thesarvo

The Promised Land

40 Problems01020VE-23-56-89+
  • Walk50-60 min

Introduction

This is a large area of featured dolerite. It has potential to hold some of the best and hardest lines on the mountain. Only a small number of the potential lines have been developed so far.

History

This area was discovered in late 2022

Access

To find The Promised Land follow the south wellington track for about half an hour until you reach the signpost for the rocking stone (The sign is missing). Follow the cairned route towards the rocking stone for about 100m then head right towards the edge of the plateau. Scramble down the the boulder field staying left of the vegetated gull and right of any other vegetation patches. Keep going until the size of the boulders increases again, this is the Main Ridge area. The good sized boulders continue down to the tree line.

Main Ridge

This is the ridge you walk down to access the area.

1.

Avoid Destiny

V5(SDS)

Start on sharp crimp then head left

Lewis Traill, 2025

2.

Manifest Destiny

V8(SDS)

Start on sharp crimp, head straight up centre of the slab.

Lewis Traill, 2025

3.

Oswald

★★V1(SDS)

Start left hand on crimp right on low side pull. Steep but juggy.

Tarn Hingston, 2025

4.

Burford

★★V0(Hang)

Start on jug, mantle the point of the boulder.

Tarn Hingston, 2025

5.

This April Morning

V1(Stand)

Ewan Barry, 2023

6.

Scoparia Slab

V2(Stand)

The slab just past This April Morning. Please look after the scoparia!

Lewis Trail, 2023

7.

The Soccer Ball

★V8(SDS)

Sit start compressing face, a big move up then mantle.

Joe Schwarz, 2024

8.

Subterranean Homesick Alien

★V3(SDS)

Start under boulder. left hand on on crimp right on lowest rail. Make powerful move up right and continue to top.

Joe Schwarz, 2024

9.

The Pit of Despair

V0(SDS)

Roof crack under the same boulder as Subterranean Homesick Alien. Start on low chockstone and exit through squeeze.

Tim McEldowney

10.

Bogan Crows

V1(SDS)

Sit start on diagonal rail then head up and left via interesting holds.

Tarn Hingston, 2024

The first boulder you reach when heading down the ridge is First Stop Boulder. Climbs are located on the steep, downhill side of the boulder. Potential for about 5 lines.

11.

First Stop

★★V4(SDS)

Start sitting on block compressing left hand low on rail right hand on low sloper/crimp. Compress your way out to jug on face. Topout needs more cleaning.

Raul Schwarz, 2022

The next two problems are directly below First Stop

12.

Mullet Paradise

V1(SDS)

Start on left and head up through edges and finger locks.

Dane Schellen-Berg, 2022

13.

Henri Mollet

VE(SDS)

Start as for Mullets In Paradise, traverse right then top out.

Dane Schellen-Berg, 2022

A bit further down and left from First Stop is Spannend

14.

Spannend

V7(SDS)

Start on obvious pinch and low horizontal crack. Head up and right.

Raul Schwarz, 2022

15.

Nachtessen

V2

Middle of block to the right

Joe Schwarz, 2022

16.

Abendbrot

V1(SDS)

Start right, mantle onto ledge and up.

Will Grant, 2022

A bit further down hill is a hard project

IMG_1728.jpg
17.

Mist Project

V?(Stand)

There is a nice featured prow on the right at the same level as the Mist Project.

18.

Bowling Alley

★V7(Stand)

Start on far left of boulder and traverse right on slopers to finish up Rauls Bad Dreams

Riley Thurstans, 2023

19.

Rauls Bad Dreams

★★V10(Hang)

Start on good holds head up and left via burly compression moves. Chockstone is out.

Ollie Miller, 2022

20.

Project

V?(Hang)

Start the same as Rauls Bad Dreams then head straight up using right arete

21.

Arctic Blast

★V3(SDS)

Sit Start on good hold on the lip of the hanging face behind Rauls Bad Dreams.

Joe Schwarz, 2023

Continue south on the same level to reach some boulders at base of a highball face.

22.

Seams Alright

V1(SDS)

Layback up seam to finish on ledge

Joe Schwarz, 2022

23.

Party Hat

V0(SDS)

Up Little pinnacle

Dylan Tubaro, 2022

Just past the previous problems head up the hill to find a cave

24.

Himmel Und Erde

★★★V7(SDS)

Sit start at back of cave, big moves lead to a tricky move to gain the lip and mantle, top out up groove.

Raul Schwarz, 2022

Further south and slightly down hill is an obvious slab

25.

Strawberry Fields

★V1(Stand)

Stand start with good holds on left of face, lovely climbing up slab.

Joe Schwarz, 2022

26.

Banana Smoothie

V5(SDS)

Sit start in middle of the face, head straight up via tricky moves

Lewis Trail, 2022

27.

Pineapple Fudge

V3(SDS)

Start as for Banana Smoothie but head left across slopers into Strawberry Fields

Joe Schwarz, 2022

28.

Lemon Slice

V1(Stand)

Aaron Galligan, 2022

Up hill from the slab back towards the cliff line is a small face

29.

Small And Stout

V2(SDS)

Sit start on middle of face

Joe Schwarz, 2022

30.

Spring Bean

V4(SDS)

Contrived. Same start but head right and dyno to top.

Lewis Trail, 2022

Keep following the cliffline up hill until you reach a featured face

31.

Waterguns

★★★V8(SDS)

Up face via thin sidepull crimp

Aaron Galligan, 2022

A bit further, past a high face.

32.

Penguin Crime Ring

★V4(SDS)

Sit start on good sidepull. Follow holds trending left to top out.

Tarn Hingston, 2024

33.

Penguin Crime Ring Direct

V4(SDS)

Same as Penguin Crime Ring but mantle straight up.

Tim McEldowney, 2024

If you continue down hill from the Mist project you arrive at at shattered plains

34.

Shattered Plains

★V6(Hang)

Hang start on lowest jugs, some tricky moves up the face above.

Lewis Trail, 2022

35.

Coupe Longueuil

V1(SDS)

Compression line up block left of Shattered Plains

Dane Schellen-Berg, 2022

On the small ridge south of Shattered Plains (directly below Rauls Bad Dreams) is a nice face.

36.

Fish Lips

★★V6(SDS)

Climbs the arete and face. Sit start with a crimp in the roof and left hand on positive rail.

South Ridge

This is the next ridge south, across the vegetated gully. There is potential for some good lines near the bottom of the ridge.

This climb is located across the gully from Waterguns.

37.

The Other Slab

V0(Stand)

Easy slab.

Ewan Barry, 2023

38.

Led by the Prophets

V2

Start on the rail.

Oliver Thomas, 2025

39.

Led by the Profits

★V3

Start on furthest right crimp and edge in face.

Raul Schwarz, 2025

40.

Solid State Diffusion

★★V8(Stand)

Start on good sidepuls. Technical compression using the arete near the top.

Joe Schwarz, 2025