Proctors Road Quarry

Climb the slab and corner above. Can be protected naturally although the gear isn't very inspirational at the crux - the route used to have a fixed piton at this point (there is a hangerless dynabolt just above this point but it is hard to clip).

Adrian Herington.

Climb the slab and face to the flaky roof. Move up this, then follow the face above to the top.

Simon Parsons, May 1983.

Four bolts lead to a chain. Simon Parsons Mar 83. A direct start up the faint arête 2m to the left was added Dec/93 by Marcel Jackson. Careful with the bolts on this one.

Start 1.5m left of Hit Me Quick. Three bolts. Careful with the bolts on this one.

Marcel Jackson, Oct 1993.

Start just left of Sister Morphine Direct. Climb the slab then continue as for Sister Morphine. Originally the route had no gear but it has recently been retro-bolted (six bolts) and is now an excellent climb.

Evan Peacock (solo), Oct 1984.

A direct line up the Sister Morphine groove. Originally the route had almost no gear.

Simon Parsons, Mar 1983.

The groove at the gum tree. Move right of the groove. A bolt to the right of the groove offers some protection at about 20m.

To the right of Sister Morphine is a leftwards trending flake system going up to a roof. The direct start is quite hard, although you can start it just to the right at an easier grade. Clip the bolt up under the roof at 20m, and then pass it on the left.

Simon Parsons, Mar 1983.

Start about 3m left of Quick Trip, climbing past one fixed hanger then finishing as for Quick Trip (shares its second bolt).

Jon Tiller, Jun 1994.

Starts about 15m left of Overdose, just to the left of the incipient overhanging crack (project). Climb up past three fixed hangers, traversing right when the ledge is reached.

Marcel Jackson, Jun 1994.

About midway along the back wall of the lower tier is a blank looking and gently overhanging wall. Climb up past three bolts, with crux moves near the top.

Kim Carrigan, Apr 1982.

1. 23. Ascend the face and overhanging groove, past four U-anchors. 2. 20. Climb the easier ground above on somewhat less secure rock.

M.Law, G.Child, 1979.

A rising traverse starting after the second U of Natural High. Follow the grooves right past Faceless, Bent Spoons and Training for Austin to finish up Exploding White Flys.

Marcel Jackson, Feb 1994.

This route takes a straight line up the steep slab (2 bolts) then overhanging wall (1 bolt) between Natural High and Bent Needles.

Marcel Jackson, Jul 1993.

Start at the bulge just right of Natural High. Ascend the bulge then follow the overhanging face above past two bolts (which make the original needles seem comparatively straight). Move left to finish at the first belay of Natural High.

Justin Kennedy, Oct 1984.

Climb the thin groove 2m right of Bent Needles.

Simon Parsons, Mar 1983.

Start on a distinctive overhanging corner. Six bolts and a chain.

Marcel Jackson, Jul 1993.

Start 2m right of Training for Austin. Scramble up loose ground to the first bolt, then continue up the line. Eight bolts.

Jon Tiller, Jan 1994.

Start 15m right of Exploding White Flies at the base of a flaky slab. Follow the bolts to the chain link (can be used as a belay) then more bolts to the top. Despite the fact that, for many years, this section of rock was written off as choss this route is excellent. It is destined to be very popular as, in the sub-twenty region, there are few quality clip-ups in Hobart.

John Tiller, Aug 1994.

Start 10m right of Futuo Lacettae in a chossy corner. Climb past five bolts. The top-rope chain (single bolt) for this route is accessible from the second tier which may help locating this one.

Jon Tiller, 1996.

About 10m along the right wall is a nice easy leftwards trending corner.

A few meters further along the wall is a shallow groove. Follow this up, finishing either up the corner to the left or the face on the right.

Start as for Solid State. After clipping the second bolt, move out left, up the line of weakness to a bolt. Continue straight up to finish.

D.Grey, Apr 1996.

A few metres right of Rock n Roll is another groove. Climb the wall/groove past four U-anchors. Easier ground leads to the top.

Simon Parsons, Mar 1983.

Several variants exist on the black wall right of Solid State (bring your own key-hole hangers).

Jon Tiller provided the steel

Starts from a ledge two metres above the ground. Bolts need key-hole hangers.

Jon Tiller, Oct 1996.

The arête and face left of Hair Lip. One bolt.

This is the obvious crack which winds its way up the face. Climb the slab to the overhang, then follow the crack to the top. Good natural pro.

Climb the line of weakness 2m right of Hair Lip. Good series of balancy moves. Commonly soled in the 80s by various students in Peter Jacksons climbing school, gear is available in horizontal.

Start 2m right of the big blue "A". Climb up through the broken face to the flake. Traverse to the left 4m to the overhang. Pull up directly through this (crux) then finish easily.

Climb the line of bolts (key-hole hanger required for first) to a chain. The crux is between the third and fourth bolts.

Jon Tiller, Sep 1996.

Start off the big block 2m right of Bombs Away. Ascend the broken groove tending rightwards, passing right of the overhang.

Climb up to the ledge then continue directly up. The crux is conquering the orange-tinged rock just above the ledge.

From the ledge, trend right then move back left at two-thirds height to follow the easiest possible route to the top. The cliff to the right is less stable than Nutgrove Beach on a windless day. Nevertheless, a few routes can be found.

The black slab-like feature on the right of the Upper Tier. At least four variants are possible.

The drill-line. Difficulty tends to vary week to week depending on what rocks are currently on the climb.

Another two-stroke-powered gem from the choss-master. Starts approximately in the middle of the cliff, just R of "100" in yellow spray paint. Follow the bolts.

Update: this climb (and a large portion of the rock) were removed during road maintenance sometime in the late 2010s. You’ll be remembered fondly, Totally Unstable Choss Climb.

John Domeney, Aug 1993.