricky.

Scramble up to the left of Jammin for De Lord to belay beside a large charred stump. Climb the crack above to a corner and then a roof to finish. Pull around left on jams, then belay on the large ledge (alternatively it is possible to avoid this overhang by passing to its left, making the climb one or two grades easier). To descend, move around to the left to find a suitable rap tree.

Doug Fife.

Natural gear to the bulge followed by three stainless Us and more gear if you want it. The rebolter would like to apologize for not moving the first bolt. bring a kong panic draw.

Evan Peacock, Sep 1994 rebolted 2022.

Finger-lock up the crack just left of Illegal Use of an Opiate.

Gerry Narkowicz, Feb 1985.

This is the crack directly below the abseil tree. Pleasant jamming with good pro.

Phil Steane (solo).

Start at the same place as Illegal Use of an Opiate but go rightwards into the corner which is capped by a roof at 5m. The climbing is superb; intellectual as much as physical. Rap off the tree.

Doug Fife.

The face climb just right of Reefer Madness. Bolts were added in '92 to facilitate a direct finish (MDMA). These bolts help make the original route leadable although wires and small CDs are still required.

TR Evan Peacock, Aug 1982. *rebolted 2022

Direct finish to INAND. DBB lower-off.

Evan Peacock, 1993. *rebolted 2022

An excellent route. Climb up the big black streak below a bulge. There is a bolt under the bulge. Continue up for 5m past another bolt. Finish either to the left to a large ledge or directly through another bulge (or step right and rap off the anchor for Falling Shakes).

Evan Peacock, Jul 1985.

In Grant's words "easily the best climb in Hobart". Yeah, we've heard that before but the lad has found a real gem here. Very sustained, very techo and not easy. Follow the line of bolts to a bolted rap anchor. DBB lower-off.

Grant Rowbottom, Apr 1993. *rebolted 2022

Start down below the jammed block beneath Deep End. Follow the broken corner to join Deep End at about 10m. From here move left and climb the thin crack and wall (crux). Continue up the corner.

Steve Hamilton, Sep 1991.

Classic crack cranking on the wall left of House of Fun. Up the line through the wide crack, then step left and ascend the hand/fist crack through the steepening at the top. Descend via DBB abseil station at RHS of ledge at top.

Ian Lewis, 1974.

Don't be put off by the grass and vegetation, as this is a fine route despite appearances. Climb up cracks then crank through the steep juggy zone at half height (to the right of the prominent yellow overhang on the wall). The finishing crack has a thorny bush growing in it but this is easily by-passed. DBB at top.

Phil Steane.

A bouldery start up the face for 3m leads to a stance on a small ledge. Climb the tricky finger-crack above, then continue following the line to the DBB.

Pete Steane.

If you want to do the boulder problem start it is advisable to scramble up to the base of Magic Number and place some gear in the horizontal break at 3m. From the break climb up the arete to a bolt (gear can be placed in the crack on the left). The crux is climbing up the arete near the bolt.

Evan Peacock, Jun 1986.

Technical (but non-strenuous) climbing makes this an interesting route. It is well protected, although small cams are handy. Climb the corner to a ledge, then continue to the main horizontal ledge system another 5m up, using the right crack (the one without the tree).

Doug Fife.

A fine corner line. Clipping the fixed peg at about 4m provides most of the difficulties. An easy but pleasant finish leads to the ledge which crosses the cliff.

Doug Fife.

Excellent face climbing between Down to Zero and No Dams. Some good RP runners (if you think there are such things, Ed.) and a fixed peg (to the right) protect the lower section. When you reach the micro-overhang a metre or two past the peg, start moving rightwards to easier ground.

Evan Peacock, Jun 1984.

Up the main corner to a ramp.

C.Dawson, 1974.

Climb directly up the wall to the immediate right of No Dams. Thankfully it has recently been retro-bolted by Evan but a large friend would still be handy near the top.

Evan Peacock, Jun 1984.

Climb the wall 1.5m right of the small pillar above Interstate (no pro) then step left onto the pillar. Climb the shallow crack for 3m, traverse left to a groove line then up to a large tree.

Steve Hamilton, Sep 1991.

Start from the ledge where House of Fun finishes. It is hardest at the bottom. Start behind the small tree. Climb up the face to a small ledge then move right into a crack. Climb up this until it starts to overhang, then move right again to finish.

Editors note: This climb is included for historical reference only. Anyone else naming climbs with such outlandishly pukish names will not see it published in this fine piece of literature. Try Mills & Boon.

S.Eberhard, V.Wong, May 1991.

Start at the chains at the top of House of Fun. Climb the crack and through the roof on very thin holds (crux). Editor's note: I have some doubts about the description re location.

Volker Jurisch, Nov 1993.

This is the continuation of No Dams. Chimney bridge and jam up the side of a large pillar. Step right onto the top of the pillar then finish up the easy corner.

C.Dawson, 1974.

A nice third pitch to follow No Dams and Cold Duck. From the Pillar above Cold Duck Step left and up face holds and underclings. Move right and up hand crack/s to finish at a large block. Walk off the east side.

S.Goss, J.Parkes 2007.

This route takes the corner line between the large block overhangs up and right of No Dams. Step right onto the arete at the top of the corner. Tricky route finding to the top. Protection is a bit thin, but good.

D.Bowman, 1976.

Start 3m left of Trap Door. Climb up to a rib of rock on the left side of the small overhang at 3m height. Pass the next overhang on the left then clip the first of two bolts. Move right to climb the prow of the buttress. The crux, passing the second bolt, is interesting and technical. Small CDs are useful in horizontals.Direct version 23?

Hamish Jackson 1992.

Start up the chimney behind a pillar to reach a ledge at about 8m. Climb the body crack above this through a small roof. Move right to finish up the crack left of Slope Face.

Ian Lewis, 1974.

Climb a broken blocky corner to a ledge. Finish up the good clean hand crack on right wall.

Ian Lewis, 1974.

An aesthetic line. Fine, well-protected corner climbing despite being slightly dirty. Start off the block accessed from the right.

Ian Lewis, 1974.

This route starts in the gully on the right of Slope Buttress and is on the wall opposite it. The route can be recognised as it follows three parallel cracks going straight upwards.

Phil Steane (solo).

Climb straight up the left-hand line (hand crack) of the two parallel cracks. Quite strenuous.

Mick Steane, 1976.

The crack 2m right of Quadriceps which involves one wide section.

Mick Steane, 1976.